Builds BluezClues Build '79 RN37 Pickup (2 Viewers)

[clx16]

Rebuilding the column took some doing. The upper bearings are serviceable if they are still packed with the 44 year old grease the lower one refused to yield and I had to break it to get it out. The new one isn't in yet so I guess I am done until that arrives

Adding in some part numbers for those who might be searching. including the substitution options too so you have more to search if you are wanting to replace them.

NSK

28BSC01

Toyota

9036328001

NSK

18BSC01

NSK

B18Z1B1C3

Toyota

9036318038

KOYO

DG1938AC3

 

[clx16]

Steering installed now just need an axle installed so just did an alignment just to keep things easy. Toe-in is set to 1.5mm.

 

[clx16]

Some how I managed to not have an accelerator peddle for this thing. I have the bracket (two actually) but I am likely going to have to try to find pictures and see if I can make the actual peddle portion. Been going slow on everything, got the 1980 FJ40 vented rotors mounted to the hubs and the 94 pickup/4runner calipers fit great. Had to order some more bolts though for the rotors as they were slightly too short from original, guessing the original rotor were thinner where they bolted to the hub. Won't be long before i mount the axle up to the leafs and then I can role this thing around better.

 

[aztoyman]

You've come a long way. Looking good and nice of you to post the part number info.

 

[WoodsTruck]

School me on the FJ rotor upgrade.

 

[clx16]

School me on the FJ rotor upgrade.

Well I was talking to @Box Rocket about his build and he informed me that because I have 79 wheel hubs which is 4351160021 that I can upgrade the rotors using FJ40 rotors from a 1980 model which are vented rotors in place of just solid disks. That would also require me to upgrade my calipers to minitruck calipers (1989-1994) s12w. If you have the 80-83 pickup hubs(some sources show 80 being the same as 79 so might be model specific on whether you got 79 or 80 hubs) 43502-60020 then I think you can get vented fj60 rotors (i am not 100% on that) and the later minitruck calipers. For me I am going up to the later master cylinder also and currently looking for a dual diaphragm booster from the following:

TOYOTA	4RUNNER	1986-1987
TOYOTA	PICKUP	1985-1988

If you do some searching you can find other forums talking about it, but Adam (Box Rocket) his thread is here where I first heard it mentioned using the FJ40 rotors, which is what I needed for mine. I later purchased some 83 axles and so have those hubs also but i already ordered my rotors so going to keep with that original plan just on the stronger axle.

 

[aztoyman]

I had an 86 4Runner and still have an 88 pickup and both came from the factory with single reservoir boosters. I got dual diaphragm boosters from 90's trucks.

I put T100 rotors and calipers on my 88 (with 85 straight front axle) which was a great upgrade but the dual diaphragm booster made the biggest noticeable difference. I think I got it from a 2nd gen 4Runner. I used the master cylinder that was on it as well.

Here's my old post on Marlin Crawler if you're interested. T100 Brake Upgrade - https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=77523.0

 

[aztoyman]

Just to add, the T100 brakes actually went on my truck when it was still IFS at the time of that post. AND it still fit when I did the SAS with the 85 axle. So a good upgrade for the IFS trucks too.

If you look up the various brake calipers and rotor swap/upgrades, these T100's have larger pistons than some of the other caliper swaps out there. The down side to these is that they are not a slip on rotor like the Tacoma and others.

I've been running these since my post in that link and only put on one set of pads and had the rotors turned in 2019. I might put them back on my current build if I end up not liking all the adaptations of the 2017 4Runner brakes I'm trying to fit.

 

[clx16]

Welp... a good while back i picked up some Toyota wheels with tires for 50 bucks and today wanted to get the truck back on all fours again but found out that they don't fit without rubbing the steering arms. and when i mean rubbing, they don't even turn before you even get the lug nuts on about half way. not in to spacers so I will see what I can find that will work. I had seen other peoples trucks with these wheels but I guess they were 16in wheels where mine are 15in.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I think the newer wheels will require spacers even if you had a set of 16's. I may be totally wrong, but that's what I keep seeing.

 

[clx16]

Not making fast progress but making some.

Finished getting brakes installed ended up using a skp SKBB041 dual diaphragm brake booster. Kinda clever with couplers. Rebuilt the LPV with parts from an 80 series LPV. Hopefully it works and doesn't leak. Got started on one fender and have another waiting. Going to weld up some of the holes that were left from some previous body work.

 

[G-Cat]

Solid front axle trucks can’t run any Toyota IFS wheels without spacers.

IFS trucks can (mostly) run both SFA and IFS Toyota wheels.

 

[clx16]

Solid front axle trucks can’t run any Toyota IFS wheels without spacers.

IFS trucks can (mostly) run both SFA and IFS Toyota wheels.

That makes sense. I just saw others running the wheels and assumed they didn't need spacers. I also tried my lx450 wheels and they don't clear either.

 

[gnob]

go to ifs hub and brake conversion

 

[clx16]

go to ifs hub and brake conversion

I could do that but I managed to find some original Steelies. At least I have the brakes upgraded

 

[clx16]

Starting on the filler/primer work. I need to decide on base/clear vs single stage. I imagine for single stage I need to be a bit more skilled to make it look good. Not much of a body guy but I would like this thing to look decent.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Are you going to spray any of it yourself?

We sprayed the 2-part epoxy after getting down to bare metal, then did the body work over that. Once it was ready for paint, the painter did another coat of epoxy primer and then a Valspar paint with clear.

 

[clx16]

Are you going to spray any of it yourself?

We sprayed the 2-part epoxy after getting down to bare metal, then did the body work over that. Once it was ready for paint, the painter did another coat of epoxy primer and then a Valspar paint with clear.

Yes I am doing all of it. In general I am going down to bare metal. Two part epoxy primer. Then I do filler in the few places that need a little. Using the 3m filler as I was told it is better than bondo. Then I epoxy primer over that before I start painting.

I've never done single stage but I like my 80 series being single stage so that seems attractive to me. I can say my base with 2k clear isnt flawless but it can be made prettier with wetsanding etc.

I probably should stick to what little I know best(not that i know a lot).

I know a professional would do a better job but I need to learn a lot.

 

[clx16]

Some more boring little things because I can't attack anything cool at the moment.

 

[clx16]

So working on the wiper arms that are under the cowl vents. I am going to have to figure out how to replace or repair that worn nylon cap that both holds the arm Eye and is greesed to pivot on the ball. Right now it doesn't hold the eye of the push arm.