Building Bulletproof Axles (1 Viewer)

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I've read countless threads.

I've spoke with most vendors in the business.

I've consulted with the Shaman.

Now, broaching the subject with the masses, because the time is here, and purpose of Mud and others like.

Basic Criteria

97 E-Locked

Current axles and Birf's are probably fine, so they'll make excellent spares.

Estimated 5-7k annual mileage, but a fair percentage at highway (75 mph) speed.

Assume 5.29 cryo'd

Marlin TC gears

37s

Not considering a part time kit, at this point.

Not doing D60s (addressing due to thread title. I realize nothing less is bulletproof, in all reality)

Already have all seals, gaskets, bearings for rebuild.

Would like to do it right the first time, and planning front and rear.

Hoping dialogue will facilitate a direction and an order.

I'm no expert and haven't slept at a Holiday Inn in months. Appreciate and and all input.

Chris
 
Another item that will help the discussion: what is the intended use for the truck? ie, general trail rig, rock crawler, etc?
 
If you are going to wheel this hard with 37's, pull the e-locker rear axle now, sell it and put a non e-locker axle in with an ARB. You will thank me later.

Landtank did some testing of machining part of the splines off to ensure the axle can be removed when it twisted. I don't know the outcome of that test. Might have missed it on here.
 
CruiseOrlando said:
Another item that will help the discussion: what is the intended use for the truck? ie, general trail rig, rock crawler, etc?

As much a crawler as a fat pig can be.

sleeoffroad said:
If you are going to wheel this hard with 37's, pull the e-locker rear axle now, sell it and put a non e-locker axle in with an ARB. You will thank me later.

Landtank did some testing of machining part of the splines off to ensure the axle can be removed when it twisted. I don't know the outcome of that test. Might have missed it on here.

Considering the amount of good, clean, actual 80s (that don't have an extra 140 holes in the body) I bypassed FOR elocked axles, couldn't be crappier news, but I knew it was coming.

I've read through Rick's thread on, but don't recall a conclusion, either. Going to ask.

Are the "new, improved" chromo's not capable of what's advertised?
 
As much a crawler as a fat pig can be.

Considering the amount of good, clean, actual 80s (that don't have an extra 140 holes in the body) I bypassed FOR elocked axles, couldn't be crappier news, but I knew it was coming.

I've read through Rick's thread on, but don't recall a conclusion, either. Going to ask.

Are the "new, improved" chromo's not capable of what's advertised?

Good news! I'll swap axles with you ;)

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
If you are going to wheel this hard with 37's, pull the e-locker rear axle now, sell it and put a non e-locker axle in with an ARB. You will thank me later.

Landtank did some testing of machining part of the splines off to ensure the axle can be removed when it twisted. I don't know the outcome of that test. Might have missed it on here.

Christo,
Please explain more as I am in this scenario (E-locked, 37's, & wheel hard). Is it a strength/durability issue?

Thanks,
Derrick
 
devildogcruiser25 said:
Good news! I'll swap axles with you ;)

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

I knew I should've prefaced with "keeping the e locked axles", because I knew someone would post something to question my original decision to buy elocked. ( again, countless thread perusals, countless post ).

Hadn't planned on that post coming from Slee.

I'm in too deep on the elocked, I think.

Maybe Mr. T had a master plan when e locking the 8" rear on the newer models, of it exploding before axle shafts broke.
 
mr jits said:
You'll twist the splines enough in the rear to eventually make it near impossible to engage/disengage and remove the axles if you're wheeling hard on 37's.

Is there an anticipated lifespan approach to proactively prevent?

If we're talking an inspection timeframe, would it be years?

Been my understanding on the another platform that crawl boxes assist in maintaining axles/diffs.
Is that the case here, too?

lumpy70 said:
If you engage him on the forum, he will be happy to go on about his plans for ULTIMATE axles.

Craig.

Will do. I don't venture much out of the 80 section because my driveways already full, and I don't need another addiction, right now.
 
Will do. I don't venture much out of the 80 section because my driveways already full, and I don't need another addiction, right now.

He's actually putting 80 series width axles on his BJ74.

Axles are one of his favorite topics on our local list.
 
I do not see Longfiled's on that list anywhere...

If you are worried about the rear axle twist with the e-locker look up Landtanks moded shaft thread I think he even has measurements used and needed.

Looking forward to see what you end up with for your bulletproof axles.
 
I know this is a little off topic; but what about 35's? Can my stock e-lockers handle the 315's without any upgrades? It will be wheeled rather hard. I havn't had any issues yet with that set up but I also don't want to snap something and be stranded on the trail.
 
Last edited:
Bullet proof axles gets expensive quick, you can't get really any stronger than the axles I have now, I have a good 6k in my front axle alone
Hybrid 9.5" front diff
Cryo'd 5.29 gears
Aussie locker
Nitro chromo birfs and shafts
Aisn hubs
Chromoly hub gears
Arp knuckle studs
Arp hub studs
Ruff stuff front diff cover


Rear axle has nitro 5.29's powertrax no slip locker
Pp rear chromoly shafts and arp hub studs
 
Bullet proof axles gets expensive quick, you can't get really any stronger than the axles I have now, I have a good 6k in my front axle alone
Hybrid 9.5" front diff
Cryo'd 5.29 gears
Aussie locker
Nitro chromo birfs and shafts
Aisn hubs
Chromoly hub gears
Arp knuckle studs
Arp hub studs
Ruff stuff front diff cover


Rear axle has nitro 5.29's powertrax no slip locker
Pp rear chromoly shafts and arp hub studs

Do you have a thread detailing the build of your front axle?
 
scottryana said:
If you are keeping the stock e-locked axles:

I am. May be contradictory to the thread title.

If swapping out any axles, it'd be to 60s, and not going down that path on an 80 build.

scottryana said:
Long field Super Set in the front, Poly Performance chromo rears, make sure you upgrade the hub studs and pins or you will sheer them off.

Ryan


Thanks for the definitive input.
 
May as well just run 1-tons :D


https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/190922-help-1-ton-axle-choice-fzj80-build.html

attachment.php
 
Delancy said:
I knew I should've prefaced with "keeping the e locked axles", because I knew someone would post something to question my original decision to buy elocked. ( again, countless thread perusals, countless post ).

Hadn't planned on that post coming from Slee.

I'm in too deep on the elocked, I think.

Maybe Mr. T had a master plan when e locking the 8" rear on the newer models, of it exploding before axle shafts broke.

You could always sell the e-locks as there are lays people looking.
 

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