Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter landtank
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so i opened the clutch today. mine looks different inside that the original post. it’s off a 1hdt. is this still going to work for me?
my fans kind of teal. hope that’s close enough to “blue” to make this work.
my fans kind of teal. hope that’s close enough to “blue” to make this work.
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never mind. post 53 makes me less concerned. here we go!!
Yes, will work fine. I wouldn't have removed that gasket (O-Ring) if you didn't have to though.
it stuck to the side going into the water bath and as it heated up it fell off. i tried to leave it. mine didn’t seem too stretched out but i’ll know more tonight as i try to put it back together.
edit: o ring installed super easy for me. took two minutes. all back together now!!
edit: o ring installed super easy for me. took two minutes. all back together now!!
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Is that a black residue in your original fluid? Reason I ask is I had that on my original clutch - black spots in fluid and less than a year later the bearing seized in it. Just asking, because it can be a tell tale sign. The black spots are corrosion from the bearing being drawn into the clutch fluid.
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thanks for the heads up. ill take a closer look. i don’t think it’s in the fluid though but staining in the metal. ill have a close look at the fluid that has drained out
edit: fluid looked clean
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Here is my blue fan clutch story. Put a new blue fan clutch in 10 years ago when I base lined after I purchase my 80. Did not know the fluid mod at that time. Still had mild overheating. Used a obdII and torque app to monitor over a few years. Decided to put a new radiator and thermostat in 5 years later after realizing during a flush that the previous owner must have mixed red and green coolant, worked better except during high outside temps and hill climes fully loaded down with gear. Finally got really bad last month up to 226F when crawling on a sierra trip in 90F and high elevation. Milked it along and ran the heater the entire trip. Had no time to mod a clutch before my next trip, so took to the shop for a new fan clutch and thermostat. Kept the old part anticipating a fluid change and check. On my trip with a new stock clutch, did much better in the desert 90F out side AC on but still climbed to 210 climbing hills while loaded with gear. So ordered 15K fluid. Started the build today. The original fluid was very clean and thick, slightly yellowish. Tested the opening temp of the old clutch. Did not fully open until 130F and fully closed at 120F as it cooled. I assume that was my problem all along. So I used my small impact to remove the adjusting screw with what I thought was the correct Japanese bit. Worked easily on the first screw spun the second screw, wrong bit.
Tried to Dremel a slot into the screw to remove. As usual I was too aggressive, forgot my old man glasses, disc slide off and marred the surface of the sheer area. Call me Homer Simpson, still spun the screw by hand trying to remove. With nothing to grip I threw the old clutch in the trash and will remove the new installed clutch and attempt to mod the oil on new one.
Any one else test a blue clutch that didn't fully open the ports until over 130F?
Tried to Dremel a slot into the screw to remove. As usual I was too aggressive, forgot my old man glasses, disc slide off and marred the surface of the sheer area. Call me Homer Simpson, still spun the screw by hand trying to remove. With nothing to grip I threw the old clutch in the trash and will remove the new installed clutch and attempt to mod the oil on new one.Any one else test a blue clutch that didn't fully open the ports until over 130F?
Quite the story - sounds like my luck...lol. I had similar results with a blue fan clutch I put in my '94 back in 2010. Opened it up, checked timing & put in approx 25K fluid - a mixture. Ran it for about 7 years or so, dissatisfied with the performance the whole time. Finally tried Landtanks modified blue clutch from Wit's End and that made a significant difference. Opened 1st blue clutch up and checked timing. It had shifted and wasn't opening until well above 100*- kinda like yours. Now running 2nd blue clutch it was better, but even with it I was still running hotter than normal when running in triple digit temps with A/C on. So I went back to the drawing board. BTW, I was running a CSF all metal, brass/copper radiator. Heard from the Arizona crew about the TYC radiator, aluminum with plastic tanks - @Spike gave me the Amazon link. I was on the fence at 1st, but finally said -what the hell, I'll give it a try. And I'm glad I did! Wow, that has made the difference. It's basically a throw away radiator - cheap, just over $100, but is more efficient than the other alum/plastic. Tubes & fins are slightly different and core seems thicker. @Tools R Us did some checking and it has the best performance specs that the AZ crew runs. It'll fit your '97 and I would highly recommend it.Here is my blue fan clutch story. Put a new blue fan clutch in 10 years ago when I base lined after I purchase my 80. Did not know the fluid mod at that time. Still had mild overheating. Used a obdII and torque app to monitor over a few years. Decided to put a new radiator and thermostat in 5 years later after realizing during a flush that the previous owner must have mixed red and green coolant, worked better except during high outside temps and hill climes fully loaded down with gear. Finally got really bad last month up to 226F when crawling on a sierra trip in 90F and high elevation. Milked it along and ran the heater the entire trip. Had no time to mod a clutch before my next trip, so took to the shop for a new fan clutch and thermostat. Kept the old part anticipating a fluid change and check. On my trip with a new stock clutch, did much better in the desert 90F out side AC on but still climbed to 210 climbing hills while loaded with gear. So ordered 15K fluid. Started the build today. The original fluid was very clean and thick, slightly yellowish. Tested the opening temp of the old clutch. Did not fully open until 130F and fully closed at 120F as it cooled. I assume that was my problem all along. So I used my small impact to remove the adjusting screw with what I thought was the correct Japanese bit. Worked easily on the first screw spun the second screw, wrong bit.
Any one else test a blue clutch that didn't fully open the ports until over 130F?
Wow, I just saw they raised the price to $146! Too many other cruiser heads been ordering - because it's the best bang for your buck plus it's got the best performance.
Thanks, Rick.
Did this last night. Drained over night. Filled to bottom of drive plate. Basically one 59 ml tube of 15k cst without aggressively trying to get the last drops.
Looking forward to the benefits
Did this last night. Drained over night. Filled to bottom of drive plate. Basically one 59 ml tube of 15k cst without aggressively trying to get the last drops.
Looking forward to the benefits
I have been reading for an hour and I don’t see why I need to place this clutch hub side down and drain overnight if I am just going to take it apart anyway??
Won’t it all come out when I open it?
Won’t it all come out when I open it?
- Thread starter
- #932
It's a slow moving fluid so draining over night ensures all the old is out.
I should have been more clear...
Why not take apart and let each side drain instead of draining while still together, as the write up states?
Thanks!
Yes, you have to split em apart to drain and fill....and it doesn't all drain out in a few seconds lol...I put mine (both halves) in the oven for 30 min or so on lowest setting to heat up fluid and then let fluid drain out over night in a metal baking pan....this is the best way to get ALL the old fluid out so u don't mix old with new on refill....
Thanks for the response - this was the exact path I was going down. Thinking of leaving in the oven on lowest setting all night
30 to 45 min in oven is all thats needed and make sure the O-ring gasket is out before oven time...
Thanks - it’s already out. Fluid looks like dark honey
I am running a CSF all metal
@Tools R Us suggested moving to from Copper rad to Aluminum Is TYC 1918 fits 1994 rig? because label says otherwise
I did my mode my self with all the problems of the screws and too long Oring that didnt want to fit back. did this 6 mounts ago In the summer it improved but still running hotter than normal when running in triple digit temps with A/C especially over 70 miles or going up a mountain lets say from Dead sea the lowest place in the world to Jerusalem
used 30K fluid 50 ml it takes some of the engine power
I use OBD1 reading and external temp on the haed
I totaly base lined the cooling system including the Oil cooler pump and thermostat and run toyota red
Expand to see highlightingI am running a CSF all metal
Is TYC 1918 fits 1994 rig? because label says otherwise
I did my mode my self with all the problems of the screws and too long Oring that didnt want to fit back. did this 6 mounts ago In the summer it improved but still running hotter than normal when running in triple digit temps with A/C especially over 70 miles or going up a mountain lets say from Dead sea the lowest place in the world to Jerusalem
used 30K fluid 50 ml it takes some of the engine power
I use OBD1 reading and external temp on the haed
I totaly base lined the cooling system including the Oil cooler pump and thermostat and run toyota red
If you are running the TYC 1918 aluminum, mentioned in the link, yes, it will run hotter than it normally runs while you are experiencing the conditions you stated that I've highlighted in red. But, for all the modifications done to the rig, especially the larger tires and armor, causing the engine to work harder, the TYC 1918 aluminum has made the biggest difference for coolant performance for me. IMHO, for the money, that's the best performing radiator you can run.
Dear @80t0ylc i did not understand, you wroth 2 conflicting things
No i am running CSF 3 raw Copper rad... not TYC, i have no experience with TYC
the question is to replace the 1 year old with new TYC 1918? or not?
forget for one moment about the money, what is the best radiator for FZJ80 known to humanity? for heavy load hot condition??
