CDL Actuator Fun (1 Viewer)

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Which color wires behind the CDL switch are you using for this temp bypass? Wait, sounds like you're going straight to the CDL motor connection under the 80.
 
In my vehicle, somewhere between the CDL connector and the CDL dashboard switch, there is an open. I can no longer control the actuator using the dashboard control switch using the OEM wiring.

I bypassed the OEM internal wiring and now use a monetary switch to engage/disengage the center diff. I'll connect/integrate the OEM switch with the new wiring when I find some time.
Can you tell us how you did that? I want to wheel and can't get my CDL to engage.
 
Can you tell us how you did that? I want to wheel and can't get my CDL to engage.
Is it not engaging when you shift into low?

If not, can you hear the actuator “wining” or attempting to engage?

Reason I ask, is that I’ve had to take CDL actuator off and on a couple times due to the fact I wasn’t hearing any sound or attempt to actuate. I was getting the appropriate voltage at the right terminals if I recall, but the motor wouldn’t turn. Turns out it appeared to be binding on the shaft and didn’t have enough volts/amps to overcome the resistance. There’s a few vids on YouTube for bench testing that may help I’d how to test for your specific concern though.

Not sure that helps but just incase
 
Is it not engaging when you shift into low?

If not, can you hear the actuator “wining” or attempting to engage?

Reason I ask, is that I’ve had to take CDL actuator off and on a couple times due to the fact I wasn’t hearing any sound or attempt to actuate. I was getting the appropriate voltage at the right terminals if I recall, but the motor wouldn’t turn. Turns out it appeared to be binding on the shaft and didn’t have enough volts/amps to overcome the resistance. There’s a few vids on YouTube for bench testing that may help I’d how to test for your specific concern though.

Not sure that helps but just incase
Thanks I’ll check out the YouTube videos. I have a buddy helping me today as I wasn’t able to hear anything from the cab when working the switch.
 
Thanks I’ll check out the YouTube videos. I have a buddy helping me today as I wasn’t able to hear anything from the cab when working the switch.
There is also a relay behind the kick panel, driver side by ecu. You should hear a click in this relay. I troubleshooted mine. I believe the steps are online. Its fairly simple to test with a 9v battery.
 
I've determined that both my relay and actuator motor are bad. My switch on the dash results in the relay "clicking" but it never sends power down to the motor for operation. Used jumpers to try to run the actuator motor in either direction but it's seized. Found a used relay on Ebay for $50 and ordered it. I'll be pulling the actuator. Hoping to clean it and get it running. If not there are both cheap and OEM options. I'm curious why the OEM has a hole in the top of it by the wiring entry point and the cheap version does not. I believe the breather tube is visable in these images. I'm going to do whatever I can to seal up the electric motor housing.

Partsouq:
1705938196937.png


Ebay:
1705938219552.png


Side note: For me this is a result of getting stuck in deep salt water for 10 minutes. Not recommended! I will be inspecting the breather tube and suspect it's compromised and let in salt water. I had salt water in my transmission and believe it's the same compromised breather tube. I was able to change the fluid on the trail. I'll be running new breathers for this as well as the transfer case & transmission. Will probable run them all up the D pillar with my diff breather. This is a good thread. Check your breathers!
 
I've determined that both my relay and actuator motor are bad. My switch on the dash results in the relay "clicking" but it never sends power down to the motor for operation. Used jumpers to try to run the actuator motor in either direction but it's seized. Found a used relay on Ebay for $50 and ordered it. I'll be pulling the actuator. Hoping to clean it and get it running. If not there are both cheap and OEM options. I'm curious why the OEM has a hole in the top of it by the wiring entry point and the cheap version does not. I believe the breather tube is visable in these images. I'm going to do whatever I can to seal up the electric motor housing.

Partsouq:
View attachment 3539153

Ebay:
View attachment 3539154

Side note: For me this is a result of getting stuck in deep salt water for 10 minutes. Not recommended! I will be inspecting the breather tube and suspect it's compromised and let in salt water. I had salt water in my transmission and believe it's the same compromised breather tube. I was able to change the fluid on the trail. I'll be running new breathers for this as well as the transfer case & transmission. Will probable run them all up the D pillar with my diff breather. This is a good thread. Check your breathers!
They both have the hole, but this is not a CDL actuator, it is the one for the front differential
 

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