breaking in springs? (1 Viewer)

[Xander77]

I have read a few posts about the need to break in new leaf springs if they are very stiff.
If new springs were installed and the shackles were way too tight so the springs were not flexing and they sat in a garage for about 20 years would they still need to be broke in? The springs only flexed about 1/2" when raising the wheels off the ground but after i loosened the shackle nuts i now have about 1.75" of movement. they still feel very stiff though so i am wondering if it will get better over time?

The shackle angle is only about 10* from vertical what should the proper angle be and how does one change it without replacing the springs?

Thanks For any Help!
Kirk

 

[B y r o n]

If it was my rig here is what I would do. Give the springs a good dose of a rust breaker of your choice. Apply it with the springs relaxed if you can which means jack stands under the frame. Let it work for a day and then retreat. After a couple of days set it back down and find a road that will cause the springs to work. If you can find a dirt road that a dozer has been over recently that would be perfect. Run the road a few times then find some ditches to cross that will flex the springs and suspension fully and run them a few times. What you want to do is break down any rust that may be welding the springs together so they will move as they should. Then clean off the springs as best you can and allow to dry before applying a penetrating lube to the springs.

You also want to pull the shackles and pins and clean and lube them before putting things back together. Now drive it and evaluate the ride. Take it over varying terrain and over several days. You may find the spring work good on one type of road or terrain and not so well over another. Then decide where it will be used most before deciding to make any changes. If changes are to be made you can worry about the shackle angles then and make any correction that may or may not be necessary.

 

[65swb45]

Paging @Biscuit. Have your Ironman springs settled down yet?

 

[Downey]

I don't really buy into the "springs must break-in" conversation, when you buy a new car does the dealer tell you the springs will break-in and the car will sit differently or ride differently once the springs break-in??? Downey had springs manufactured by NHK (Toyotas spring manufacturer), NHK educated us about the features that make a spring live a full life without premature fatigue or failure. Many aftermarket springs are made without the many features that let a spring live a full life because those smaller manufactures lack the money, equipment, or space to utilize the equipment necessary to utilize those features. Just saying.

 

[bikersmurf]

While I agree with your point Jim, not all of us can afford the price of new OEM type springs. The Ford E350 rear springs for my rig were $1000/side vs $450 per side. Ford wouldn't even stand behind their product which the smaller manufacturer would. Sure they've settled a 1/2" over the last year... but I'm sure Ford would settle some with 6000 lbs on them.

 

[Downey]

At the time NHK built Downey springs, we had 9 features, Rough Country had 7 of those features, Rancho had 3 of those features, and Burbank Spring (long, long gone) had zero of those features- - -and our NHK springs (made in Japan) cost us about 1/2 the best price we could get from a smaller spring manufacturer in America. Today Downey is gone, and many of those small spring manufacturers in America are still here, sooooo who knows???????

 

[65swb45]

Jim, be honest. Even the spring rate of the NHKs was over 30% stiffer than stock. They were a great spring, and I was very happy (and thankful to you for the opportunity) to sell them.

The spring rate was acceptable for the off road community that we were catering to at that time, with winches, bullbars, roof racks, aux tanks and the like. But it’s not the same with the resto crowd.

MAF tried to make something softer with Safari line, but that didn’t work out so well. My hunch is that durability suffered for comfort/ spring rate.

So in the long run, your choice in the NHK design was better. Not perfect, but better.

 

[Warloc]

When I purchased a 4 inch lift from a major FJ40 parts supplier I was told the springs needed to be broke in. In hindsight I should have walked out of the store, I didn’t because they sold so many lift kits so I bought it. That spring pack was bound tight with clamps and looked like they were dipped in paint so I installed them and began pounding the rocks. Long story short, they never broke in just got squeaky and always rode rough with hardly any articulation. When I finally had enough I bought another 4 inch spring set, this time looking at how the springs were made. I went with Skyjacker’s leaf springs. I’m surprised not to see them listed in previous posts here as they have been around for many years too.
These springs work, provide the claimed lift height, and are about 150 each. I’m sure that there are other springs out there that work, just beware that some will make your 40 ride like a tank and will never change by going down a bumpy road or banging curbs. Just my opinion

 

[1MOA]

At the time NHK built Downey springs, we had 9 features, Rough Country had 7 of those features, Rancho had 3 of those features, and Burbank Spring (long, long gone) had zero of those features- - -and our NHK springs (made in Japan) cost us about 1/2 the best price we could get from a smaller spring manufacturer in America. Today Downey is gone, and many of those small spring manufacturers in America are still here, sooooo who knows???????

Just out of mechanical curiosity what were/are the 9 features that were built inot the springs?

 

[Biscuit]

Paging @Biscuit. Have your Ironman springs settled down yet?

Not too much. Shakle angle is still close to vertical.

The spring rate was acceptable for the off road community that we were catering to at that time, with winches, bullbars, roof racks, aux tanks and the like. But it’s not the same with the resto crowd.

This is what I noticed. When doing the L.A. to Boulder drive fully loaded (tools, 10gal water, 10gal H20, some spare parts, and other heavy items) the 40 ride quality was really nice. Unloaded it a bit less comfortable. Note, I do not have an aux tank or a heavy tire carrier bumper.

 

[69LC]

I was going to use 60-series stock tear leaves to SOA my truck until I bent a spring with a tire against a tree. Without interest in a factory Resto I’m going to use well built links and coils instead. I’ll let the springs hold the weight, but not my axles...

My wife’s 80 with articulation-limiting radius arms sold me. That one will eventually be 3-linked as well.

 

[FF LC FREAK]

fully loaded (tools, 10gal water, 10gal H20, some spare parts, and other heavy items)

Don't forget about the 10 gal of dihydrogen monoxide that you packed as well...

 

[wngrog]

Go to Home Depot.

Pack the rear of your 40 tightly with bags of QuickCrete.

At 80# each you can get about 500# in there right over the axle.

Find a ditch and cross it back and forth at a 45 degree angle.

Go build a slab or return it.

Best leaf break in I’ve found.

 

[65swb45]

I was going to suggest this too. For the front, I discovered on one of my last trips to the Roundup making a delivery to @40Rock Perry that a full set of springs will nest nicely behind the front bumper across the frame rails.

 

[TCEd]

Leaf springs design and manufacturing includes materials used, metallurgy, heat treat and an error in any of these will cause problems. A person's error in selecting springs to install and how it is installed will also cause problems. Break in will not correct any manufacturing or installation errors.