Building Bulletproof Axles (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Delancy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Why not 4"?
Wrench
One Bashed Up 80
Why not?
Because smaller is weaker, ceteris paribus. This is not the most difficult concept to understand.
A high pinion gearset is somewhat stronger going forward as compared to low pinion, but not strong enough to make up a nearly 20% size increase.
A high pinion gearset is somewhat stronger going forward as compared to low pinion, but not strong enough to make up a nearly 20% size increase.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
More material, thicker, more contact area per tooth, bigger bearings, carrier has MORE material. More leverage, less stress.
Which looks stronger?
These aren't Toyota gears but same point...
That ring gear on the left in the 2nd pic is a HP D60 9 3/4" ring gear next to a 14bolt's 10.5" ring gear.
- Thread starter
- #227
Finish this:
Full width 9.5" Ruff Stuff housings (69.5" WMS-WMS , 6" over)
HF Knuckles
Elocked, be it hybrid 80/100 (32spline side gears) diffs or 80, since 5.29s.
Keep wide and run 4.5" to 5" BS? Custom...everything.
Cut down to OE width? Swap OE innards over?
Full width 9.5" Ruff Stuff housings (69.5" WMS-WMS , 6" over)
HF Knuckles
Elocked, be it hybrid 80/100 (32spline side gears) diffs or 80, since 5.29s.
Keep wide and run 4.5" to 5" BS? Custom...everything.
Cut down to OE width? Swap OE innards over?
Under an 80, road going? Daily driver? Rock Donkey? clean body? what sized tires?
Why run these axles if you are going to use stock innards? What axles are in them now? Why Elocked?
Why run these axles if you are going to use stock innards? What axles are in them now? Why Elocked?
- Thread starter
- #229
37s-39s
Clean body.....and best of all worlds, literally, and without fail...this time.
Let's just assume you had 'em for another project that was pushed to the back burner and might be easier to link.
Why e locked? Let's say you got those two (too, pun intended) ....or three, for a spare.
Nothing in them now. Blank slate.
Clean body.....and best of all worlds, literally, and without fail...this time.
Let's just assume you had 'em for another project that was pushed to the back burner and might be easier to link.
Why e locked? Let's say you got those two (too, pun intended) ....or three, for a spare.
Nothing in them now. Blank slate.
Since the title is bullet proof:
Fullwidth
Front
RCV 30 spline superset for front
Cryo treated 4.88:1 9.5" front R&P
Highsteer knuckles
ARB front locker
Chromo drive flanges
Rear
Custom 300m shafts
Cryo treated 4.88:1 9.5" rear R&P
Gusseted housing
Detroit rear locker for 80/20 off road/road, ARB if 30/70 off road/road
Gears setup by Zuk
Fullwidth
Front
RCV 30 spline superset for front
Cryo treated 4.88:1 9.5" front R&P
Highsteer knuckles
ARB front locker
Chromo drive flanges
Rear
Custom 300m shafts
Cryo treated 4.88:1 9.5" rear R&P
Gusseted housing
Detroit rear locker for 80/20 off road/road, ARB if 30/70 off road/road
Gears setup by Zuk
69.5" rear would suck
- Thread starter
- #232
Why?
Assuming 100 diffs?
Why?
3" extra each side for outboarded coil overs.
(Not making the case for the width, but measure ten times, cut once)
Why 9.5" front and rear or why 4.88? I personally am not a huge fan of running the rear 9.5" up front but it is stronger than the stock front diff. For real bullet proof I would prefer to see a hi9. As for the 4.88, just because you're stuck between 37 and 39 and you want it to be steetable. If you get off the pot and just go 39's than go 5.29. I agree with the extra width, room to mount coils, more stability, more clearance, as long as you don't have fender laws...
- Thread starter
- #234
Have ran 5.29s with 37s for a couple of years, and haven't a bad thing to say about, from a highway speed perspective.
I assumed your 4.88 suggestion was for the 100/105 diffs, but understand now.
Am I stuck on 39s?
No, but diligently exploring all options, that particular one merely for a lesser stance without impacting clearance.
4" with 39s seems a logical consideration, compared to 5" with 37s, all things considered, but only if it could handle it. Think blueberry....with a lot of sheet metal removed.
Already have 37s, but fully intend for whatever/however/whenever this develops to be the final 80 "build", keeping fully streetable.
Don't know that the overhang is doable, but in the spirit of diligence, reason for posing.
I assumed your 4.88 suggestion was for the 100/105 diffs, but understand now.
Am I stuck on 39s?
No, but diligently exploring all options, that particular one merely for a lesser stance without impacting clearance.
4" with 39s seems a logical consideration, compared to 5" with 37s, all things considered, but only if it could handle it. Think blueberry....with a lot of sheet metal removed.
Already have 37s, but fully intend for whatever/however/whenever this develops to be the final 80 "build", keeping fully streetable.
Don't know that the overhang is doable, but in the spirit of diligence, reason for posing.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
With superflex radius arms
- Thread starter
- #236
Is that a question, or are you adding insult to injury?
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Can you EDM the side gears to a larger diameter and get custom inner shafts made? I believe those may be your weak link now. 30 spline isn't the tankiest stuff.
Every truck with 'full width' axles has a corresponding skinnier rear. Gm 69.5/67, dodge 67.5/65, ford 69.5/67...
Tighter steering radius. it seemed to help in all my builds except the 'silver bullet' Tacoma which was 72.5/72.5(and sucked balls in the tight stuff).
With Chromos you will probably see more broken pinions than broken axles.
- Thread starter
- #240
Now that makes perfect sense.
