Build Car souq pickup

[WarDamnEagle]

Usually there is an idle speed adjustment screw that sets the idle speed RPM. There should be a tiny amount of slack in the throttle cable when the linkage rests against the idle speed screw.
If the cable tension is being used to set the idle speed, that may be why your idle speed wanders around.
Maybe your idle speed screw fell out?

No; it's there and yes, I was using the throttle cable to raise the idle as a temporary measure. There is a tiny bit of slack in the throttle cable now that I put it back more or less where it was. Because I was already messing with the cable, it was a lazy way to increase the idle to see if it would help with the stumbling. Once it did I just left it there until I felt like messing with the issue again.

 

[JuanJ]

So just to follow up on this issue and to thank @JuanJ for his advice. The first thing I did was to try to find a vacuum leak with propane using an unlit propane torch. No luck with that technique at any of the vacuum lines. Then I bought some starting fluid and tried again. Still no bueno. I then went down an alternative path and started messing with the throttle cable. I eventually got the engine to not stumble but only by adjusting the cable to where the "idle" rpm was around 1100 or so. Obviously that's a bit high but I left it there and ordered a new throttle cable - just because.

Fast forward more than a month and yesterday I was out driving it for the first time in a while and the high idle at red lights was annoying. So I decided to adjust the cable so that the idle was back to a normal range. My thought was to try again to find a leak and/or convince myself to change the throttle cable. Well I got the idle back to 750 and although it doesn't sound absolutely perfect it's good enough that I can't tell if it's ever idled any smoother. Certainly the tachometer is holding very steady and when I had the issue it was bouncing all over the place and the engine would actually die on me occasionally.

So, not sure what the issue is, or was, but it appears to have corrected itself. Maybe some bad gas?

Hello,

Thank you for your kind words.

750 rpm idle is good enough for the 1FZ engine.

The 1FZ-F engine can be sensitive to accelerator cable tension, even more so in old age.

Once the cable is tight enough, it is a good starting point to chase leaks or tune the carburetor.





Juan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Battery started going a few days ago so I decided to go ahead and replace it. The original batteries were either a 75D31L or a 48D26L, neither of which are known to the free world. I searched the forum and saw where Nolen had replaced one in a white FZJ75 but he didn't give the spec and I couldn't read anything from the photo. I also thought I needed the poles reversed for my pickup. After taking some measurements it was clear that the height was the critical dimension because the top clamp is bolted to the engine bay wall and has little to no flexibility in either direction. It measures out at 7 7/8" but I would think you could get by with something +1/8" to minus a 1/4" or so. The tray is ~7" x 13" so plenty of room and flexibility on width and length.

From the tables I found on the internet it appeared that a 34R would be perfect. Unfortunately I could only find AGM batteries in that group. I like AGM batteries but sometimes they don't work well in older vehicles so I opted to go old school. After spending at least an hour trying to find one that was just right, I decided to stop into one of the local parts houses with a tape measure. There aren't that many batteries that are reverse pole so I didn't have to measure many.

Came up with a Die Hard Gold 24F-6. Online it says it's 9" tall but that clearly includes the height of the terminals. In fact, that was a big issue looking online, different websites gave different dimensions for the same battery. Anyway, this battery is 7 7/8" tall, 10 3/4" long, and just under 7" wide. Fits really well and the clamp has plenty of room between the caps.

Just to help someone else's search in the future: FZJ75 Battery Size.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I have a 27F in that spot on my Troopy, looks similar.

Build Post in thread 'Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal'

Oct 9, 2020

One of my Costco Interstate batteries s*** the bed...had some slow starts over the past few weeks. Started monitoring it and it gave up a few days ago at 10.5 V. Right at 36 months, right at their rated warranty.

Bought a Duralast from Autozone, Group 27, I've had one of these in my 45 for a few years with no issues. The other Costco battery will probably die this winter, but I'm running it until it dies. Cleaned up terminals, and pulled old wiring out from my old converter too.

I was debating on getting a jumper solenoid so I can jump start myself from my house battery, or by one of...

• Owyhee Jackass

• 

 

[svsisu]

I have a 27F in that spot on my Troopy, looks similar.

Build Post in thread 'Owyhee J.A. BJ75 Troopy Journal'

Oct 9, 2020

One of my Costco Interstate batteries s*** the bed...had some slow starts over the past few weeks. Started monitoring it and it gave up a few days ago at 10.5 V. Right at 36 months, right at their rated warranty.

Bought a Duralast from Autozone, Group 27, I've had one of these in my 45 for a few years with no issues. The other Costco battery will probably die this winter, but I'm running it until it dies. Cleaned up terminals, and pulled old wiring out from my old converter too.

I was debating on getting a jumper solenoid so I can jump start myself from my house battery, or by one of...

• Owyhee Jackass

• 

I have an Interstate 27F in that spot as well, Napa also has branded 27F batteries. Larger capacity and bigger footprint than the 24F, but should fit in the FZJ75 battery tray assuming it's the same tray as is in the 24v 75 series diesels.

 

[coldtaco]

Have you tried Batteries Plus? That’s the only easy place I found both batteries, just not home to check the size. I used regular batteries but in my rig they started gassing after about 2yrs. Swapped them for agm ones and so far they are holding up well as far as I can tell.

 

[prwillard2]

Have you tried Batteries Plus? That’s the only easy place I found both batteries, just not home to check the size. I used regular batteries but in my rig they started gassing after about 2yrs. Swapped them for agm ones and so far they are holding up well as far as I can tell.

I run the AGM from batteries plus in my troopy. Believe it's a group 27 and just barely fits in my battery box.

 

[janyyc]

Here in Canada, can’t beat Costco for their battery warranty… 5 years on many batteries and then prorated to 8 years. If my battery lasts 5 years I’m already super thrilled.
Main battery in Troopy is a group 27, I used the 27M because the terminals are in the right spots.

 

[DrRock]

@WarDamnEagle thanks for the great details and information in this build thread. I recently acquired a 1992 FZJ75 and have been reviewing your thread for ideas and information.

 

[TreadingLight]

I run the AGM from batteries plus in my troopy. Believe it's a group 27 and just barely fits in my battery box.

Same here. I use the x2power 27m cuz I like the extra posts on the marine battery.

 

[DrRock]

Got everything installed except for the front section that attaches to the manifold. The manifold studs backed out so I decided to go ahead and get 4 new ones before I finish the installation. My 80 series FSM says to torque the nuts on those studs to 46 ft-lbf. Exhaust looks very similar so I assume that's a good value. It doesn't mention removing those studs and whether or not I should use loctite or something similar when installing said studs.

So, do you guys use anything on manifold exhaust studs to keep them in? Loctite 272 perhaps (high temp, high strength)?

Anyone need some exhaust parts for their FZJ75? Except for the muffler split/small holes the system is very solid. I hate to just toss these parts if someone can use them. Replacements are a pain in the wallet to source.

View attachment 3329666

Do you still have this available? I just found out I have a hole on the front section on the upstream side of that cannister that I assume is a cat?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Do you still have this available? I just found out I have a hole on the front section on the upstream side of that cannister that I assume is a cat?

No unfortunately it all went to scrap. Pretty sure that’s not a CAT. I think it’s a built in heat shield for the cab. The part number for the first section is 17410-61271. I got one from Partsouq sometime shortly before that post. Might still be available.