As much as @OTRAMM s exhaust is pure sex, and worth every penny (especially with how the steel market is at present) I just can’t swing another $1900 + cat when my biggest goal is to get the cats out of the way of a proper set of weld on sliders.
Bolt on turbo kit
- Thread starter scottryana
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
As much as @OTRAMM s exhaust is pure sex, and worth every penny (especially with how the steel market is at present) I just can’t swing another $1900 + cat when my biggest goal is to get the cats out of the way of a proper set of weld on sliders.
You didn't get yours yet? Mine got shipped last month. Easy install and the power!!!!! OMG THE POWER!!!!!
Dear ALL, enough with the I/C talk and let the man finish the Turbo package so we can get this power show on the road. 
My new injectors, fuel pump, and EMS are on hold, I'll be going with an Air to Air setup when it is all said and done.
My new injectors, fuel pump, and EMS are on hold, I'll be going with an Air to Air setup when it is all said and done.
alia176
SILVER Star
Deal All,
Joey is in desperate need of a sponge bath. If you're within a ten mile radius, help a brother out.
Joey is in desperate need of a sponge bath. If you're within a ten mile radius, help a brother out.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Just to make sure everyone is fully aroused, I'll just drop this extreme close-up right here. Warning, NSFW!!!I will supply the wine, cigar, and sponge
looks like that thing was sucking fodJust to make sure everyone is fully aroused, I'll just drop this extreme close-up right here. Warning, NSFW!!!
Where does air to air work? Not in Texas.Dear ALL, enough with the I/C talk and let the man finish the Turbo package so we can get this power show on the road.
Back in my Volvo 240 Turbo days the air to air intercooler made a huge difference. The earlier models didn't come with one so I added one and even in hot weather the difference was very noticeable. Not sure how well this compares to the cruiser turbo project since these were low compression (7.5:1), higher boost (10-12psi) engines and had a lot of lag.
The intercooler was the same size as the radiator which is pretty big for a 2.1 liter engine.
I think air to air will work in most any environments since the air temps are cooling turbo temps which are significantly higher in any case. That said, if it is 120Deg. outside and we are comparing A2A and W2A the later will out perform, but I would think you're pretty even throughout the rest of the weather band. I will say that on the Rocks water to air will have its benefits. Truth be told, the use of real estate and reliability of an Air to air is what has me sold, that and I'll want the power at speed when volumes of air are moving across the intercooler. If someone sees a hole in my opinion I'd love to heard it, I am in no way claiming to be an expert on this subject.
maybe landcruiserphil will design a new fan bracket for the intercooler? phil, you listening?
I chose A/A for my project because there are no moving parts, no wires or pumps to potentially crap out (not that these things are unreliable or anything). I just like mechanical simplicity. And like you, I really got the turbo for highway performance, which is where an A/A intercooler is at peak efficiency. Only downside is it is a bit of a tetris game fitting the pipes and some accessories (winches, bumpers, etc) will block airflow.
I was a little quick with that response because it's so effing hot/humid here. I know the water/air exchanger is a bit more complicated, but it takes up less real estate and is more efficient. I just think that wheeling in warmer weather with air/air you could see elevated temps and no meaningful airflow and that's a bad combination.
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
A lack of area to mount an intercooler is why I went with water to air. The intercooler under the hood is simple and I used the better part of a 50’ roll of heater hose running along the frame to the heat exchanger mounted up high where the spare tire used to be. I used a 2.5 Gallon air tank, a B&M tranny cooler with ¾” hose fittings with Spal fan. Works very well. I often check temps with an IR Gun and the intake air seems to stay around 20 degrees over ambient, sometimes a little less. The run to the tank and back is long enough the fan has never come on and it has a sensor set at 120. That said, I'm in Phoenix and rarely wheel when it's much over 100 outside.
Have any pics of this system?
This is really interesting - WE WANT PHOTOS!
An advantage of the remote heat exchanger location is to completely de-couple the heat output of this one from the other ones already in the system.
Plus, the obvious one - no mods up front.
So - no pre-heating of ambient air entering the A/C condenser / engine coolant radiator, that is already taxed near it's limits.
(arguably, ad nauseum, this radiator, that radiator, pusher fans, bah, blah. Please, let's NOT
again here!)The point is - you don't bother it.
It seems that what you are saying is that the length of tubing itself, round trip all the way to the back, is enough of a heat exchanger to be effective.
Hmmm. OK, in that case, how about somewhat large diameter aluminum tubing, back and forth along both frame rails.
Fill any available underbody area with tubing.
Zig-zag where you can.
Jump over inconvenient routing locations with ordinary rubber heater hose.
It's a low pressure, low temperature system.
An upgrade - Half flatten/ripple the tubing to increase flow turbulence to increase heat exchanger efficiency.
- Low cost.
- DIY.
- Rugged.
- No fan.
Last edited:
FastCarGuy
SILVER Star
Get home tomorrow night. Will post some on Friday.
Just a quick comment on intercoolers from the peanut gallery:
GO AIR TO AIR
Details for anybody who wants them:
My old 5.9L Cummins that I built compound turbos for produced 55psi of manifold pressure on a regular basis. I retrofitted a 7.3L powerstroke air-to-air intercooler in there and also installed a 2 channel intake temp gauge with one thermocouple right before the IC and one right after. I NEVER ONCE saw intake temp (post IC) go more than 10*F above ambient air temp. Pre-IC temps at 55psi were over 400*F (limit of gauge so I don’t know how much over).
This air-to-air IC was supporting over 500hp.
On the Greenspeed Research landspeed truck (also 5.9L Cummins), we run TWO air-to-water ICs, one between turbo 1 and turbo 2, and one between turbo 2 and the intake manifold. This system supports anywhere between 800hp-1250hp and has a 90 gallon water tank in the bed of the truck that we fill with over 300 pounds of ice, then top with water. At the end of a successful 5 mile run, those 90 gallons are warm! Most important part of this is our data system shows intake manifold temp is, at best, 30*F above water temp. The only reason that works ok is because we use ice water.
The worst part of using air-to-water:
In 2016, the water pump stopped working for an unknown reason (best we could find was a possible bad ground) and the data logging system shows intake temp went from 60*F to 600*F. The next run, a course worker asked “is this wrist pin yours?” Not a question you ever want to hear from somebody walking up to you.
All this being said, at 10psi, you won’t be generating much heat. So if you are using an air-to-water and engine coolant, my guess (never had a gas turbo motor or seen data from one so I can’t say for sure) is you will most likely spend most, if not all, of your time heating the intake air. If you have a stand alone system, you run the risk of dropping a wire or something and losing all cooling.
Just a couple cents from a diesel guy.
GO AIR TO AIR
Details for anybody who wants them:
My old 5.9L Cummins that I built compound turbos for produced 55psi of manifold pressure on a regular basis. I retrofitted a 7.3L powerstroke air-to-air intercooler in there and also installed a 2 channel intake temp gauge with one thermocouple right before the IC and one right after. I NEVER ONCE saw intake temp (post IC) go more than 10*F above ambient air temp. Pre-IC temps at 55psi were over 400*F (limit of gauge so I don’t know how much over).
This air-to-air IC was supporting over 500hp.
On the Greenspeed Research landspeed truck (also 5.9L Cummins), we run TWO air-to-water ICs, one between turbo 1 and turbo 2, and one between turbo 2 and the intake manifold. This system supports anywhere between 800hp-1250hp and has a 90 gallon water tank in the bed of the truck that we fill with over 300 pounds of ice, then top with water. At the end of a successful 5 mile run, those 90 gallons are warm! Most important part of this is our data system shows intake manifold temp is, at best, 30*F above water temp. The only reason that works ok is because we use ice water.
The worst part of using air-to-water:
In 2016, the water pump stopped working for an unknown reason (best we could find was a possible bad ground) and the data logging system shows intake temp went from 60*F to 600*F. The next run, a course worker asked “is this wrist pin yours?” Not a question you ever want to hear from somebody walking up to you.
All this being said, at 10psi, you won’t be generating much heat. So if you are using an air-to-water and engine coolant, my guess (never had a gas turbo motor or seen data from one so I can’t say for sure) is you will most likely spend most, if not all, of your time heating the intake air. If you have a stand alone system, you run the risk of dropping a wire or something and losing all cooling.
Just a couple cents from a diesel guy.
Last edited:
alia176
SILVER Star
you have a gigantic res at 2.5 gallon + long hose run. Jeebus, that's a lot of fluid volume. Looking forward to pics but I wonder if you ought to start a new thread in order to prevent cluttering up this one? Just a thought.
