Builds Car souq pickup (1 Viewer)

[JuanJ]

Hello,

Before proceeding, keep in mind that the 1FZ-F's engine block is different from the 1FZ-FE. Senders and other components may bolt in the former but not in the latter.

The temperature sender goes where the leftmost arrow is. The next port, marked with the other arrow in the picture, remains unused in the 1FZ-F.

The No. 2 temperature detect switch goes where the circle is.

The 1FZ-F block has no provision for knock sensors, of which there are 2. They require an SST to remove, but that is another story.

As for the connector for the water temperature sender, the manuals I have at hand refer to it as W12, gray, 1 terminal. Alas, no part number. I will try to post an image from the manual later -my computer is not helping with that now. I think it is possible to get it from an electric parts supplier.

Last but not least, I think it is worth trying to clean the old connector. Dirt may have built up inside, preventing proper contact.

Hope this helps.





Juan

 

[2fpower]

This is where I found many of my connectors....

Ballenger Motorsports - High Performance Electronics

www.bmotorsports.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Hello,

Before proceeding, keep in mind that the 1FZ-F's engine block is different from the 1FZ-FE. Senders and other components may bolt in the former but not in the latter.

The temperature sender goes where the leftmost arrow is. The next port, marked with the other arrow in the picture, remains unused in the 1FZ-F.

The No. 2 temperature detect switch goes where the circle is.

The 1FZ-F block has no provision for knock sensors, of which there are 2. They require an SST to remove, but that is another story.

As for the connector for the water temperature sender, the manuals I have at hand refer to it as W12, gray, 1 terminal. Alas, no part number. I will try to post an image from the manual later -my computer is not helping with that now. I think it is possible to get it from an electric parts supplier.

Las but not least, I think it is worth trying to clean the old connector. Dirt may have built up inside, preventing proper contact.

Hope this helps.





Juan

Thanks so much Juan. At least my assumption on the sender and switch locations is correct. Unfortunately the connector on the temperature switch has been completely removed. Whoever did the "repair" used an insulated wire splice crimped on the harness side and slid over the bare prong on the switch side. When I get the new switch I will have a better idea of what the connector looks like. There are two No: 2 Temperature detect switches so I can always try to look at the connector on the second one which I think is at the back of the block. Does your manual reference anything for the switch regarding the connector? The switch looks very similar to the sender; could be the same connector on both.

Are you sure the circled hole isn't just a missing manifold bolt? Here's another pic...apologies as it's a bit "artistic"; somehow my phone was switched to black and white.

Thanks @2fpower , I will look at their website.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I'm guessing the connectors I need are somewhere in this document; having just looked through it. There has to be an easier way to look up the connector part number though? https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

 

[2fpower]

CONN-100849 should be the right one... sure looks like it. 90980-11428 toyota number. bottom right corner of the manual you posted.

 

[2fpower]

couple threads on topic.

What sensor is this? We broke the 1 way/wire connector

So when doing the inner manifold gaskets up top mechanic unplugged a connector which he called the VVT Cam sensor bank1. But I have called every place imaginable and I think he is mistaken on what sensor it is. It is a 1 way/wire pigtail in which he has stuck in the hole with out the clip until...

forum.ih8mud.com

Parts list for replacement connectors

Anyone that works on these trucks knows how the old factory connectors become brittle from age and have a tendency to break when they are being unplugged. Its typically the lock portion that breaks and isn't too big of an issue but depending on what kind of environment the truck has been in...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

CONN-100849 should be the right one... sure looks like it. 90980-11428 toyota number. bottom right corner of the manual you posted.


View attachment 2478346

I was leaning toward that one as well. Worth a shot; I'll see if I can find it locally. Thanks so much!

Any idea if the same connector works for the Temperature Switch No 2? I should have it in hand in a few days and can compare.

 

[2fpower]

I was leaning toward that one as well. Worth a shot; I'll see if I can find it locally. Thanks so much!

Any idea if the same connector works for the Temperature Switch No 2? I should have it in hand in a few days and can compare.

The second thread said this... is the other coolant switch 2 wire?

Alternator connector: 90980-11349
coolant one wire connector: 90980-11428
coolant two wire connector: 90980-10737
Throttle position connector: 90980-11150
Crank position connector: 90980-11162
Purge control solenoid connector: 90980-11156
Fuel injector connector x8: 90980-11153
Knock sensors x2: 90980-11166
Ignition coil connectors x8: 90980-11885

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The second thread said this... is the other coolant switch 2 wire?

No they are both 1 wire. That's from a 100 series forum so maybe they are two wire. I looked at a 1996 FZJ80 wiring diagram and it was a two wire as well. It would be so nice to find an FSM and EWD for this vehicle. I have them for my other Toyotas. Thanks again so much for the help. I will look at the switch when I get it and with any luck it will use the same connector.

 

[JuanJ]

Thanks so much Juan. At least my assumption on the sender and switch locations is correct. Unfortunately the connector on the temperature switch has been completely removed. Whoever did the "repair" used an insulated wire splice crimped on the harness side and slid over the bare prong on the switch side. When I get the new switch I will have a better idea of what the connector looks like. There are two No: 2 Temperature detect switches so I can always try to look at the connector on the second one which I think is at the back of the block. Does your manual reference anything for the switch regarding the connector? The switch looks very similar to the sender; could be the same connector on both.

Are you sure the circled hole isn't just a missing manifold bolt? Here's another pic...apologies as it's a bit "artistic"; somehow my phone was switched to black and white.

Thanks @2fpower , I will look at their website.

Hello,

I checked the manual again.

The circled hole is not a missing manifold bolt. It is an unused "port." I confirmed by inspecting my 73 Series' engine.

Regarding the connectors, I made a mistake. There are two:

1. Temperature sender, which you marked with the leftmost arrow. It uses the W1 connector. Part number should be 90980-11428.
2. Temperature switch, marked with the other arrow. It is intended for emissions control. It uses the W12 connector Part number should be 90980-11243.

Finally I managed to get a picture of the connectors. This is W1.

This is W12.

To confirm you need a W12 switch and connector, check the interior of your glove box. If there is an emissions control ECU in there, you do.

Your questions helped me to learn something new about the 1FZ-F. Thank you.

Hope this helps.






Juan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

@JuanJ that is fantastic information; thanks so much for taking the time to help. I haven't been able to find these locally; or at least the Toyota Saudi Arabia online parts website doesn't show them available and Partsouq also doesn't show them so I may have to get them in the US. I assume these are just the bodies without the terminal? If so then I'll just order them from Ballenger as they sell the Toyota bodies, wire seals, and terminals together. I think my terminal is fine on the sender but it looks like they clipped it off on the switch; need to verify that.

Thanks again @2fpower ; that's a handy website.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So just for posterity's sake, that document that I found, https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf , has a lot of useful information. I was able to figure out that both body part numbers use a sealed 2.3II F terminal. They also list a "repair wire" part number which would be part number 82998-12440 (tinned) or -12460 (gold plated). It appears that a repair wire includes the terminal but maybe not. Regardless I think I have enough information to get some parts assembled.

Edit: Just ordered some repair wires: 82998-12460. If the photo is correct that includes the terminal crimped on a ~12" pigtail with seal.

 

[Honger]

Do you have the Toyota OEM Wire Harness Repair Manual (RM1022E) in PDF? It's very handy for finding part numbers for the connectors and the repair wire leads (with crimped-on terminals). I was able to order many of them while I was over that way... and I've done it here at my local Toyota parts department as well. I just compare the size/shape to the diagrams and order up...

Some of the screenshots from @JuanJ and @2fpower appear to be from that manual.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Do you have the Toyota OEM Wire Harness Repair Manual (RM1022E) in PDF? It's very handy for finding part numbers for the connectors and the repair wire leads (with crimped-on terminals). I was able to order many of them while I was over that way... and I've done it here at my local Toyota parts department as well. I just compare the size/shape to the diagrams and order up...

Some of the screenshots from @JuanJ and @2fpower appear to be from that manual.

Yes, that's the manual that I linked above. Agree; very handy to have.

 

[Honger]

Yes, that's the manual that I linked above. Agree; very handy to have.

Doh! Missed that you linked it... so yeah, that has been the easiest way for me. Waterproof or non-waterproof, male or female, number of connectors... and then visually make your best guess and order the corresponding wire leads. So far it's worked well. But it takes some fishing...

 

[WarDamnEagle]

The circled hole is not a missing manifold bolt. It is an unused "port." I confirmed by inspecting my 73 Series' engine.

Juan

Are you really, really sure? Maybe it's the photo that I posted. I had already ordered some manifold bolts and one certainly fits in the hole. There are 10 bolts and 2 studs. I didn't try to count but this hole certainly goes through the manifold flange and looks like it should have a bolt in it. If not, it has one now!

I circled the bolt I installed in this photo. Was wondering if maybe the plug the arrow is pointing at is the unused sensor port?

I have the new temperature switch no 2. I'm going to wait to install it when I get the new harness side connectors in hand.

 

[Defuzer1]

My truck came with one key that fit the ignition and doors but not the locking gas cap or glovebox. I recently tried to get a new glovebox latch with lock but they are NLA. Mine works fine but it looks like someone put whiteout on it and wiped it off leaving white paint in the veining. The paint or whatever it is will not come off. Yes a minor thing I know. I realized a few days ago that you could get the NLA glovebox latch with lock if you bought a set of locks and keys. There are a few variations of this set still available. This one was just under $200 and includes the ignition cylinder, both doors, glovebox latch with lock, bed mounted spare tire lock, and two locking gas caps. The set comes with 3 keys and everything is keyed identical. At first I thought I was being a bit frivolous but by the time you get the locks changed on the gas cap and the glovebox you are probably 1/4 of the way there.

View attachment 2466774

you must have grabbed the last one lol.. ordered set from partsouq, refunded, out of stock now.

 

[JuanJ]

Are you really, really sure? Maybe it the photo that I posted. I had already ordered some manifold bolts and one certainly fits in the hole. There are 10 bolts and 2 studs. I didn't try to count but this hole certainly goes through the manifold flange and looks like it should have a bolt in it. If not, it has one now!

I circled the bolt I installed in this photo. Was wondering if maybe the plug the arrow is pointing at is the unused sensor port?

I have the new temperature switch no 2. I'm going to wait to install it when I get the new harness side connectors in hand.

Hello,

I was referring to the unused port. I was confused a bit with the photo but did check the manual; chances are I did not explain myself properly.

It is good that your manifold now has all the bolts it should.







Juan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Please stop buying all beautiful FZJ7* in this world before they become legal to import in Europe

you must have grabbed the last one lol.. ordered set from partsouq, refunded, out of stock now.

Sorry about that. Check some of the other sets. If you can get ignition, doors and glovebox that would be a good start.

Hello,

I was referring to the unused port. I was confused a bit with the photo but did check the manual; chances are I did not explain myself properly.

It is good that your manifold now has all the bolts it should.

Juan

Thanks Juan. My first photo wasn't very good which I assumed was mostly the issue. You have been a huge help getting the sensors and connectors identified and sorted. I really appreciate all the help.

 

[Bazz]

Finally I test fit the headliner and then pondered my options for some time before deciding how to glue this puppy down. At first I was thinking I need 2 more pairs of hands as I was considering gluing it all at once. I finally scrapped that idea and pulled up about a foot or so from one narrow end and glued that end down with the rest of the headliner in place. After letting it dry for a few minutes I pulled up the balance of the headliner and glued it down a foot or so at a time until I got it all down. It actually wasn't as hard as I presumed it was going to be. It's not perfect but I think it will do.

View attachment 2462046

View attachment 2462047

View attachment 2462048

Been watching your thread, great stuff. Ok, where did you get this headliner? I’ve been looking for that specific pattern but unable to find it anywhere - PN always says NLA, or anything similar just isn’t close enough to oem for my liking.