CDL actuator spinning only one way (1 Viewer)

[CriticalBill]

Hello everyone.

Few weeks ago I decided to engage CLD by moving stick to 4L just to see if it still working. After few hundred meters I moved from 4L to 4H but the diff and ABS light stays on. I lifted the car and unlocked diff by connecting 9v battery to actuator pin 2 and 3. After that I removed actuator from transfer case and opened. One coil on rotor was slightly burn up but actuator was still working . I couldn't open the wire clamps of the commutator so I ordered new one from Aliexpress and re winded whole rotor. Then I re assembled and adjusted everything. Tested with 9v and 12v battery and the actuator was working fine in both directions. Connected to the transfer case wire , pressed switch and actuator engages then pressed switch again and motor can't disengage.Not sure what else I can do .
If I had spare transfer care i could probably try to make manual cable conversion or the other option for now is to install separate on-off-on switch connected to actuator

Fuses 10A and 30A both are good
CDL relay I can hear click when moving stick from 4H to N to L4 and from L4 to N but I can't hear click from N to H4( I also tested relay and all terminals with multi-meter as described in FSM except there in no continuity between 6 and 7 even when reverse positive and negative leads). Bought new one from Partsouq and is the same
CDL switch is new and good
Center Diff Lock Indicator SW - good
Transfer L4 Position - good
Transfer Neutral Position SW - good
Viscous Coupler -good

 

[ppc]

@CriticalBill ,

The only relay activation will occur shifting into low range and deactivation when shifting out of low range, both actions driven via the 4LOW position sensor switch. There will be nothing happening when shifting into high range. There is no relay function related the the neutral position sensor switch. It only illuminates the AT/P dash light when the automatic transmission is in "Park" and the transfer is in Neutral as a warning that the vehicle can roll if the handbrake has not been set.

 

[mudgudgeon]

One coil on rotor was slightly burn up but actuator was still working

I cooked an actuator. It had one burnt coil. It worked on the bench with 12 volts, but put any load on it, it wouldn't move.

Time for a new actuator

 

[CriticalBill]

@CriticalBill ,

The only relay activation will occur shifting into low range and deactivation when shifting out of low range, both actions driven via the 4LOW position sensor switch. There will be nothing happening when shifting into high range. There is no relay function related the the neutral position sensor switch. It only illuminates the AT/P dash light when the automatic transmission is in "Park" and the transfer is in Neutral as a warning that the vehicle can roll if the handbrake has not been set.

Thank You Phil .
So thats what I don't understand. When I shift transfer lever to low range position, relay clicks, I can hear actuator working and locking TC both light on dash illuminate but when I move that lever to high range position nothing happens. Light still on actuator doesn't move.

 

[CriticalBill]

I cooked an actuator. It had one burnt coil. It worked on the bench with 12 volts, but put any load on it, it wouldn't move.

Time for a new actuator

Thank You Mudgudeon.
I can't see what can be wrong with this actuator. Its actually a pretty simple unit. Actuator was dry inside when I removed and opened and nothing was broken. One coil was slightly burn but apart that the unit was working either with 9 or 12 v
I replaced old commutator with new one , re winded motor with new copper wire and replaced 2 brushes.
I also tested pin 2 and 3 with brushes and pins 4,5,and 6 with this three metal tabs and there was continuity. Put new dielectric grease and connected to the car. and the result is the same. I can lock differential but I can't disengage. And its king a weird that this thing working only one way

 

[mudgudgeon]

Can you put power to the actuator directly? Bypass the factory harness and test it in the car?
If it works in the car when you power it directly, then you know your actuator is good. Then you are chasing a wiring issue, position switch issue, or relay issue.
If it doesn't work, then you need to look at the repairs you've done on the actuator again.