Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
X3 ^^^^^
And it was painless to me .. got some extra hands and that was all I need .. lucky me .?
Caster Plate Install (read if you are going WTF and yelling) (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter dranven
- Start date
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X3 ^^^^^
And it was painless to me .. got some extra hands and that was all I need .. lucky me .?
^^^ Meh. Bandaid
Thanks for posting this.
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a lift, and it's good to know beforehand which parts of the job will go to my friendly neighborhood suspension shop
I set trucks up all the time without any vibrations from the drive line. You just need to know the constraints of the system and what not to do.
Thanks for posting this.
I'm close to pulling the trigger on a lift, and it's good to know beforehand which parts of the job will go to my friendly neighborhood suspension shop
You're probably better off doing it yourself with the guidance of the folks on this forum, or sending it to a Cruiser shop/mechanic. You'll be taking a risk sending it to your local shop that may or may not have any experience with these trucks.
Care to share the constraints and what not to do?
No reply?? I would have liked to see your views and take on this.
1. Your trans output shaft flange is point A.
2. Your pinion flange possition in relation to lift height is point B. (with correct caster).
These 2 points are fixed points at fixed lift height (with caster plates), and don't move. So I don't know what your talking about as to constraints and what not to do. If you installed a new Toyota shaft. You won't have any substantial vibrations (for while). But it's only a matter of time. As you haven't fixed anything, only post poned it.
The simple fact is... If you can't correct the pinion angles/location. The only thing you can do is stop it spinning.
If you have some re inventing the wheel knowledge. Please share.
1. Your trans output shaft flange is point A.
2. Your pinion flange possition in relation to lift height is point B. (with correct caster).
These 2 points are fixed points at fixed lift height (with caster plates), and don't move. So I don't know what your talking about as to constraints and what not to do. If you installed a new Toyota shaft. You won't have any substantial vibrations (for while). But it's only a matter of time. As you haven't fixed anything, only post poned it.
The simple fact is... If you can't correct the pinion angles/location. The only thing you can do is stop it spinning.
If you have some re inventing the wheel knowledge. Please share.
Here's what I mean.
Factory, its pretty close but angles are still off.
4" lift with correct caster (pinion angle doesn't change). The upper uni is now on much more angle, the lower still not much angle. The more angle means more pressure on the uni's. So 1 has alot of pressure and the other hasn't much at all. This is where your vibrations come from.
"IF" Toyota had built it as a parallel flange set up. This would mean equal angle to both uni's. No matter what lift height, solong as its within the uni's perimeters. And would not vibrate.
It's not rocket science. You have 2 choices. Build a new housing to fix it. Or buy a part time and stop it spinning. There are no real variables or magic solutions. Dc shafts don't work! There aren't any constraints and what "not to do". There are your 2 points and angles fixed for a given lift height.
The rear is an unequal 5 link (shorter upper arms). At 5" it's only out by 3 degrees which isn't a worry. If it where a equal 5 link (upper and lower arms the same length and parallel) it would not change at all no matter the lift.
Factory, its pretty close but angles are still off.
4" lift with correct caster (pinion angle doesn't change). The upper uni is now on much more angle, the lower still not much angle. The more angle means more pressure on the uni's. So 1 has alot of pressure and the other hasn't much at all. This is where your vibrations come from.
"IF" Toyota had built it as a parallel flange set up. This would mean equal angle to both uni's. No matter what lift height, solong as its within the uni's perimeters. And would not vibrate.
It's not rocket science. You have 2 choices. Build a new housing to fix it. Or buy a part time and stop it spinning. There are no real variables or magic solutions. Dc shafts don't work! There aren't any constraints and what "not to do". There are your 2 points and angles fixed for a given lift height.
The rear is an unequal 5 link (shorter upper arms). At 5" it's only out by 3 degrees which isn't a worry. If it where a equal 5 link (upper and lower arms the same length and parallel) it would not change at all no matter the lift.
This isn't broken back!
What ever you guys call it then. That's how is it. We don't use the broken back terminology. So a bit unformiliar.
The point is. That's what it is. Claiming to know what not to do and setting it up so there are no vibrations I'd bogus. The same with selling snake oil remedy dc shafts.
The point is. That's what it is. Claiming to know what not to do and setting it up so there are no vibrations I'd bogus. The same with selling snake oil remedy dc shafts.
Wow. Bad hair day.
Isn't the reality that there are several lifted 80's out there with DC drive shafts and castor correction plates/bushings running vibeless/disasterless?
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Wow. Bad hair day.
Isn't the reality that there are several lifted 80's out there with DC drive shafts and castor correction plates/bushings running vibeless/disasterless?
Yeah, lots of them.
But they're just using bandaids to fix the problem!
What is Vibeless?
I am so used to it now I did not know vibeless existed
I am so used to it now I did not know vibeless existed
^^^^
Would love a vibrating 80 full of cougars, meow;p
Would love a vibrating 80 full of cougars, meow;p
If I want vibs I lock my hubs
