POR stands for paint over rust, It actually sticks better to rust than bare metal.
Bow Tie Pig Restoration (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zeus0623
- Start date
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The grit of your flap disc is a bit too aggressive for just basic paint and rust removal. You run the risk of creating a lot of swirl marks in the metal. I'd opt for a stripper disc instead. It'll make your painted surface turn out much better in the end.
Amazon product ASIN B06WVBF5QV
Amazon product ASIN B06WVBF5QV
same same
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I use Aircraft paint stripper 
Beat me to it!
- Thread starter
- #106
Thanks for all the insight. I was thinking the flap disc was a bit aggressive, stripper it is!
Plan is to do a small section and immediately coat it with some kind of sealer that will ultimately take paint... am I on the right track? Don’t want to grind away rust and leave exposed metal.
Plan is to do a small section and immediately coat it with some kind of sealer that will ultimately take paint... am I on the right track? Don’t want to grind away rust and leave exposed metal.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Do the entire bumper. Just knock it smooth and hit it with a rust converter. Depending on the rust converter you can then come back and sand, prime and paint to your hearts content.
If you want to skip the rust converter you need to get all the rust. That’s more difficult.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Ah yiss....
- Thread starter
- #109
Another quick day on the Pig, taking care of some housekeeping. Trying to get down to a clean slate (finally). Washed off the mouse pee from the floor mats and pulled the back cargo panels and seat. Also, found some questionable wiring that lead to a no start situation, need to add that to the list of cleanup. Trying not to get overwhelmed looking at new holes I am finding. One step at a time, channeling my inner @wngrog and taking notes on his latest project. Hopefully mine is salvageable!
***Also, any suggestions with getting the back tailgate screws out? I already started to try and drill out the other side.
***Also, any suggestions with getting the back tailgate screws out? I already started to try and drill out the other side.
I had some luck welding a nut to the screw head. The heat from welding helps free up the screw and you can get a good bite with a wrench on the nut.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Impact driver may work...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
If not, go this route!
- Thread starter
- #113
Would JB Weld work? Haha. Fresh out of a welder.
@PabloCruise used the impact with no luck. I’ve also used a torch on it but didn’t seem to make a difference.
I don't think JB Weld will work, not strong enough. You might have to drill them like you started to do. Heat and that impact driver might work well, it's a good tool to have.
Yeah the torch is the way to go. I found that I needed it to heat longer than what I expected. Heat heat and then heat some more and use one of those hamer impact things. You know it twists as you beat on it with a hammer. Be careful when you hammer the body side. I hammered away and got them out, but on reassembly found out that I had hammered the whole body mount out so that I had to use shims to bring the opening back to the oridginal width. It makes me sad when I get surprises like that!
