Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders? (2 Viewers)

[thecrazygreek]

SEM XXX Gun cleaner

Use this to clean your gun. DO NOT take apart your gun after every use. There is NO NEED if you clean with this thouroghly after using. Ask any pro they will tell you the same.

It's never a good idea to pull your gun apart.

Now if your just talking the tip and cap, then your good.

Heres the link SEM Products - Catalog - XXX GUN CLEANER

You will LOVE this stuff...

 

[Gusb]

Use this to clean your gun. DO NOT take apart your gun after every use. There is NO NEED ... It's never a good idea to pull your gun apart. Now if your just talking the tip and cap, then your good...

Thanks for the comments thecrazygreek - zero painting experience on my side so help is always appreciated.

I'm a little confused (as usual) . Are you saying to just flush the gun and don't pull the cap, needle, etc.? In this instance (primer on the FJ40) I'm going to use PPS cups, which saves me the hassle of cleaning the cup.

I thought the general process would be:
1) remove the PPS cup
2) with air connected - flush the gun with the thinner/squirt bottle
3) remove the air hose
4) remove the cap, fluid tip (wrench required) and needle
5) brush/squirt bottle clean all the parts/holes
6) air gun blow dry, few spots of grease and reassemble

Here's an action-packed video from the Sata website - maybe a bit over the top:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=TpVipYA2bUE

What's the (your) process with the SEM spray can product you posted? Sounds like the same type stuff ravenholm posted about earlier?

 

[DougAustinTx]

Every time I shoot catalyzed primer I take the needle out and clean it when I am through shooting. Otherwise, it will build up on the needle and pretty soon all you're getting is air out of the gun. Just spraying lacquer thinner after painting will not get rid of the residue on the needle. I guess it's the thickness of the primer that makes the difference.

 

[Gusb]

Every time I shoot catalyzed primer I take the needle out and clean it when I am through shooting. Otherwise, it will build up on the needle and pretty soon all you're getting is air out of the gun. Just spraying lacquer thinner after painting will not get rid of the residue on the needle. I guess it's the thickness of the primer that makes the difference.

That's what I've taken away from everything I've read and makes sense to me. Seems like the cavity around the needle would also hold in some paint?

 

[thecrazygreek]

If you can remove the needle without any other internals than your good to go. So needle, cap and tip are ok.
Having said that, using the XXX stuff cleans everything leaving nothing behind. I have gone in to confirm after shooting paint, or primer. I open up the gun after about 5 or 6 uses just to be sure.

The video you posted is great, and I would do that every few sesions just to be sure. In your situation I would go ahead and clean as you have planned to.
Anyhoo, it IS always good to be sure your gun is clean after every use.

 

[Gusb]

Got a little involved in making up a spray gun rack/holder. Rube Goldberg is alive and well.

 

[miker]

nice! I should make something like this myself. Anytime I'm mixing and pouring paint into a gun, I feel like I need 3 or 4 hands.

 

[Gusb]

Finally got a chance to try using the gun with epoxy primer.

Only thing I've had experience with is a rattle can - but from what I can tell this Sata is a great little gun. I even got a few spots that look perfect

Seeing my body work on the quarters under paint is a bit distressing though. I didn't expect the EP to fill sanding marks, etc. but the paint really does show up all the hiccups.

Got a good amount of air moving through the garage. Overspray was not as bad as I thought it might be. Biggest surprise was my little compressor did a great job pushing the gun - it even managed to catch-up while I continued to spray!

Overall a good learning experience and at least now I can spray some primer when I feel the need.

 

[thecrazygreek]

Nice work... Keep moving...

 

[Awl_TEQ]

I find spraying everything the same color, even just primer, really makes you feel like you have accomplished something after endless hours of metalwork.

 

[Gusb]

I find spraying everything the same color, even just primer, really makes you feel like you have accomplished something after endless hours of metalwork.

BTW Kevin - notice how much better my sill looks than the rest of my floor ;p

I held one of the ambulance doors up there the other day and the striker-mount indent seems to be right where it should be!

 

[Gusb]

Nice work... Keep moving...

Thanks Greek - if only I could knock them out as fast as you do

 

[Awl_TEQ]

BTW Kevin - notice how much better my sill looks than the rest of my floor ;p

I held one of the ambulance doors up there the other day and the striker-mount indent seems to be right where it should be!

Very good to hear!!

 

[1973barnfind]

Gus, I am truely jealous. I want all the cool gadgets and bank that you've put into your Fj40.
If I did, I would turn my back on the world for probably 6 months and play with my land cruiser

 

[Gusb]

Looks good - I thought this was one part I wouldn't need to replace.

That one side is almost rusted through the support arm. The new one will get a few drain holes with the rubber pad cut away under the holes.

Pads for the door mirrors have little drain cutouts - one of mine plugged up with dirt and caused some rust, the other was fine...

 

[Gusb]

Gus, I am truely jealous. I want all the cool gadgets and bank that you've put into your Fj40.
If I did, I would turn my back on the world for probably 6 months and play with my land cruiser

Thanks - but you might not want all the work I'm putting into it

 

[miker]

Nice work on the painting. Looks great!

I guess all the TOYOTA rear emblems I've had are from a later model 40 because I remember them being plastic, not metal. Bummer its rusted on the back side, looks great from the front.

 

[Gusb]

Nice work on the painting. Looks great!

I guess all the TOYOTA rear emblems I've had are from a later model 40 because I remember them being plastic, not metal. Bummer its rusted on the back side, looks great from the front.

Hi Mike,

The emblem/badge below (4 Wheel Drive) is plastic (with the red all faded away). Rusted backside nut/stud cracked the plastic when I removed it - where the stud was pressed in, so I replaced that one OEM (plastic too).

I had liked the nice aged patina on the metal one and wanted to use it - too bad (and more money down the cruiser hole)

I'm pumped about the painting - and thanks for all your helpful comments in the past. Had another visit from Canadian Jim a week or so ago and he also offered a few painting pointers. I think I can get better with a little practice. The gun was great adjusting the fan size moving around tight areas inside and the max fan area seems pretty big.

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Looks good! Keep it up! This thread is my inspirational body work thread. The one that keeps me believing that I CAN do it!

 

[Gusb]

Looks good! Keep it up! This thread is my inspirational body work thread. The one that keeps me believing that I CAN do it!

Thanks twoturtles - how did your rockers turn out - any progress?