Builds Car souq pickup (2 Viewers)

[ryanCA]

stunning

 

[Tennessee Jed]

That's the lick it's done with. Love the split rims.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I was very careful to reinstall everything to the same dimensions when I changed the tie-rod ends and, even though it's driving just fine, I was thinking it prudent to have the alignment checked. Pretty sure neither Toyota or any other shop would be able to pull up the alignment specs so do any of you have them? I don't have an FSM for this vehicle. Would it be the same as my '97 80 series? I know it's a very different vehicle but the front ends are very similar.

Also, the steering wheel is a few degrees off. I think you can adjust the steering wheel position with the Relay Rod without impacting anything else? Forgive my ignorance on this question. In the past I have just pulled the steering wheel to correct the orientation.

 

[Felde]

Here you go. This is from the Heavy Duty FSM 10/84 truh 1/90

Regarding the Steeringwheel:
Yes, can be done with the relay rod.
But I found it hard to really get the wheels straight before doing the correction, with all steering plsy and stuff...
Probably best to do it during the alignment when you can measure them to be straight. Other method is to have a real flat, not leaning road or parking lot, drive slowly, depress clutch & let steering go, and just let it coast to stop.
Good Luck Ralf

 

[cruiserdan]

Same specs as a 60/62.

 

[2fpower]

The way I have been successful in fixing the steering wheel being centered is that I drive the car, and put a piece of tape on the very top of the steering wheel where it currently is driving center of the road. Go back to the driveway (course rough driveway, not slick floor) with the steering wheel and that tape at the top position and with car on the ground, key in the on position, (so not locking the steering wheel), then I adjust the relay rod length. The rubber tires - wheels should not move, while the steering wheel will move. Just adjust the rod and watch your tape line move until the steering wheel is now in the correct position.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Shared a ferry ride with this 79 series camper conversion this morning. Ferry was leaving the Isle of Mull in Scotland. Older very nice Swiss couple from Geneva.

 

[ryanCA]

Shared a ferry ride with this 79 series camper conversion this morning. Ferry was leaving the Isle of Mull in Scotland. Older Swiss couple from Geneva.

View attachment 3630733

View attachment 3630734

wish we had those here

 

[Gun Runner 5]

I wonder if this is Toyota’s version of a DRL for the 79 Series.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I wonder if this is Toyota’s version of a DRL for the 79 Series. View attachment 3630847

I don’t think so. All the cars I see in Europe have their headlights on. Could be fog lights though .

 

[Gun Runner 5]

There is a small bulb inside the headlight housing, that when converted to LED, is very bright and at first glance appears as though the headlights are on.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

There is a small bulb inside the headlight housing, that when converted to LED, is very bright and at first glance appears as though the headlights are on.

Yes I know that. I should have been more specific and said that the daytime running lights emanate from the same location as the headlights.

 

[janyyc]

Continuing the hijack of this thread (sorry @WarDamnEagle) that’s a GCC standard and yes it’s some form of DRL.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Continuing the hijack of this thread (sorry @WarDamnEagle) that’s a GCC standard and yes it’s some form of DRL.

Interesting as I don’t see those lights on the KSA or UAE 79 series pickups. At least I never saw them in KSA in person and can’t find them on their 2024 models (on their respective websites).

 

[janyyc]

Interesting as I don’t see those lights on the KSA or UAE 79 series pickups. At least I never saw them in KSA in person and can’t find them on their 2024 models (on their respective websites).

You’re right. I mixed up some AliExpress offerings with standard. Too late here.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrvrRv8

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Father's Day present from the . Stock photo on the left but looks exactly like my pickup except for the camel and the Jordanian license plate. The photo on the right was taken by a friend on one of our desert outings west of Riyadh. A Saudi colleague offered to take us to his family camel farm to get an actual photo of a camel in our pickup but we could never get the timing right. The farm was also a few hours from Riyadh so it wasn't something we could do spur of the moment.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Loaded a pallet into the bed yesterday with my FJ55 transmission and transfer case. Parked it in the garage and the truck was running fine. Cranked it around noon today and noticed that it was idling funny. I went ahead and made the trip to the freight terminal, 40 miles each way, and every time I had to stop I had to keep my foot slightly on the accelerator. It's idling around 300 rpm, obviously way low, and the idle is very rough. Also the exhaust smells like it's running rich at idle. There's no other issue. It accelerates fine and maintains speed like it always has. As a reminder this is a 1FZ-F engine. This is the first issue I have had with the engine since buying the truck in 2019.

So all the vacuum lines look fine. In fact almost new. Not that it couldn't have a vacuum leak. I suppose it could also have a faulty VSV; there seems to be a few. My uneducated guess though is a stuck automatic choke. Not sure exactly how to diagnose or repair if that is the issue. Any suggestions appreciated as I don't have a FSM for a carbed 1FZ engine.

Here's a couple of pics. Engine bay is in really good shape for a GCC FZJ75.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

You have a vacuum leak. The usual suspects are the vacuum lines, the carburetor base and the intake manifold seal.

There are three vacuum lines that plug into the intake manifold. They are between the carburetor and the firewall, and they have a habit of getting loose, thus causing a leak. Check them first: if they are loose, put them back in.

Then check the rest of the lines, base and seal. Replace as necessary.

In old age, the accelerator cable plays tricks and needs periodic tightening. Sometimes this helps.

Hope this helps.




Juan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So just to follow up on this issue and to thank @JuanJ for his advice. The first thing I did was to try to find a vacuum leak with propane using an unlit propane torch. No luck with that technique at any of the vacuum lines. Then I bought some starting fluid and tried again. Still no bueno. I then went down an alternative path and started messing with the throttle cable. I eventually got the engine to not stumble but only by adjusting the cable to where the "idle" rpm was around 1100 or so. Obviously that's a bit high but I left it there and ordered a new throttle cable - just because.

Fast forward more than a month and yesterday I was out driving it for the first time in a while and the high idle at red lights was annoying. So I decided to adjust the cable so that the idle was back to a normal range. My thought was to try again to find a leak and/or convince myself to change the throttle cable. Well I got the idle back to 750 and although it doesn't sound absolutely perfect it's good enough that I can't tell if it's ever idled any smoother. Certainly the tachometer is holding very steady and when I had the issue it was bouncing all over the place and the engine would actually die on me occasionally.

So, not sure what the issue is, or was, but it appears to have corrected itself. Maybe some bad gas?

 

[Andrew S]

Usually there is an idle speed adjustment screw that sets the idle speed RPM. There should be a tiny amount of slack in the throttle cable when the linkage rests against the idle speed screw.
If the cable tension is being used to set the idle speed, that may be why your idle speed wanders around.
Maybe your idle speed screw fell out?