Builds Car souq pickup

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have someone looking at a hzj75 for me this week up in Jordan, following this build closely as what we have available has been rode hard and put up wet,.
 
have someone looking at a hzj75 for me this week up in Jordan, following this build closely as what we have available has been rode hard and put up wet,.

I got really lucky with this one. Of course I paid well above the average but most 25 yo 75s in the middle east are shot. Mine was owned by a large company and I suspect relegated to road duty around Riyadh for most of its life. So far it has not let me down.
 
I got really lucky with this one. Of course I paid well above the average but most 25 yo 75s in the middle east are shot. Mine was owned by a large company and I suspect relegated to road duty around Riyadh for most of its life. So far it has not let me down.
yeah, exactly. Older defenders are cheap here but all I have seen are huge piles. this HZJ used to be with Aus Embassy in Riyadh, but now is with a bedouin in Jordan, so hoping for the best. if it needs work, no biggie, I will just restore here and switch current 200 series for Hillux or something to cut down cost lol.
 
yeah, exactly. Older defenders are cheap here but all I have seen are huge piles. this HZJ used to be with Aus Embassy in Riyadh, but now is with a bedouin in Jordan, so hoping for the best. if it needs work, no biggie, I will just restore here and switch current 200 series for Hillux or something to cut down cost lol.

Is it RHD? I just don't see any diesel 75s in Saudi. Sounds special if it's LHD.
 
yes LHD. should have more info in next few days. kind of middle of nowhere between Amman and Aqaba. have requested photo of vin plate to verify.
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supposedly dual tanks, etc.
 
Between Georgia and Alabama we’ll soon be able to have our own Ute / pickup gathering. 😊
 
93 ish says 93 in add guy said 94 on phone sooo suspecting 4.11 rear and h55

Very cool. Those look like later model stripes but my only reference are the petrol models. Again, I haven't seen any diesels that old in KSA. The stripes are readily available from aftermarket suppliers so the stripes could be much newer than the truck.
 
yeah, knowing its in Bedouin land and seeing the paint, assuming its been painted at least once. the grille and bumper are in to good of shape to be in bedouin hands long. and the license plate is somewhat readable. haha.
 
How painful was putting the climate control arms back on? Thats the part I am dreading the most when it comes time to put mine back together.

Since today is my "Saturday" I was able to get a lot done without interruption. At least until some friends showed up about an hour before dark and that was that.

I finished scrubbing everything clean this morning and started reassembly. I found rather quickly that it goes back together much easier than it came apart. Maybe that's because I was clueless on the proper order for disassembly. I'm sure I'm not reassembling in the most efficient manner either but it's working and I feel a bit relieved that it will go back together. At some point I did decide to replace all of the foam seals on the ducts except for the large flat ones on the dampers. I will definitely go back in and replace those at some point but I couldn't find the material over here on short notice. Next door neighbor saved me again as he had just the right size of peel and stick foam as the local version of a hardware store was out. He's a bit of a motor head too, has several quad and dirt bikes that he and his children play with.

Here's a few photos of today's progress.

All scrubbed as best I could.

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And here's how far I got. I was struggling with the speedometer cable when the friends showed up. Have to tackle that in the morning and button everything else up.

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How painful was putting the climate control arms back on? Thats the part I am dreading the most when it comes time to put mine back together.

I didn’t take them off.

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Finally got around to changing the Transmission and Transfer Case oil today. Used the Redline Synthetic MT-90 that I brought back with me. Shifting seems smoother but it didn't solve my "can't get it to downshift from 3rd to 2nd most of the time" issue. It's only a problem when you are trying to maintain momentum climbing a dune and need to downshift to second. Otherwise it really isn't that big of a deal. I'm guessing it's a synchronizer although that's just through research as I know little to nothing about transmission internals.

I also went to a "Mobil 1" service center today to get the oil changed......all they had was 0W-40 in Mobil 1. Everything is a problem over here.
 
The Beast got a little 3M Crystalline 70 this morning. That should help keep the :princess: from getting too much tan.

Before, After, and in the shop respectively. Apologies my before and after photos suck. I should have backed it into the sunlight.

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I also went to a "Mobil 1" service center today to get the oil changed......all they had was 0W-40 in Mobil 1. Everything is a problem over here.

Well after some research in the 80 Forum (1FZ engines) and on Bob Is the Oil Guy, I decided my preconceived notion about 0W-40 was at best premature and perhaps more like misguided. I went back today and got it done. The guys working there had a hell of a time getting the oil filter off. After they told me proactively how to properly install an oil filter to prevent that from happening I felt like they knew what they were doing.
 
I think the seat foam pads for 75 series vehicles are NLA. At least it appears that they are all NLA. So for those of us that can't afford Scheel Mann seats I have been toying with the idea of buying early 79 series seat pads (e.g 2003 for example) and reusing my OEM covers. The 75 and early 79 seats looks identical to me. I'm sure they are not and I haven't compared them side by side but I think they might be close enough to be able to use the pads.

Below are the part numbers I have found. The only number I am a little unsure of is the RH seat bottom pad. There are two part numbers listed; one for bucket seats and one for bench. I think the number I have selected is correct but the description is not clear. The other part number listed is 71501-60021. Maybe @Onur could confirm that 71501-60150 is correct for the RH bench bottom pad?

So I am guessing that nobody has tried this substitution but thought I would throw it out to see if anyone had any facts, educated guesses, or even WAGs. :p

7150260041PAD, FRONT SEAT CUSHION, LH (FOR SEPARATE TYPE)
7150660011PAD, FRONT SEAT BACK, LH(FOR SEPARATE TYPE)
7150160150PAD, FRONT SEAT CUSHION, RH(FOR SEPARATE TYPE)
7150560040PAD, FRONT SEAT BACK, RH(FOR SEPARATE TYPE)
 
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So I am guessing that nobody has tried this substitution but thought I would throw it out to see if anyone had any facts, educated guesses, or even WAGs. :p

Hello,

I am guessing that this kind of substitution will become common as most parts become NLA.





Juan
 
Took my cab top off for the first time to put in some Damplifier Pro and a new headliner. Removal was easier than I thought, 13 9 small bolts and done (edit: I inadvertently removed 4 extra bolts). Removal of the old adhesive was another story. Scraping with a plastic spatula followed by carburetor/intake cleaner (only thing I could find with acetone) followed by more scraping with spatula, green scuff pad, and microfiber cloths. When I ran out of the intake cleaner I used most of a quart of lacquer thinner. It's interesting (in a bad way), nothing seems to dissolve this adhesive. You can get it to turn loose but then you more or less have to just let it ball up and remove it by hand (or pad or cloth). Nothing I want to do again anytime soon.

Here's a few progress shots starting with the original headliner. I took the opportunity while it was off to change the gasket. Old one was in OK shape but for $30 it's a no brainer.

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I had a pile of "widows and orphans" left over from my Damplifier floor and door install so I cut those up into small strips and kinda sorta filled up the grooves in the top. I then tried to just span the Damplifer sheets over those grooves but of course that wasn't perfect but I think it helped minimize the potential waves in the roof. If one was in no hurry whatsoever then it would probably be good to further fill those grooves with some spectrum sludge but I ultimately decided not to do that as I think you would need to let the spectrum dry for several days before you put the Damplifier sheets over it.

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