Builds Car souq pickup (1 Viewer)

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Finally I test fit the headliner and then pondered my options for some time before deciding how to glue this puppy down. At first I was thinking I need 2 more pairs of hands as I was considering gluing it all at once. I finally scrapped that idea and pulled up about a foot or so from one narrow end and glued that end down with the rest of the headliner in place. After letting it dry for a few minutes I pulled up the balance of the headliner and glued it down a foot or so at a time until I got it all down. It actually wasn't as hard as I presumed it was going to be. It's not perfect but I think it will do.

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Finished the Damplifier install on the doors late yesterday and put the doors back together. Installed new plastic covers with some Butyl Rubber tape I ordered from Second Skin Audio. Their roll of tape is 1/4" thick and 1/2" wide. I split 3' down the middle and stretched it as I installed and it was more than enough for both sides. Of all the things that are in reasonable shape on this vehicle I remain amazed that these door panels are in this condition after 26 years of desert life.

I started in the upper left hand corner and at first tried to just flatten the butyl but then got the hang of stretching it as I went along. This stuff goes a long way.

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Just got back from about a 10 mile round trip to the butcher. Wow. I'm not going to say it's the quietest truck on the planet but what a tremendous difference. You really don't hear any road noise. It's so quiet I really need some music. Unfortunately the Cassette in my AM/Cassette won't play a tape. Sounds like my next project; pun intended. :D
 
This is such an awesome build.
 
This is such an awesome build.

Thanks. It's been a lot of fun and has helped me keep my sanity. Makes me really appreciate running and driving "projects". Can't wait to put this one into the daily Publix run back home.
 
Did a few little PMs this morning. When I bought this truck last year they said it had just had the oil, plugs, etc. changed. The oil certainly looked like new oil on the dipstick and it ran like a top so the only thing I did was flush and refill the cooling system. I did order plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc. but never got around to even looking at what was in the truck. Wires at a glance looked more or less new; dusty but certainly in good shape. Decided to change the PCV valve and vent hoses as there was a bit of residue around the valve and while doing that noticed that the Yazaki plug wires had a 1994 date code on them. So what the hell, in went the new plugs, wires, etc. since I had them laying around anyway. Old plugs don't look too bad but I have no idea how long they've been installed. Maybe just a year or maybe a lot longer? They still gapped at 0.8mm and the electrodes looked fine. I didn't have any issue pulling the seal caps off the plug as can sometimes be a problem. IIRC there was one or two on my US 80 that didn't want to turn loose when I changed those plug wires a few years back. I used a little dielectric grease on them when I installed the new ones. Also no sign of oil in the spark plug tubes. Hopefully it stays that way.

I still want to change the belts but one was unavailable here for some reason. Wife is bringing it over with her when she comes next week. I also have every rubber hose for the cooling system. The ones in the truck look fine so I might hold off on that until I get it back to the US. Only other PM on my to do list is to change the diff fluid. Might wait and bring another 6 quarts of Redline Synthetic back with me at Christmas.

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My truck came with one key that fit the ignition and doors but not the locking gas cap or glovebox. I recently tried to get a new glovebox latch with lock but they are NLA. Mine works fine but it looks like someone put whiteout on it and wiped it off leaving white paint in the veining. The paint or whatever it is will not come off. Yes a minor thing I know. I realized a few days ago that you could get the NLA glovebox latch with lock if you bought a set of locks and keys. There are a few variations of this set still available. This one was just under $200 and includes the ignition cylinder, both doors, glovebox latch with lock, bed mounted spare tire lock, and two locking gas caps. The set comes with 3 keys and everything is keyed identical. At first I thought I was being a bit frivolous but by the time you get the locks changed on the gas cap and the glovebox you are probably 1/4 of the way there.

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Very interesting, you answered a question I had about the locking spare tire lock. We had some of these, but no key, so I was trying to figure out how I can get a key to work.... the answer is likely not going to happen.... so I will have to buy a new lock. Do you happen to have the old one with a key that works that you want to part ways with?
 
Very interesting, you answered a question I had about the locking spare tire lock. We had some of these, but no key, so I was trying to figure out how I can get a key to work.... the answer is likely not going to happen.... so I will have to buy a new lock. Do you happen to have the old one with a key that works that you want to part ways with?

Wish I did; I would send it to you. My truck didn't come with the aux tank so the spare is underneath. That means no bed mounted spare. I have acquired everything to bed mount a spare as I think these trucks just have to have a spare in the bed and will be using this lock for that.
 
There is a gasket between the carburetor and the air intake assembly (circled in photo). It doesn't show up on any of the parts diagrams that I have access to. Mine is OKish but would like to replace if I can get the part number.

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This is another one I came across, fully factory kit. Personally, I really like this color.

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Few more years and I should be able to bring one in for myself.

Cheers
I saw this little jewel in our compound today. Owner offered to sell it to me. If only it was 2038...

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I see that installing ill fitting ghetto wheels is a world wide pandemic.
 
There is a gasket between the carburetor and the air intake assembly (circled in photo). It doesn't show up on any of the parts diagrams that I have access to. Mine is OKish but would like to replace if I can get the part number.

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On my FJ75, the part number is 17848-61020, and still available. What's the diameter of the top of your carb? I'll measure the one on mine and if they are the same you could use that one. But like you, I can't see a part callout on ToyoDIY for anything to fit there on your truck...

I just picked up a 1992 FZJ75 Troopy... looked up parts for that and same thing, with the Carb'd 1FZ, I can't find a gasket to go there.
 
On my FJ75, the part number is 17848-61020, and still available. What's the diameter of the top of your carb? I'll measure the one on mine and if they are the same you could use that one. But like you, I can't see a part callout on ToyoDIY for anything to fit there on your truck...

I just picked up a 1992 FZJ75 Troopy... looked up parts for that and same thing, with the Carb'd 1FZ, I can't find a gasket to go there.

Dark thirty over here. I'll measure it tomorrow. Guessing it will work. Thanks!
 
yep...not sure why your post showed up in that quote.
The wheels you posted, and that brown 80 in general, is perfect.

Carry on.

FWIW, I never even looked at the rims on that 76. I was too infatuated with the rest of it.
 
There is a gasket between the carburetor and the air intake assembly (circled in photo). It doesn't show up on any of the parts diagrams that I have access to. Mine is OKish but would like to replace if I can get the part number.

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Hello,

The intake duct changed for the 1FZ-F engine and features a built-in gasket. You may have to change the whole duct, or have the gasket fabricated; how to glue it in place might as well another story.

The bracket holding the accelerator cable looks like the one used with the 1HZ engine. There is provision for two brackets. One goes where yours is, and the other on the opposite side of the block. Part numbers are 78194-60030 and 78185-60030, respectively.

How good does the accelerator cable look?







Juan
 
On my FJ75, the part number is 17848-61020, and still available. What's the diameter of the top of your carb? I'll measure the one on mine and if they are the same you could use that one. But like you, I can't see a part callout on ToyoDIY for anything to fit there on your truck...

I just picked up a 1992 FZJ75 Troopy... looked up parts for that and same thing, with the Carb'd 1FZ, I can't find a gasket to go there.
Hello,

The intake duct changed for the 1FZ-F engine and features a built-in gasket. You may have to change the whole duct, or have the gasket fabricated; how to glue it in place might as well another story.

The bracket holding the accelerator cable looks like the one used with the 1HZ engine. There is provision for two brackets. One goes where yours is, and the other on the opposite side of the block. Part numbers are 78194-60030 and 78185-60030, respectively.

How good does the accelerator cable look?

Juan

I measure the OD of the carburetor where the gasket sits (ID of gasket) at 80mm. I didn't take the air intake housing completely off so I could be slightly inaccurate.

Juan, mine has a separate gasket unless the one I have came unglued from the intake housing. Doesn't look like it was ever glued. Mine is OK but always good to replace if it's cheap. Accelerator cable looks fine but then so did my 1994 Yazaki plug wires. Accelerator pedal operates very smoothly so I don't think there's any need to replace.
 

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