- Thread starter
- #61
Vented gas cap should be all it needs. Of course if I'm missing something I'm open to some education.
Building the Lucky Dog
- Thread starter LuckyDog
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Vented gas cap should be all it needs. Of course if I'm missing something I'm open to some education.
- Thread starter
- #62
One more catch up post for today. End of October 2017.
1) Flared and bent a temporary fluid line for the trans so I can eventually start the engine and not pump trans fluid all over the place. I'll bend up some proper trans cooler lines at a later date
2) Found some interesting body work in a few places - filling holes with bondo - awesome
3) More
4) This one is special over the glovebox. Each hole was dimpled in and then a thin piece of aluminum was pop riveted in place. Then it was loaded up with bondo. I wonder how many more I will find...
5) More
1) Flared and bent a temporary fluid line for the trans so I can eventually start the engine and not pump trans fluid all over the place. I'll bend up some proper trans cooler lines at a later date
2) Found some interesting body work in a few places - filling holes with bondo - awesome
3) More
4) This one is special over the glovebox. Each hole was dimpled in and then a thin piece of aluminum was pop riveted in place. Then it was loaded up with bondo. I wonder how many more I will find...
5) More
That will work. Its not too hard to run the gm evap system if you did want to run it. I just wired and plumbed it on my ls swapped 80 series.
Cool build
- Thread starter
- #65
Cool. Can maybe point me to some info on what is takes to set it up? I have the solenoid and I can add the wires for it back in to the harness and comuputer easily enough.. Thx
- Thread starter
- #66
Thanks. Got a long way to go...
- Thread starter
- #68
Cool, thanks. I'll think about it but that means sourcing more parts - lol.
- Thread starter
- #69
This one will finish up October 2017
1) So many holes! Time to get the firewall cleaned up
2) Laying out the computer location
3) Locating the wire harness bulkhead connector holes. This is so it will be easier to service, add, subtract wires as well as sealing up the firewall.
4) More holes..
5) Connector fit check
1) So many holes! Time to get the firewall cleaned up
2) Laying out the computer location
3) Locating the wire harness bulkhead connector holes. This is so it will be easier to service, add, subtract wires as well as sealing up the firewall.
4) More holes..
5) Connector fit check
- Thread starter
- #70
November 2017
1) Progress in the firewall with plugging and welding all of the holes.
2) All done for the moment.
3) Time to start cutting, pinning, and fitting some wires.
4) Got a cool battery tray so of course the first thing to do is to modify it (makes it better, right?)
5) Added bracket tacked into place on the battery tray.
1) Progress in the firewall with plugging and welding all of the holes.
2) All done for the moment.
3) Time to start cutting, pinning, and fitting some wires.
4) Got a cool battery tray so of course the first thing to do is to modify it (makes it better, right?)
5) Added bracket tacked into place on the battery tray.
- Thread starter
- #71
Middle November 2017
1) Battery tray location on the firewall
2) Note the 4 holes in the lower support/firewall. These will be bulkhead fittings for the AC and heater lines
3) Made up a negative battery cable to go to the engine as well as the tub
4) Tub back on for more wiring work and of course fit check of the new add ons.
5) Alternator power wire built and routed
1) Battery tray location on the firewall
2) Note the 4 holes in the lower support/firewall. These will be bulkhead fittings for the AC and heater lines
3) Made up a negative battery cable to go to the engine as well as the tub
4) Tub back on for more wiring work and of course fit check of the new add ons.
5) Alternator power wire built and routed
- Thread starter
- #72
December 2017, almost caught up to the current year.
1) Started in on the AC system to work out the fit up under the dash.
2) Also started fixing the tunnel cover since it had poorer welds and lots of bondo to cover it up. It was easier to cut most of it out than to fix what was there
3) Welding in the patches
4) 2 out of three in place
5) Another area to work on. Got the cool bracket for the brake booster so that got a check fit too.
1) Started in on the AC system to work out the fit up under the dash.
2) Also started fixing the tunnel cover since it had poorer welds and lots of bondo to cover it up. It was easier to cut most of it out than to fix what was there
3) Welding in the patches
4) 2 out of three in place
5) Another area to work on. Got the cool bracket for the brake booster so that got a check fit too.
- Thread starter
- #73
Last 2 days of December 2017
1) Didn't like the way the booster mount sat on the firewall. Top is against a raised portion while the bottom is not. So I added a tab to pick up the lower raised portion of the firewall. This also provided a nice gap to make a rubber seal to keep water and dirt from entering the passenger compartment
2) Glass bead, hammer the parts back into shape and went with the Eastwood golden cad kit (first time using it). I wish it was a little bit lighter, but not bad.
3) Another adaptation, made a bracket to hold the twin stick shifter to the 6L80 trans
4) Another view of the adapter.
That's it for 2017....
1) Didn't like the way the booster mount sat on the firewall. Top is against a raised portion while the bottom is not. So I added a tab to pick up the lower raised portion of the firewall. This also provided a nice gap to make a rubber seal to keep water and dirt from entering the passenger compartment
2) Glass bead, hammer the parts back into shape and went with the Eastwood golden cad kit (first time using it). I wish it was a little bit lighter, but not bad.
3) Another adaptation, made a bracket to hold the twin stick shifter to the 6L80 trans
4) Another view of the adapter.
That's it for 2017....
- Thread starter
- #74
Almost caught up.. Early January, the work continues thought I seem to only get a couple of hours on most days.
1) With all of the holds welded up in the tunnel cover, it's time to make some new ones. Layout of the shifter and twin stick.
2) Check to make sure it all clears the AC unit. Had to adjust the shifter a bit as my guess was off by an inch or so. Good thing I didn't drill holes yet.
3) While I'm at it, need to make some clearance for the new gas pedal so those cardboard cereal boxes come in handy.
4) Transfer the shapes to some sheet metal and cut them out.
5) Then tack weld them into place. Ill leave them like this for the time being in case I need/decide to make change to
the layout later.
1) With all of the holds welded up in the tunnel cover, it's time to make some new ones. Layout of the shifter and twin stick.
2) Check to make sure it all clears the AC unit. Had to adjust the shifter a bit as my guess was off by an inch or so. Good thing I didn't drill holes yet.
3) While I'm at it, need to make some clearance for the new gas pedal so those cardboard cereal boxes come in handy.
4) Transfer the shapes to some sheet metal and cut them out.
5) Then tack weld them into place. Ill leave them like this for the time being in case I need/decide to make change to
Transmission tunnel looks good. Curious as to how you like the new ac kit and how it is to install.
- Thread starter
- #76
Mid-January, update
1) Eyeball fit of the new gas pedal (drive by wire). Fun part was the truck pedal was not a good fit so I got a late Camaro pedal but it didn't work. Turns out the wires are laid out differently. Once I got a schematic and repined the connector, it works the throttle body - yay.
2) Fabricated a little bracket for the pedal
3) Installed
4) Finally, one thing I can call 100% complete. The headlight assemblies are all put together. Hi beam, low beam, and halos. They are also wired so that when the high beams are used, the low beams will stay on too.
5) Ugly wiring mess that needs to be addressed.
1) Eyeball fit of the new gas pedal (drive by wire). Fun part was the truck pedal was not a good fit so I got a late Camaro pedal but it didn't work. Turns out the wires are laid out differently. Once I got a schematic and repined the connector, it works the throttle body - yay.
2) Fabricated a little bracket for the pedal
3) Installed
4) Finally, one thing I can call 100% complete. The headlight assemblies are all put together. Hi beam, low beam, and halos. They are also wired so that when the high beams are used, the low beams will stay on too.
5) Ugly wiring mess that needs to be addressed.
- Thread starter
- #77
I like the setup with the electronic controls, just plug and play instead of playing with cable controllers like I have on my 72 GMC. The kit is 68 through 83. Since mine's a 64, the install doesn't really follow the instructions and the holes and studs they reference to locate the unit aren't there.. Had to notch a support under the dash and I still need to reshape part of the dash by the driver to get the fit more to my liking.
Just got the condenser kit yesterday so now I'm looking at that install. Of course I need to modify things to fit. Main issue is that the 4 core radiator sticks out the front of the support be about 1/2 inch and the brackets for the condenser go straight across. More to come on that..
- Thread starter
- #78
Late January 2018. Almost back to real time updates.
1) One more shot of the AC. Have the AC and heater lines from the bulkhead fittings to the unit all mocked up and marked. They have since been crimped..
2) This one was a real mess. They had dimpled (bashed with a hammer) the hole and them drilled and dimpled four more holes so they could pop rivet a piece of aluminum to the bottom of the hole (inside the glove box). Then just bondo-ed it up. Yikes.
3) Got creative with my limited body tools and pulled it all back out
4) Welded a plug and the holes. Still need to sand the welds down and probably do a little more hammer work. But it's still better than before..
1) One more shot of the AC. Have the AC and heater lines from the bulkhead fittings to the unit all mocked up and marked. They have since been crimped..
2) This one was a real mess. They had dimpled (bashed with a hammer) the hole and them drilled and dimpled four more holes so they could pop rivet a piece of aluminum to the bottom of the hole (inside the glove box). Then just bondo-ed it up. Yikes.
3) Got creative with my limited body tools and pulled it all back out
4) Welded a plug and the holes. Still need to sand the welds down and probably do a little more hammer work. But it's still better than before..
- Thread starter
- #79
From Feb 1 2018. I think I'm finally caught up.
1) With the aux tank in the rear being the primary tank and deleting the under seat tankI wanted to keep some of the FJ40 styling so I'll be relocating the filler recess from the body from behind the door to behind the rear tire. Step 1, drill out the spot welds and remove the filler assembly
2) Make a patch for the big hole...
3) Disassemble the filler as grind off too many layers of paint.
4) The original filler neck came out at about a 40 degree angle while in the new location the filler is at 20 degrees. A little cut and weld work is needed to make this change. More on this later as I'm sidetracked again with the front end of the AC now that the condenser kit has arrived..
1) With the aux tank in the rear being the primary tank and deleting the under seat tankI wanted to keep some of the FJ40 styling so I'll be relocating the filler recess from the body from behind the door to behind the rear tire. Step 1, drill out the spot welds and remove the filler assembly
2) Make a patch for the big hole...
3) Disassemble the filler as grind off too many layers of paint.
4) The original filler neck came out at about a 40 degree angle while in the new location the filler is at 20 degrees. A little cut and weld work is needed to make this change. More on this later as I'm sidetracked again with the front end of the AC now that the condenser kit has arrived..
- Thread starter
- #80
Spent a good portion of the day yesterday working on the condenser installation. The brackets are actually pretty nice for a normal installation, just not mine. The brackets push the condenser about 1/2 inch forward away from the radiator but the 4 core already sticks out almost that much. No room to fit behind to bib and grille with that stackup.
What to do.... So I cut the brackets down to a net fit and added some spacers to get the radiator flush with the front of the support.
There is also a clearance issue with the top of the grille where it leans back just above the bib. So I have lowered the condenser and will need to trim the upper bracket where it would otherwise block radiator airflow. Also needed to tweak the inlet and outlet lines to clear the radiator support with the flush mounting. More cutting and fitting today. If I can get this to fit and clear the grille I can move on the line routing..
What to do.... So I cut the brackets down to a net fit and added some spacers to get the radiator flush with the front of the support.
There is also a clearance issue with the top of the grille where it leans back just above the bib. So I have lowered the condenser and will need to trim the upper bracket where it would otherwise block radiator airflow. Also needed to tweak the inlet and outlet lines to clear the radiator support with the flush mounting. More cutting and fitting today. If I can get this to fit and clear the grille I can move on the line routing..
