Apparently the fan clutch looks good. But just wondering why it does not has “Black Rubber O Ring” of nearly 4 inches dia.
Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)
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Apparently the fan clutch looks good. But just wondering why it does not has “Black Rubber O Ring” of nearly 4 inches dia.
got a question about cst of fan clutch silicone oil.
here in Winter we have 5-20 degree Centigrade. (almost no heating issues in winter).
but from Mid March to early October, we have 30-50 degree Centigrade. (you can see lots of cars on highways shoulders with heating issues)
Here the availability of silicon oil is either in 5000cst or 12500cst.
should i use 12500cst for better fan speed & hence better cooling ?
here in Winter we have 5-20 degree Centigrade. (almost no heating issues in winter).
but from Mid March to early October, we have 30-50 degree Centigrade. (you can see lots of cars on highways shoulders with heating issues)
Here the availability of silicon oil is either in 5000cst or 12500cst.
should i use 12500cst for better fan speed & hence better cooling ?
mine does have the o ring. it had fallen out but i didn’t have a hard time getting it back in. i put 15000 cts in and it has made cooling better but no harm on getting it up to temp in the cold. i’d use the 12500 for what you described.
im in -40 to +40 C temps with mine throughout the year. no issues yet
im in -40 to +40 C temps with mine throughout the year. no issues yet
Like a poster above, I had high temps until I did 15K fluid and adjusted my new blue hub fan clutch. I had tried just changing the fluid in my original Eaton clutch, and didn't get the gains I needed. When I bought a new blue hub clutch and changed fluid and modified the opening temp my operating cooling immediately dropped to mostly 185, at times going up to 195. I had previously topped out at 217, so that's a big improvement.
I should have gotten a new blue hub and mod'd it five years earlier, when I bought the truck.
It's been said many times - straighten out your cooling system first. We should consider that part of baselining, really.
I should have gotten a new blue hub and mod'd it five years earlier, when I bought the truck.
It's been said many times - straighten out your cooling system first. We should consider that part of baselining, really.
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I am running a CSF all metal@Tools R Us suggested moving to from Copper rad to Aluminum
Is TYC 1918 fits 1994 rig? because label says otherwise
...
It will fit, have put several in '93-94 models.
I'm sorry, I mis-understood your previous post. The pic of the TYC 1918 confused me. I thought you were already running it.
Yes, although it is listed as 95-97, it should still mount, without modification in a '94 - it fit fine in my '94.
As far as the "the best radiator for FZJ80 known to humanity" - you might check out this thread. I think @NLXTACY and @Marco Lau are running the Ron Davis Aluminum. Marco has a 3FE in his 80, But NLXTACY has a 1FZ. You might PM one of them for their recommendations. I know that aluminum radiators, seem to be more efficient in our 80s - especially modified with bigger tires & heavy armor. It definitely made a difference in mine.
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I observed that fan clutches of early 90s models of Toyota Crown with 2JZ engine (3000cc gasoline) are bigger than LCs of same years.
Apparently LCs has 4.0L~4.7L engines and should have bigger fan & bigger clutch.
Just wondering that why 2JZ has bigger fan & bigger clutch than 1HD ?
Apparently LCs has 4.0L~4.7L engines and should have bigger fan & bigger clutch.
Just wondering that why 2JZ has bigger fan & bigger clutch than 1HD ?
Hi guys, just trawling through the last 48 pages, I have a 2.4 2LII diesel with the blue aisin fan hub, opened up the hb, factory temp set at 62 degrees C, by truck has been running like this for years, but has been creeping past half way mark on temp gauge recently. I tried dropping the half open temp to 45 degrees Celsius, but this was too low, the engine was barely warm before the fan engaged.
I think the critical information you need when setting the temp for the engagement of the fan clutch is your thermostat opening temp, and the thermostat full open temperature. In my case, I have a 88 degree C (192 F) thermostat, which is fully open at approx 12 degrees C higher or 212F (100 degrees C).
There is no point in setting your fan to be fully engaged before coolant is fully circulating through the radiator, as there is no hot coolant to cool, and you are unnecessarily robbing your engine of power and running at lower than designed engine temperature. Most engines are designed to operate at 195F or higher coolant temp, with 212-220 being reasonable with plenty of headroom given a 50/50 coolant mix and a 15psi pressurised system.
You want the fan to be fully engaged at approx 2 degrees higher than the fully open temp of your thermostat, allowing the temperature to cycle within a few degrees of the operating temperature.
I drained 36ml of oil out of my original clutch, didn't look bad, but put in 40ml of new 10,000 cst oil, and I notice it engages more fully now, even with the same amount of oil, and the same viscosity of oil.(assumed viscosity.. hard to say what the factory toyota fill was.) I can only assume that the old oil was breaking down with age.
I've now set my half open point to 50 degrees C (122F), but I have a digital temp probe on order, so I will check the full open temp at the top radiator hose, and test the air temp in front of the fan clutch, to see the differential in air temp vs coolant temp (Haynes report the air temp to be approx 30% lower than the coolant temp). I can then set my fan clutch to a couple of degrees or more higher than the measured temp in front of the fan clutch.
I think the critical information you need when setting the temp for the engagement of the fan clutch is your thermostat opening temp, and the thermostat full open temperature. In my case, I have a 88 degree C (192 F) thermostat, which is fully open at approx 12 degrees C higher or 212F (100 degrees C).
There is no point in setting your fan to be fully engaged before coolant is fully circulating through the radiator, as there is no hot coolant to cool, and you are unnecessarily robbing your engine of power and running at lower than designed engine temperature. Most engines are designed to operate at 195F or higher coolant temp, with 212-220 being reasonable with plenty of headroom given a 50/50 coolant mix and a 15psi pressurised system.
You want the fan to be fully engaged at approx 2 degrees higher than the fully open temp of your thermostat, allowing the temperature to cycle within a few degrees of the operating temperature.
I drained 36ml of oil out of my original clutch, didn't look bad, but put in 40ml of new 10,000 cst oil, and I notice it engages more fully now, even with the same amount of oil, and the same viscosity of oil.(assumed viscosity.. hard to say what the factory toyota fill was.) I can only assume that the old oil was breaking down with age.
I've now set my half open point to 50 degrees C (122F), but I have a digital temp probe on order, so I will check the full open temp at the top radiator hose, and test the air temp in front of the fan clutch, to see the differential in air temp vs coolant temp (Haynes report the air temp to be approx 30% lower than the coolant temp). I can then set my fan clutch to a couple of degrees or more higher than the measured temp in front of the fan clutch.
mypancreasbroke
SILVER Star
Alright. Finally wrapped this job up today, having purchased a new blue clutch, drained, adjusted, and refilled. But a few questions as I consider myself a 
level mechanic. First off... one of the bolts the clutch attaches to off my water pump was missing... hhmmm. I feel like this needs to be addressed. How big of a risk is it driving the truck (my dd) with only 3 of the nuts securing the fan clutch to the water pump? Second, as I pulled the the fan and clutch off, it seemed the pulley on the water pump with the belts on it was loose, as in it moved under the tension of the belts, and was not secure. I'm not sure if it is supposed to be secured to, or a part of, the water pump?
I've read through this whole thread twice and totally appreciate all the research, time, effort, and discussion. I also think I somehow managed to put a pinprick hole in my radiator... hooray! I've been wanting to update the whole cooling system after replacing my heater control valved and phh two years ago, so I think it's time to start reading every radiator thread and obsessing over that.
level mechanic. First off... one of the bolts the clutch attaches to off my water pump was missing... hhmmm. I feel like this needs to be addressed. How big of a risk is it driving the truck (my dd) with only 3 of the nuts securing the fan clutch to the water pump? Second, as I pulled the the fan and clutch off, it seemed the pulley on the water pump with the belts on it was loose, as in it moved under the tension of the belts, and was not secure. I'm not sure if it is supposed to be secured to, or a part of, the water pump?I've read through this whole thread twice and totally appreciate all the research, time, effort, and discussion. I also think I somehow managed to put a pinprick hole in my radiator... hooray! I've been wanting to update the whole cooling system after replacing my heater control valved and phh two years ago, so I think it's time to start reading every radiator thread and obsessing over that.
The fan pulley is held on by the 4 bolts. It will come right off, and the belt too, once the fan is removed. I'd want all 4 bolts on there before driving.Alright. Finally wrapped this job up today, having purchased a new blue clutch, drained, adjusted, and refilled. But a few questions as I consider myself a
I've read through this whole thread twice and totally appreciate all the research, time, effort, and discussion. I also think I somehow managed to put a pinprick hole in my radiator... hooray! I've been wanting to update the whole cooling system after replacing my heater control valved and phh two years ago, so I think it's time to start reading every radiator thread and obsessing over that.
I'm also reading every cooling thread, that's how I saw your post. Good luck on your mission.
richardlillard1
SILVER Star
I’ve run it with three studs before. No advisable, but you can do it.
There’s a Dorman Help! Brand stud which fits on there nicely. It’s a bit longer too, so getting the clutch on is a little easier in my opinion.
There’s a Dorman Help! Brand stud which fits on there nicely. It’s a bit longer too, so getting the clutch on is a little easier in my opinion.
I have a 94 and i am runnng a OEM 95-97 radiator. It will bolt right in.
mypancreasbroke
SILVER Star
Awesome, thank you guys above for the help. FYI for anyone looking at doing this, after having planned to do it for years, and finally having completed it, its really dang simple and easy (unless you're careless and poke your radiator like me).
mypancreasbroke
SILVER Star
Good news, no hole in the radiator, so I can hold off on that for now. Another quick question, this on about the described fan roar in the previous 48 pages. Should this be a momentary thing, or something that lasts for a few moments?
In the hope that is will save someone from stuffing up the screw heads, these screws ARE NOT PHILIPS HEAD, they are in fact J.I.S. screws.
They look very similar, but when you use a J.I.S. driver you will notice immediately how the driver locks into the screw head, and doesn't want to cam-out of the slots.
See the full explanation here under J.I.S. B1012
List of screw drives - Wikipedia
Near as I can tell from using the J.I.S. drivers, all the screws on Toyotas are J.I.S.
In the hope that is will save someone from stuffing up the screw heads, these screws ARE NOT PHILIPS HEAD, they are in fact J.I.S. screws.
They look very similar, but when you use a J.I.S. driver you will notice immediately how the driver locks into the screw head, and doesn't want to cam-out of the slots.
See the full explanation here under J.I.S. B1012
List of screw drives - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Near as I can tell from using the J.I.S. drivers, all the screws on Toyotas are J.I.S.
Correct. And it is always best to use the proper tool for the job at hand.
That said, if you grind the tip off of a #3 phillips bit (lets it seat deeper into the screw head) AND use a small impact (I use a battery powered one) it will zip them right out without buggering up the heads. Same thing for the Oil Pump Cover.
Not sure if this has been covered yet, haven't read all 48 pages, but do any of the blue fan clutch models work on a 1HDT? Or a specific Aisin part number? One on rockauto is about $85 CAD, vs $183 on partsouq for the diesel version 
They look identical other than the hub.
They look identical other than the hub.
If you want THE blue fan clutch—the One Clutch To Rule Them All—ask @NLXTACY...Not sure if this has been covered yet, haven't read all 48 pages, but do any of the blue fan clutch models work on a 1HDT? Or a specific Aisin part number? One on rockauto is about $85 CAD, vs $183 on partsouq for the diesel version
He also does other colors.
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Not sure if this has been covered yet, haven't read all 48 pages, but do any of the blue fan clutch models work on a 1HDT? Or a specific Aisin part number? One on rockauto is about $85 CAD, vs $183 on partsouq for the diesel version
There are several hubs used over different models, but they all have the same bolt patterns for mounting to the pump, and for mounting blades:
DARK BLUE SHAFT: FZJ-75/8/9/80 #16210-66020 (longer shaft)
ORANGE SHAFT: HZJ-78/79/105 & HDJ-78/79 #16210-17070 (4mm thicker body)
BLACK SHAFT: HZJ-75/80 #16210-17021
SILVER SHAFT: HDFTE-100 #16210-17050
PALE BLUE SHAFT: HDT-80 and HDFT-80 #16210-17010
There are several different blade sets also, all have the same mounting pattern
:
80 Series: 445mm O.D. 190mm Hub I.D. 62.4mm stud hole space #16361-17010 & 17020
105 Series and 79 RED DOT (51mm thick at hub) #16361-17030
105 Series and 78, 79, 100, BLUE DOT (47mm thick at hub) #16361-17040
YELLOW DOT fan gives more “Setback” for 1HZ-100, HDJ-100, but is std. setback for FZJ-75/8/9, VDJ-78/9. (Great if you do water crossings, or fit thicker core radiator)
Knowing what I know now, if I ever have to replace these again, I would go for the Orange shafted hub, and the Red dot blades, which are slightly larger, but still fit the 80 shroud, and they apparently move more air, so possibly more aggressive pitch.
Or, the other solution is the Qikazz hub & blade set, which uses a larger hub and Mitsubishi blades.
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