Broken rear sway bar bolts. How to address? (1 Viewer)

[philip g]

Three of the four sway bar end link bracket bolts broke off in the frame. I guess I didn’t learn my lesson the first time

Previous threads in the subject suggest:

Beating them in until the welds on the nuts break (didn’t work)

Drilling and tapping (having a hard time getting the bit to bite)

Ez out (don’t have but I don’t see it working? Unless there are forward ez outs. I could drive the bolt in easier than backing it out I think)

Removing rear sway bar (strongly considering)

No one has mentioned welding the bracket. Since I have a 93 with Side brackets I’m contemplating this too.

Any suggestions/ideas?

 

[landtank]

Switch to under the frame mounts.

 

[philip g]

Switch to under the frame mounts.

I had not considered this. I don’t have access to a 95+ to look at

Are the holes already there?

Are the sway bars the same?

Are the end links the same? I’m guessing not since one is a side mount and one a bottom

That sounds like the easiest solution, I had not considered it thank you

 

[BILT4ME]

Three of the four sway bar end link bracket bolts broke off in the frame. I guess I didn’t learn my lesson the first time

Previous threads in the subject suggest:

Beating them in until the welds on the nuts break (didn’t work)

Drilling and tapping (having a hard time getting the bit to bite)

Ez out (don’t have but I don’t see it working? Unless there are forward ez outs. I could drive the bolt in easier than backing it out I think)

Removing rear sway bar (strongly considering)

No one has mentioned welding the bracket. Since I have a 93 with Side brackets I’m contemplating this too.

Any suggestions/ideas?

View attachment 3230561

Get a set of Cobalt drill bits and drill them out progressively until you can use an easy out or you reach the threads. Then rethread and install new bolts.

If you have a welder, you could try welding a nut the the tiny bit of a bolt there , but you will breaks it off five times before it comes out. Soak it in PB blaster and do the drilling thing.

If you have an O'Reilly's nearby, they carry a set of left hand drill bits (cobalt) and easy outs that work frily well.
Cobalt bits don't like to run high speed. Run them slow and let them cut.

Be patient.

Go to Landtank's website, as he sells the kits to change it over. No the holes are not already there.

 

[landtank]

The holes are there but not threaded. I sell a kit and boxed bracket to convert over to the under frame system. You would also need a different link which I also have. All this makes for a stronger setup

 

[lp2k]

@landtank you are sold out of them rear sway bar brackets >.< , when will you get more ?

 

[philip g]

Get a set of Cobalt drill bits and drill them out progressively until you can use an easy out or you reach the threads. Then rethread and install new bolts.

If you have a welder, you could try welding a nut the the tiny bit of a bolt there , but you will breaks it off five times before it comes out. Soak it in PB blaster and do the drilling thing.

If you have an O'Reilly's nearby, they carry a set of left hand drill bits (cobalt) and easy outs that work frily well.
Cobalt bits don't like to run high speed. Run them slow and let them cut.

Be patient.

Go to Landtank's website, as he sells the kits to change it over. No the holes are not already there.

Ever see a right hand thread easy out? If I can push it in and not have to pull the rusty bit through the nut it might be easier

 

[landtank]

@landtank you are sold out of them rear sway bar brackets >.< , when will you get more ?

They are at the platers. Anytime now.

 

[Pascoscout]

To get the drills started get a center punch and punch a mark into the center of the bolt. Do not use an ez out. Those bolts broke for a reason. All you are going to do is break that ez out off in the bolt and then you're really screwed. Once you get the first hole in (I'd probably start with 1/8") keep stepping the size up until most of the bolt is gone without touching the threads. Then you can use a pick, small punch and needle nose pliers to get the rest out. Run a thread chaser tap through the nut and you're good as new. Colbalt drills are best. You can pick up a set at Harbor Freight if you have one nearby for pretty cheap. Not the best but will get this job done.

 

[BILT4ME]

Ever see a right hand thread easy out? If I can push it in and not have to pull the rusty bit through the nut it might be easier

I have not seen a RH easy out.

 

[Malleus]

They're only available in Australia

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Get better bits, you can drill them out.

I'd vote to do what @landtank said

 

[jht3]

how i hate broken bolts. i've never had much success getting them out. i have one cross-member bolt that has been broken for awhile that i hit with pb blaster periodically.

i find it hard to start drilling on the bumpy exposed broken part. maybe that's where the center punch comes in

with the tips shared here, i feel a renewed sense of confidence. time to get a center punch and left-hand thread cobalt bits. i assume right hand (normal) thread bits are not what we want?

 

[lp2k]

Not trying to promote a brand but the snap on basic left hand cobalt bits and a decent drill set to left (loosen) has proved success. Not everyone will get on the truck and drop $70 for some bits but I can use ‘‘em and have them swapped out by my snap man

 

[BILT4ME]

how i hate broken bolts. i've never had much success getting them out. i have one cross-member bolt that has been broken for awhile that i hit with pb blaster periodically.

i find it hard to start drilling on the bumpy exposed broken part. maybe that's where the center punch comes in

with the tips shared here, i feel a renewed sense of confidence. time to get a center punch and left-hand thread cobalt bits. i assume right hand (normal) thread bits are not what we want?

Yes, you MUST center punch or you're just pissing in the wind. Then you must hold your drill straight (parallel to the bolt). Start small, work up one size at a time. be patient and drill slowly, not wide open on the trigger. Use lube on the drill bit while drilling.

I live in the Midwest and have learned well on how to extract broken rusty bolts. A Mapp Gas torch on those areas and cool with PB Blaster also help. Just don't start your truck on fire or melt wiring harnesses or find the leaks in your gas tank at that time.

 

[bigredmachine]

a right handed easy out will be difficult to find and probably expensive since it would be a specialty item for left handed bolts. try taking a look here Taps and Dies, Reamers & Milling Cutters | Tracy Tools Ltd UK - https://www.tracytools.com/ or McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/.

personally i wouldnt use an easy out, if the bolts are rusted in there your just going to break the easy out in the frame and youll hate your life after that. been there, done that and had a manager say "im glad im not you right now, good luck with that" and walk away

 

[stewtopia]

The holes are there but not threaded. I sell a kit and boxed bracket to convert over to the under frame system. You would also need a different link which I also have. All this makes for a stronger setup

I am in the same boat, can you let me know when you have them?

 

[landtank]

I am in the same boat, can you let me know when you have them?

arrived today, just updated the site.

 

[philip g]

arrived today, just updated the site.

The he extended links are good for 3” or so of lift?

 

[landtank]

The he extended links are good for 3” or so of lift?

yes they are.