Builds BluezClues Build '79 RN37 Pickup (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Anyone know where one might find a rebuild kit for the stock AC compressor? It might be fine but I have been rebuilding everything before putting back on the truck. Might try this kit but doesnt contain bearings Denso 6P127 and 6P148 Body Seal Kit MT2140 - https://www.shopcenturyautoair.com/store/p87/Denso_6P127_and_6P148_Body_Seal_Kit_MT2140.html

20220207_184145.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice build! Not surprised the original axle was bent, they were the only solid axle in those trucks that didn't have a gusset at all. Toyota remedied it with a half gusset from 1980-1983 and then a full one 1984-1985.

Not sure those are stock wheels - they look like old chevy steelies to me.

For the A/C compressor - is this your guy? 1980 Toyota Pickup SR5 2.2L A/C Compressor and Clutch (EG323) - https://www.rycompressors.com/shop/1980-toyota-pickup-eg323-313440.html?gclid=CjwKCAiA6Y2QBhAtEiwAGHybPcz3M26JQIS6MJuR5V1aGHLzVL-sEqGHc861qwJSoF0PFedcxsh5wxoCDRkQAvD_BwE
 
Yep those were Chevy slot mags and i gave them to a guy who's grandson is building out an S10.

Yeah that is the A/C unit i need but i did find sites that seem to have all the parts for rebuild i need to take it apart to make sure it is rebuild able and not rusted inside before ordering the parts. It should be 50 dollars in parts so drastically cheaper. I plan to try to document it so others can do the same. If i rebuild everything then there are many more chances of it being messed up...i like a good challenge!
 
I wonder if a compressor from a newer year could bolt up. From the fittings it looks like the one I have on my 85 4Runner. You can get those new.
 
Well the same compressor seems to have been put in some ford's all the way up to 93 so likely the same for a lot of years and models. I over paid already for the truck so i am trying to keep costs down from now on.
 
Not surprised the original axle was bent, they were the only solid axle in those trucks that didn't have a gusset at all. Toyota remedied it with a half gusset from 1980-1983 and then a full one 1984-1985.
I haven't tossed it yet, I won't be using it in this build since I already have a straight one to put in, but I have been tempted to give it a go later on to see if can straighten it and gusset it.
 
Got started on the power steering pump.
20220209_174922.jpg


20220209_180737.jpg

The Flow control valve cap that has a little snap-ring for removal. you will need to reuse the one there, as the one in the kit is the wrong profile and doesn't fit on the indented cap.
20220209_180741.jpg


20220209_182742.jpg


20220209_191845.jpg
 
Last edited:
Something about this pump matches none of my factory service manuals.

20220209_191913.jpg

The vanes are completely different that what I was expecting. These were by far more complicated than needed. I may consider grabbing a newer pump and rebuilding it just because this format does not seem like it would be nearly as efficient.
20220209_194759.jpg

Used some very sticky dielectric grease to get the little springs to stay in place. You need to make sure that you get these brackets in facing the correct directly. You can look inside the housing and see which side has wear marks for to show the direction.
20220209_201645.jpg


20220209_201700.jpg

Make sure you use this SST to compress the springs and be careful to slide both plates equally at the same time or you will be doing it over and over again.
20220209_201839.jpg


20220209_202020.jpg

This is what I was expecting to see which is the same style as what is used on the 80 series land cruiser pump that I rebuilt previously. Vane plates are a lot easier, but on the flip side you don't need any sort of press to get stuff back in like a large snap-ring.
20220209_204023.jpg

Here is a link to what I should have reviewed before hand from partsouq's website: https://partsouq.com/assets/tesseract/assets/global/TOYOTA00/source/MC/MC6163E.gif
 
Last edited:
Back together.

20220209_203654.jpg


20220209_203717.jpg
 
How many parts did you have left over? :rofl:

Ha none this time, but the snap ring that comes with the rebuild kit doesnt fit exactly right so you have to reuse the old one. Fortunately it wasn't rusted or stretched.
 
Distracted isn't the right word for it... slow is too fast... But I am still hammering away at things. I have my fingers crossed as I just put in an order for all toyota body mounts from partsouq. They didn't have any in for a long time and lately I have been finding things that were no longer available, showing up in their inventory again. Really wasn't looking forward to putting in poly body mount bushings so this has me pretty excited.
 
Today I rolled everything out to the driveway and went at them with oven cleaner, pressure washer, leaf blower, then degreaser, then pressure washer, then leaf blower again. Removed over a quarter inch of buildup from the trans tunnel and got a good start on much of the undercoating down to paint. I have a few areas in need of being addressed but grease has been keeping me from doing any of the little steps after work etc.

A lot of clay came out of the frame. I clear the clogged drain holes. My idea to run a rotating drain nozzle from my pressure washer down the framerails failed as there is no way to run it all the way down one rail. Did what i could using the access holes but i will have to find a way to spray and apply rust converter on the inside and then some sort of coating before i start painting the outside of the frame.

20220626_143841.jpg


20220626_143918.jpg


20220626_143933.jpg
 
Body mounts are in and internal frame coating also arrived on the same truck!

20220630_173952.jpg
 
Well for the outside of the frame I will be using KBS Coatings Black Satin Frame Coater Kit 57002 but I am going to use the Eastwood Internal frame coating (in green) which has these multi directional spray nozzles on 24" tubes to spray inside the frame. The frame doesn't have any bubble rust anywhere but still plan on using rust converter to get in all the little places I won't be able to get to via sand paper or wirewheel. I am also hoping that the eastwood will allow dirt and water to run out easier and that the drain holes in the frame won't get clogged up with mud and dirt. I cleaned a fair amount of Ga clay out of the frame in chunks. I know the truck was slated to be a rock crawler by the two previous owners so I am sure the truck saw at least a little mud before they spun the bearings on the 20r. The truck is going to be a daily driver for me but I don't want to spend a bunch of time working on the outside of the frame only to have the inside rust out on me.

 
Well it has been a bit more progress. Front part of the frame has been cleaned and coated, inside and out. Bottom of the cab cleaned and painted. That includes welding the rip from some driveshaft explosion in the past. Cut out some rust and replaced. Re seam sealer a bunch. Now to get the back and roof ready for primer and paint.

20220930_120231.jpg


20221004_161457.jpg


20221009_161737.jpg


20221014_173437.jpg
 
I have been replacing seam seal or adding here needed to various places using 3M grey but i am wondering what to use inside the roof gutter around the top and down the A-piller as that might be something that is supposed to be hard. It is hard to tell since it is so old everyone is hard and brittle.
 
Starting on the engine bay body work. I can't leave the holes there next to the battery tray. I also found another hole and not sure how i am going to fix it and paint/seal the repair after because if where it is at.

20221122_192651.jpg


20221122_215455.jpg


20221122_184603.jpg
 
It has been slow going but the hard to reach places have been epoxy primed, painted and clear coated so that I could get it back on the frame and off the dolly.

20230120_131731.jpg


20230119_172220.jpg


20230126_214320.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom