Bolt on turbo kit (1 Viewer)

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you have a gigantic res at 2.5 gallon + long hose run. Jeebus, that's a lot of fluid volume. Looking forward to pics but I wonder if you ought to start a new thread in order to prevent cluttering up this one? Just a thought.

Forgot I had these on my phone...no need for a new thread. I think this says it all. It's stand alone, I'm sure a smaller tank would work as well but had this sitting on a shelf.

Turbo shot1.jpg


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See, id rather hot pipe it and run wwf. (Windshield washer fluid, with 30% methenol). It’s usually cheaper than a/w and about half the packaging. Meth tank of about a gallon last a long while, but it’s another thing to remember to fill up and various intervals. Keeps lag and piping to absolute minimum.
 
See, id rather hot pipe it and run wwf. (Windshield washer fluid, with 30% methenol). It’s usually cheaper than a/w and about half the packaging. Meth tank of about a gallon last a long while, but it’s another thing to remember to fill up and various intervals. Keeps lag and piping to absolute minimum.

Each to their own....I use 1 gallon of antifreeze and then fill the rest with distilled water and I'm done... I think meth injection is it's own :worms:

I think Joey is trying to keep it simple and I am 100% for that.
 
What is the over/under on page count by the time the first kit is installed?

I am saying page 137.
 
Each to their own....I use 1 gallon of antifreeze and then fill the rest with distilled water and I'm done... I think meth injection is it's own :worms:

I think Joey is trying to keep it simple and I am 100% for that.

Simple is key. If it’s not simple than I’m building for five people. I can’t afford to build for five people.
 
Very different systems, talking about 55psi and 7psi, not to mention diesel trucks normally have much hotter IAT's than a gas engine.

At 55psi you are creating A LOT more heat.

Air to air is fine on-road, sucks when you are going slow and not moving any air, with A/W you still have a fan over the heat exchanger.

The rad/intercooler size on a cummins is about 1.5 times the size you could fit on an 80, and a landspeed truck is obviously going anywhere from say 10 to 21 (215mph) times faster than an 80 on an offroad two track.

If your 80 was never going to go offroad and was going to spend it's life on the highway air to air all the way, but comparing a 215mph diesel landspeed truck to an offroad 80 is a little like hammering nails with a wrench.

If all you could fit was an A/A you get some heat exchange at slow speeds just as a heat sink and that could be fine, but putting a bigger air blocking intercooler in front of the rad and ac condenser when people already have a tough time with overheating, when the option is a smaller heat exchanger and a pusher fan I went with the fan. Zero over heating issues....


Just a quick comment on intercoolers from the peanut gallery:


GO AIR TO AIR

Details for anybody who wants them:

My old 5.9L Cummins that I built compound turbos for produced 55psi of manifold pressure on a regular basis. I retrofitted a 7.3L powerstroke air-to-air intercooler in there and also installed a 2 channel intake temp gauge with one thermocouple right before the IC and one right after. I NEVER ONCE saw intake temp (post IC) go more than 10*F above ambient air temp. Pre-IC temps at 55psi were over 400*F (limit of gauge so I don’t know how much over).

This air-to-air IC was supporting over 500hp.

On the Greenspeed Research landspeed truck (also 5.9L Cummins), we run TWO air-to-water ICs, one between turbo 1 and turbo 2, and one between turbo 2 and the intake manifold. This system supports anywhere between 800hp-1250hp and has a 90 gallon water tank in the bed of the truck that we fill with over 300 pounds of ice, then top with water. At the end of a successful 5 mile run, those 90 gallons are warm! Most important part of this is our data system shows intake manifold temp is, at best, 30*F above water temp. The only reason that works ok is because we use ice water.

The worst part of using air-to-water:

In 2016, the water pump stopped working for an unknown reason (best we could find was a possible bad ground) and the data logging system shows intake temp went from 60*F to 600*F. The next run, a course worker asked “is this wrist pin yours?” Not a question you ever want to hear from somebody walking up to you.

All this being said, at 10psi, you won’t be generating much heat. So if you are using an air-to-water and engine coolant, my guess (never had a gas turbo motor or seen data from one so I can’t say for sure) is you will most likely spend most, if not all, of your time heating the intake air. If you have a stand alone system, you run the risk of dropping a wire or something and losing all cooling.

Just a couple cents from a diesel guy.
 
Very different systems, talking about 55psi and 7psi, not to mention diesel trucks normally have much hotter IAT's than a gas engine.

At 55psi you are creating A LOT more heat.

Air to air is fine on-road, sucks when you are going slow and not moving any air, with A/W you still have a fan over the heat exchanger.

The rad/intercooler size on a cummins is about 1.5 times the size you could fit on an 80, and a landspeed truck is obviously going anywhere from say 10 to 21 (215mph) times faster than an 80 on an offroad two track.

If your 80 was never going to go offroad and was going to spend it's life on the highway air to air all the way, but comparing a 215mph diesel landspeed truck to an offroad 80 is a little like hammering nails with a wrench.

If all you could fit was an A/A you get some heat exchange at slow speeds just as a heat sink and that could be fine, but putting a bigger air blocking intercooler in front of the rad and ac condenser when people already have a tough time with overheating, when the option is a smaller heat exchanger and a pusher fan I went with the fan. Zero over heating issues....

I think you are missing my point here (but I'm not sure?).

I'm not talking about anything but the efficiency of each system and giving examples of each in use. Boiled down:

air-to-air = charge air temps 10*F ABOVE ambient air temp
air-to-water = charge air temps 30* ABOVE heat exchanger water temp

This has absolutely nothing to do with the pressure going into the IC.

You will not be wheeling (driving slow) your rig in >130*F weather. That means your charge air temp (air going into engine) will likely never exceed 140*F with an air-to-air IC. Unless you're doing something weird like pushing air from the radiator over it.

You will not (sorry, laws of physics and all) be able to get the cooling water for an air-to-water system below ambient temp (unless you decide to get fancy and run your AC system through there and then we get into losses and efficiencies and how much extra power it takes to run THAT system and how much heat it's adding). Data shows that charge air temps will be 30*F ABOVE cooling water for this system. This means, at best ("ideal" situation, but not actually possible), you're going to be 30*F above ambient air, but way more likely to be 50-100*F above if not more.

I absolutely don't doubt you're not having overheating issues, I'm just claiming an air-to-air IC is better for this situation and backing up with empirical data. Packaging is always something that needs to be considered though, and if it's easier to put an air-to-water, then why the heck not.
 
That maybe your situation, but my temps are not 30* above water temps and I have seem a lot of A/A that are much higher than 10* over ambient.

Sorry you have not been able to get your intercooler systems to work but there is a lot more empirical data out there for each system than your single experience and both systems can be made to work well if done properly. In fact I could make either system work better or worse simply by sizing and component selection.


I think you are missing my point here (but I'm not sure?).

I'm not talking about anything but the efficiency of each system and giving examples of each in use. Boiled down:

air-to-air = charge air temps 10*F ABOVE ambient air temp
air-to-water = charge air temps 30* ABOVE heat exchanger water temp

This has absolutely nothing to do with the pressure going into the IC.

You will not be wheeling (driving slow) your rig in >130*F weather. That means your charge air temp (air going into engine) will likely never exceed 140*F with an air-to-air IC. Unless you're doing something weird like pushing air from the radiator over it.

You will not (sorry, laws of physics and all) be able to get the cooling water for an air-to-water system below ambient temp (unless you decide to get fancy and run your AC system through there and then we get into losses and efficiencies and how much extra power it takes to run THAT system and how much heat it's adding). Data shows that charge air temps will be 30*F ABOVE cooling water for this system. This means, at best ("ideal" situation, but not actually possible), you're going to be 30*F above ambient air, but way more likely to be 50-100*F above if not more.

I absolutely don't doubt you're not having overheating issues, I'm just claiming an air-to-air IC is better for this situation and backing up with empirical data. Packaging is always something that needs to be considered though, and if it's easier to put an air-to-water, then why the heck not.
 
That maybe your situation, but my temps are not 30* above water temps and I have seem a lot of A/A that are much higher than 10* over ambient.

Sorry you have not been able to get your intercooler systems to work but there is a lot more empirical data out there for each system than your single experience and both systems can be made to work well if done properly. In fact I could make either system work better or worse simply by sizing and component selection.

what is your intake temp at 7psi and 3000rpm?

where did you get "not been able to get your intercooler systems to work"? just curious because I think they have all worked great, and the numbers are backed up by our team engineers at Garrett/Honeywell.
 
Yesterday at 4200ft, ambient temp was 82f and intake air temp was 97f. And like you said if you wanted to add ice you could get that significantly colder than ambient and guys are using their AC to lower AW temps but I have not seen the need up to 18psi.

On a top speed truck, an on the hwy truck, even a racecar the road speed/hence the air speed will be high enough to transfer heat away from the A/A, on a slow offroad truck, pulling a trailer, etc. without a fan you simply have nothing more than a heatsink that blocks the AC and radiator.

So like I said your top speed diesel truck example is not apples to apples.

What does Toyota use on the TRD SC Tundra?

what is your intake temp at 7psi and 3000rpm?

where did you get "not been able to get your intercooler systems to work"? just curious because I think they have all worked great, and the numbers are backed up by our team engineers at Garrett/Honeywell.
 
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As much as I appreciate the dialog, we are not racing our trucks and this kit is not a race application turbo system at 5-6psi.

Ok, sorry to sidetrack the conversation here. I haven’t read all 80+ pages and don’t know if your kit is coming with air-to-water. I just saw the thread pop up and somebody was talking about the differences and wanted to add some info.

I apologize if I just ended up stirring up an old topic.
 

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