$250 ??!! That's more than I paid for my 80!!!
Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter landtank
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What’s wrong with the fan clutch you have?
You said "Is there a fan clutch (blue one?) I can buy that's ready to be installed" so $250 is the price for not reading the thread, not buying from amazon and not following the instructions in this thread to setup it up correctly. Rest of us cheap a$$es who didn't spend 250 bones for the fan clutch bought from amazon and followed the instructions in this thread. @landtank didn't have to provide the information on how to mod the fan clutch and sell the only ones that would work properly out of the box. I've see OEM fan clutch from the dealer that DID NOT have enough fluid.
Also a quick reminder that an 80 like my LX back in 1997 money cost 67k or around 120k today's money. All land cruisers are designed to have service life of 25 years even today's LCs so quality parts will not be cheap, if that's an issues then might want to sell the 80 and join the jeep crowd. They have a lot more lower cost options on jeeps.
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
That's great to know
@NLXTACY where was this five years ago when my oring was too long, and cutting it was a fail!
In the memory bank for later
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Or don't replace the fan hub, keep the $250 in your pocket, and save it for the head gasket job, or rebuild that's in your future
At $250, it's cheaper than a new OEM here, and if it's pre set and pre filled with fluid, it's better value, and a fair price IMO
That's great to know
@NLXTACY where was this five years ago when my oring was too long,
In the memory bank for later
@mudgudgeon Why and cutting it was a fail!?????
????
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
To be honest, I think I cut it a fraction too short. Lost all its CST oil in about a week
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Honestly one of the best bang per buck "mods" you can do to the truck. I have been thrilled with mine.Or don't replace the fan hub, keep the $250 in your pocket, and save it for the head gasket job, or rebuild that's in your future
At $250, it's cheaper than a new OEM here, and if it's pre set and pre filled with fluid, it's better value, and a fair price IMO
My fan clutch? Nothing. Course mine is a ‘94 and has the big transmission (doesn’t overheat like the ‘95 - ‘97s do), so.....
Asking for a friend. He has a ‘96 that was overheating weekend before last while we were off-roading. And to be fair, $250 is not that bad. I was just trying to joke around about how cheap my 80 was (less than $150 - no schitzki.)
DAMN!!!! Did you really paid less than $150 your 80?
Each of my DIY oil change cost at least $60, tank of gas was $100 at one point in time......and we are headed that way again!
COYS
SILVER Star
Yea, but you also have to subject yourself to sitting behind a Toyota Camry dash every. single. time.
Ha! My dash has the authentically fake teak wood grain finish. Camry dash might be an improvement.Yea, but you also have to subject yourself to sitting behind a Toyota Camry dash every. single. time.
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Yes but to be fair, it looked like this:DAMN!!!! Did you really paid less than $150 your 80?
Each of my DIY oil change cost at least $60, tank of gas was $100 at one point in time......and we are headed that way again!
I think I did something wrong...
I've read through the first 20 pages or so and am still reading. However, I decided to do this mod as I'm in the process of replacing the electric fans that the PO installed. I bought a brand new Aisin blue hub from Rock Auto and a 59ml/2.0oz bottle of Team Associated 20,000 cst diff oil.
I followed the directions back on page 1, only varying from them by using an IR thermometer on the back side of where that coiled spring is. Ie- as it sat in the water, I put the IR gun up against the center and measured there. At 95°F, I adjusted the plate and tightened the screws.
I filled the drive flange side up to the bottom of the four holes- maybe a bit more than that, actually, but not past halfway up the holes for sure- and bolted it all back together. There is about 1/3 of the bottle remaining. I did this while I made the adjustment and didn't wait too long for the oil to settle, but I did rotate the housing quite a bit and filled from different positions; the fluid seemed level.
Now that its back together, when I spin it by hand while holding it horizontally, I can feel some drag for maybe five or six turns and then it frees up and spins like there's nothing in there at all. I then heated the coil with a mini torch held at distance to get the ports to open up inside, and it behaved the same way.
Is this how it should be, or did I do something wrong? Since there's still 1/3 of a bottle of the oil left, did I not put enough in?
I've read through the first 20 pages or so and am still reading. However, I decided to do this mod as I'm in the process of replacing the electric fans that the PO installed. I bought a brand new Aisin blue hub from Rock Auto and a 59ml/2.0oz bottle of Team Associated 20,000 cst diff oil.
I followed the directions back on page 1, only varying from them by using an IR thermometer on the back side of where that coiled spring is. Ie- as it sat in the water, I put the IR gun up against the center and measured there. At 95°F, I adjusted the plate and tightened the screws.
I filled the drive flange side up to the bottom of the four holes- maybe a bit more than that, actually, but not past halfway up the holes for sure- and bolted it all back together. There is about 1/3 of the bottle remaining. I did this while I made the adjustment and didn't wait too long for the oil to settle, but I did rotate the housing quite a bit and filled from different positions; the fluid seemed level.
Now that its back together, when I spin it by hand while holding it horizontally, I can feel some drag for maybe five or six turns and then it frees up and spins like there's nothing in there at all. I then heated the coil with a mini torch held at distance to get the ports to open up inside, and it behaved the same way.
Is this how it should be, or did I do something wrong? Since there's still 1/3 of a bottle of the oil left, did I not put enough in?
I wouldn't use a IR gun to take accurate temp readings on this particular set up. The reason being... the 'emissivity' of the object can cause the reading to be grossly inaccurate. If you are going to use that method, then paint the surface you want to measure flat black first. I'd recommend just using an analog temp probe in the water.
Both times I have done the fan clutch mod (blue hub) I have put 48-50ml in the unit. So...you might be a bit shy if you have 1/3rd of the bottle left. But it depends on how well the unit was drained to begin with.
Don't be too concerned about the how the clutch acts 'in hand'. You will need to mount the unit and let it spin in order for centrifugal force to adequately distribute the fluid for the first time.
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Thanks, Flint. I decided to just see how it'd work and went about installing it and the shroud... broke the shroud AND the nipple on the top tank of my brand new radiator. Mf'er... so, MORE parts inbound.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Yup, that will work fine. Although 10K is a little light. Most go with 15K, but looks like you live in the north, so might work fine for you locally.
