Builds Body work - fixing my '79 floors and other stuff (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter MOTOV8R
- Start date
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OlYellr
SILVER Star
Nice! - looks stout too
MOTOV8R
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- Thread starter
- #283
Props to metal-tech, they make some nice products. @helocat
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MOTOV8R,
I've read through the entire thread, and I enjoyed it greatly. Reading through it all in fairly quick succession it was interesting to watch your skill set get better and better as the thread progressed. I found your comments on aftermarket vs OEM parts helpful, though you are a lot kinder than I when the quality of an aftermarket part I've bought basically sucks. Whenever I read the absolutely BS phrase "Meets or exceeds OEM specs" my blood pressure rises appreciably.
There are a couple of topics that really piqued my interest, and I wonder if you could expound on them a bit.
- The first is the way you shifted the wheel well openings rearward due to the rear axle moving aft due to the spring flip. Could you explain how you patched-in the front and added the flange to both that area and the newly cut opening in the rear. Your method seemed to work very well!
- The second is the acetone smoothing of 3D printed parts. I Googled the topic and I found a decent explanation, but the lack of pictures made it confusing, You have a photo, but not a lot of explanation. Your results were awesome and I'd like to learn specifically how you did it.
I've read through the entire thread, and I enjoyed it greatly. Reading through it all in fairly quick succession it was interesting to watch your skill set get better and better as the thread progressed. I found your comments on aftermarket vs OEM parts helpful, though you are a lot kinder than I when the quality of an aftermarket part I've bought basically sucks. Whenever I read the absolutely BS phrase "Meets or exceeds OEM specs" my blood pressure rises appreciably.
There are a couple of topics that really piqued my interest, and I wonder if you could expound on them a bit.
- The first is the way you shifted the wheel well openings rearward due to the rear axle moving aft due to the spring flip. Could you explain how you patched-in the front and added the flange to both that area and the newly cut opening in the rear. Your method seemed to work very well!
- The second is the acetone smoothing of 3D printed parts. I Googled the topic and I found a decent explanation, but the lack of pictures made it confusing, You have a photo, but not a lot of explanation. Your results were awesome and I'd like to learn specifically how you did it.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #285
Hey Wasatch Jay, are you in Utah? We lived in Saratoga Springs for almost 8 years and occasionally hung out with the Wasatch Cruisers.
For the fender repairs I actually bought quater panel replacements, however the quality wasn’t great so I just cut them up to use as patch panels. They had the lip rolled in already so that is mostly how I did it. In a few places I had to make the lip. I just welded a straight piece on and then welded it from the backside as well. This made it thick enough so I could grind a rounded corner. The original fender line at the front edge of the fender still exists. You can see it from inside the fender well (pic). I just added a fill panel to extend it. I hoped this would help keep this panel more rigid. I used the dimensions from the patch panel to figure how big to make the wheel opening since the PO had removed all the lower rear part of the quarter panel (to be fair rust had taken most of it first).
For the acetone, I lightly soaked a blue paper shop towel in acetone and set it under the baking dish with the part and then just watched and waited. After a few minutes you can start to see some changes, starts looking glossier. You take it out when you think it has melted enough. The purpose of the baking sheet that the baking dish is sitting on is so that I didn’t damage our countertop. The painters tape was to help keep the acetone inside.
I don't know how the anti-inversion bolt would hit the frame during droop. Not my vehicle but mine are installed in the same orientation. This is the instructions I used to install mine.
Looking at the picture it appears your spring are installed in the wrong orientation. The short end should be attached to the fixed frame mount and the long end to the shackle. This may be leading to your issue with the anti-inversion shackles.
MOTOV8R,
Thank you for taking the time for such a detailed and helpful reply. I have two replacement quarter panels to harvest pieces from and seeing how successful you were is... motivating!
Yes, I live in Northern Utah. When I first got involved with FJ40s I reached out to Wasatch Cruisers via email a few times, and never heard back. Eventually, I took the hint and moved on to pursue other interests.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #291
I started working on the roll bar. Got the hoops tacked to the feet. Pretty straight forward, mostly made sure they were straight up with the angle finder and where I wanted them side to side and front to back. Today I got out the HF notcher out. Took a while to get it secured to the drill press and positioned so that it still moved freely. Then a took a shot at notching some tube. It actually went really well. Got a couple of tubes notched, including an angled piece. Need to do the other side and then I have 3 pieces across top.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Question/thought - factory roll bars have the notch at the base to secure seatbelt housing. While you're in there kind of thing (Assuming factory seat belts too). Here is a picture of one side of mine I need to install one day.
I think real steel makes a bracket you can weld on - their site is under construction - but that is what I remember when I was looking what do to with my 1980.
and ...
I think real steel makes a bracket you can weld on - their site is under construction - but that is what I remember when I was looking what do to with my 1980.
and ...
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Crappy pictures - but basically from base of roll bar to center of bolt is about 6.25" up. (this is for the seat belt housing).
The seatbelt attaches to the bracket bolts connecting the roll bars - I measures about 27 inches up.
and
The seatbelt attaches to the bracket bolts connecting the roll bars - I measures about 27 inches up.
and
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #295
That’s perfect! Thanks for getting these measurements. I found some mounts at metal-tech. Also cruiser solutions has some. Like you mentioned the real steel page is down. I may call them to see what they have.
Metal Tech FJ40 Land Cruiser Roll Cage Seat Belt Mount Set
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RevISK
SILVER Star
I was under the impression that Real Steel was toning down operations?
OlYellr
SILVER Star
They might be. Unfortunately I’m dealing with my memory from 18 months ago when I was looking at options. Lots-O-Beer since then
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #298
I was pondering the front bars for the cage and looked at what @Owyhee Jackass had done for his cage on his 45 that has wing windows. He pulled the bar back from the dash so I decided to do that. For the front mounts I again added some spacers to the feet so it doesn’t crush the floor raised areas. For the under side I made a plate that is about 1/2” bigger all around. I could also tie this plate into the frame if I want to later. I still have more support bars to add but making progress. Now some pictures for people like me that don’t read the posts.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #299
Made some more progress. Rear top bars, front cross bar and some braces for the front tubes. I still have to tack all those in. Then I will fit the seat belt mounts and add some gussets. I am thinking I will pay a pro to final weld it. I may have them weld most of it in place. I will see what they say.
I've got a trailer you can use if you need to transport it w/out the 40.
