CCOT Quarter Panels: has anyone done thread on this? (1 Viewer)

[WaTrout88]

I don't know if this will help but I've attached 2 photos of my 78's stock quarters where they meet the crossmember. Note - with the sill removed they "fall" a bit and just touch the crossmember at the curves. Before, with the sill in place they just almost touched. The 4 body mounts at the sill/frame "push" the body/quarters up a bit off the crossmember with a tight fit.

I too am concerned about CCOT quality. Still up in the air on where to order my sill and a few other panels.

When I purchased my FJ40 the sill had already been replaced with 2X3 tube steel so I had no idea how the quarter panel was supposed to sit.

Does any have the distance from the top the rear crossmember to the top of the sill?

 

[BDSeff1fitty]

on the spot welds you drill out, i can tell there is some one the wheel well, what about the hard top, do you have to cut or are they also spot welds you can drill out?

can't decide between bud built, IPOR, or CCOT only positive on bud builts is they are thicker so should be stronger. got any recommendations?

 

[ehsankiani]

Amazing the amount of work put into this restoration. Over her it would be just take off the rusted piece off and spot welding the new panel in.
Lovely craftsmanship though. Impressive.
Ehsan

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Amazing the amount of work put into this restoration. Over her it would be just take off the rusted piece off and spot welding the new panel in.
Lovely craftsmanship though. Impressive.
Ehsan

It's not just one. It's just about EVERY cruiser over here.

Get Alex a steady supply of ready built body panels that can be spot welded on, and you'll see a very different story.

I sure hope you have 45 pickup body panels (for at least the cab tub) readily available here in about a year. The rust repair on my 45 makes what I've been doing on Dad's 40 (the one I have posted in this thread) look like child's play.

Dan

 

[WaTrout88]

Bed Replacment

Here are some pictures of the new flat bed installed and the two rear quarter panels. I used the 14ga for the bed and it seams to be pretty ridged and hopefully will toughen up after LineX. We had a local sheetmetal shop fab the two mounting piece beneath and the bed for around $200 bucks not bad compared to $600 from SOR.

 

[Trollhole]

I'm going to go out on a limb here. I think most of you are going to want to know how to grind the welds down on the seams.

Basically you use a cutoff grinder with a thick blade and grind parallel to the seam. lol

 

[KY Longhunter]

Are you sure you don't mean Perpendicular???

Har Har Har

p.s. where is Gusb with his excellent diagrams

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Dang, we did indeed lose GusB's diagram.

I'll repost my pics of the grinding bit....

Dan

 

[Gusb]

Re-post - I think the 1st one is what everyone's suggesting?

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Yes.

Totally option A.

Dan

 

[DanS HJ-45]

OK, here's a quick "before and after" series of grinding the weld down....

This if the left quarter panel, just beneath the door hinge area. You can see that the welds aren't the greatest, but workable.


Use GusBs option A above to remove almost all the metal, and then a 60 or 80 grit flap disk in the 4 1/2" grinder to finish it off. Take care to keep the grinder moving, and with very little pressure.


And here it is with a quick coat of primer just to show you how little body filler it will need (probably none).


Dan

 

[KY Longhunter]

Dan,

A friend recently suggested that I weld to my weld to avoid burn through.

Ive got my Lincoln welder on first setting A and wire speed turned up ~ 3 to 4 and still burns through if not careful.

Any other tips???

AR

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Welding to your weld isn't a bad idea if you've got thin metal and problems with burning through. When I have this problem, I go back a bit from the edge of the metal (where burning through is real easy) and basically run a weld bead parallel to the bead I really want to attach the two pieces of metal together. This weld bead sort of acts as a dam (you can put a dam on both sides of the joint too) to fill up.

Once it's filled, you then just grind it down and bob's your uncle!

The quarter panels were EASY to weld IMHO. Thick enough metal that I didn't have to do that at all. If you do burn through, I find it easier to go back to where you had a strong piece of metal and a weld bead, and then work a dam around the hole before you fill it all the way. When I weld, I make sure to never lay a new spot before the old one has at least stopped glowing completely.

I'll be playing with the 40 tomorrow, so I'll try to get some update pictures of the grinding....

I don't know about your Lincoln, but wire speed=amperage which roughly equals burn through. Try turning that down just a touch. As long as you still hear the "fizzling bacon" sound when you weld you're good. If you don't have enough current, the wire will feel "sticky" when you try to weld and you'll have an inconsistent metal puddle/bead.

Dan

 

[rutbeer]

Mmmmmm......bacon......

 

[BlackDiamond72]

Updates?

Great thread!

I'll be doing a rear sill and quarter repair later this year.....after building a pole barn.