Brakes Upgrade on '96 (1 Viewer)

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Nov 4, 2019
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LA, CA
While wheeling over the weekend at dusy-ershim, my front caliper decided to fall off somewhere at the middle of Thompson hill ... long story short, I'm looking into upgrading the brake system on my cruiser.

While searching, obviously few options came up (mainly old threads). However, one option that popped up - "upgrade to 100 series pads". Now, I'm trying to understand if it's just the pads, or calipers / rotors / booster / lines (any / or either) too? Also, is this solution applicable for both front and rear?

Note that cruiser also used to haul our travel trailer very often.

By the way - if by any chance there's a kit with all applicable parts, a link would be highly appreciated.

TIA
 
The 100 series pads do help, but not that much from what I’ve read.

Deleting the ABS and LSPV has good reports of increased braking. Add a Toyota T100 master cylinder to the delete.

Check @Broski build thread for his brake upgrade. Also check @jcardona1 for another option.

Both of them deleted the ABS, but used very different brake setups.
 
Hey mate,

I have already started looking at an upgrade for my Bus, and i know a popular brand in Australia for 4wd brake upgrades is Bendix. I have previously bought there rotors, shoes, and pads for my old 75 series and i was impressed with them. and will be buying them again in the near future. Hope this Helps.
 
Or you could do a Hydroboost conversion; best results for the $ by far !
 
The hype is using a set of 100 series pads in the front calipers on the 80.

I have run both and it may seem counterintuitive, but the larger pads of the 100 do the opposite of what you might think.

I don't recommend them. Go with Toyota parts or whatever brake flavor you want, but don't buy the cheap ceramic s*** at O'Reilly's.
 
The hype is using a set of 100 series pads in the front calipers on the 80.

I have run both and it may seem counterintuitive, but the larger pads of the 100 do the opposite of what you might think.

I don't recommend them. Go with Toyota parts or whatever brake flavor you want, but don't buy the cheap ceramic s*** at O'Reilly's.
I agree that putting in 100 series pads in a stock 80 series truck doesn’t make much if any difference. But that’s not what I’m doing with my kit.
 
I agree that putting in 100 series pads in a stock 80 series truck doesn’t make much if any difference. But that’s not what I’m doing with my kit.

^^^^^

I concur. 👍

I've been running 100 series pads on my 80 series (front) for about 15 years now and agree they do little if anything to 'improve' braking performance BUT they do last longer....which suits my purpose for them.
 
 
I went with a power stop kit. My calipers were fine so Just went with there pad & rotor kit.
I went with this because it had good reviews from other Muders and they bolt right up with no modifications.
I don’t want to be looking for custom parts or Machine work if I need to do repairs on the trail.
There definitely an improvement over stock,
I’m sure not as much as the landtank kit or what Jcardona1 has done !!
 
DBA T3 4000 discs, with Bendix 4WD pads, is what I run on both my 80's and my GU Patrol. Stock, post 1993, calipers and master cylinders on the 80's.
Although they're all lite weight, compared to some people's 4WD's, with 300(TB48DE) 440(1FZ-FE Turbo) and 600HP(LSA), I don't drive any of them easy and prior to covid, tow with them often.
I tried RDA's(DBA's main competition in Australia) version of the same stuff, about 18 months ago, on the Patrol and it ended in a brake pad fire, in the hills of southern NSW, while towing a 2500kg boat.
Back to DBA on everything.
 
I don’t want to be looking for custom parts or Machine work if I need to do repairs on the trail.
I agree

Besides wanting to fit 16" rims this was also one of my design criteria. My kit uses stock Toyota calipers and it could use stock Toyota pads if you wanted. Even though I don't include a Toyota MC you could use one but the one I include is easily sourced. The rotors could be considered custom but they can be easily sourced from multiple places. The really custom part is the rotor Hat, but that is not a wear item and should last a life time. While the hats are designed to be safety wired people have used Blue Loctite 242 on the bolts and that would definitely be ok in a pinch if it came to that.
 
X2 on post #9. I need to do another all out brake check on mine but got a 30' improvement 40-0 without really hitting the brakes all out on the test, that with adding about 50 lbs per corner and bumping up to 37's. I still haven't changed the master to the T100 yet even I'm so happy with the the caliper/ rotor change alone, If you stay on the cheap and go the minimum like the others on the post, it's really hard to beat that cost for the upgrade to the 4 runner calipers and I think you can retain the 16's possibly? jcardona1 did simplify it a bit and did something very similar.
 
The hype is using a set of 100 series pads in the front calipers on the 80.

I have run both and it may seem counterintuitive, but the larger pads of the 100 do the opposite of what you might think.

I don't recommend them. Go with Toyota parts or whatever brake flavor you want, but don't buy the cheap ceramic s*** at O'Reilly's.
Thank you the 100 pads are just a placebo and do not do anything, I am one day I will do the hydro boost since that is the best up grade
 
I agree

Besides wanting to fit 16" rims this was also one of my design criteria. My kit uses stock Toyota calipers and it could use stock Toyota pads if you wanted. Even though I don't include a Toyota MC you could use one but the one I include is easily sourced. The rotors could be considered custom but they can be easily sourced from multiple places. The really custom part is the rotor Hat, but that is not a wear item and should last a life time. While the hats are designed to be safety wired people have used Blue Loctite 242 on the bolts and that would definitely be ok in a pinch if it came to that.
Rick, I find and you offerings well thought out and designed and some have even found their way onto my rig.
 
I did brakes over the past year. I replaced the front calipers with NEW (not reman) Toyota calipers, and installed new brake hoses. After mixed results, I found the vacuum line from the intake to the booster was clogged. After a new booster and cleaning the vacuum intake port, the brakes work great!. I also have new rotors all around and Hawk LTS pads. No one item made a huge difference. With a 25+ year old system all of the parts were less than 100%. Rebuilding and replacing many of them made the system better overall.
 
^^^^this^^^^
I've been saying the same thing for years. Vehicle brakes are a system, not just a bunch of parts.
Mine are 100% OEM 80 Series and I can lock up 35s on dry pavement and activate ABS.
And brake fluid is supposed to be water clear, not black.
 
^^^^this^^^^
I've been saying the same thing for years. Vehicle brakes are a system, not just a bunch of parts.
Mine are 100% OEM 80 Series and I can lock up 35s on dry pavement and activate ABS.
And brake fluid is supposed to be water clear, not black.
Not sure if I have an issue but I certainly can’t get mine to activate the ABS in the dry. Braided stainless steel lines, Reman booster, new master, rotors and pads from slee (can’t recall the Australian company) and still not incredible.

In any case, I’m compiling parts now to pick up Landtank’s kit.
 
^^^^this^^^^
I've been saying the same thing for years. Vehicle brakes are a system, not just a bunch of parts.
Mine are 100% OEM 80 Series and I can lock up 35s on dry pavement and activate ABS.
And brake fluid is supposed to be water clear, not black.
What it is supposed to be clear not like black coffee :oops:
 
100 pads are about increased pad longevity. When I used 80 pads I was damn near 12k on the dot. Going the same exact price 100 pads nets me another 2-3k miles or more. At near 400k on my truck I’ve changed a LOT of brake pads.
 

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