Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (2 Viewers)

[Ringwraith]

There are several hubs used over different models, but they all have the same bolt patterns for mounting to the pump, and for mounting blades:

DARK BLUE SHAFT: FZJ-75/8/9/80 #16210-66020 (longer shaft)

ORANGE SHAFT: HZJ-78/79/105 & HDJ-78/79 #16210-17070 (4mm thicker body)

BLACK SHAFT: HZJ-75/80 #16210-17021

SILVER SHAFT: HDFTE-100 #16210-17050

PALE BLUE SHAFT: HDT-80 and HDFT-80 #16210-17010


There are several different blade sets also, all have the same mounting pattern
:
80 Series: 445mm O.D. 190mm Hub I.D. 62.4mm stud hole space #16361-17010 & 17020

105 Series and 79 RED DOT (51mm thick at hub) #16361-17030

105 Series and 78, 79, 100, BLUE DOT (47mm thick at hub) #16361-17040

YELLOW DOT fan gives more “Setback” for 1HZ-100, HDJ-100, but is std. setback for FZJ-75/8/9, VDJ-78/9. (Great if you do water crossings, or fit thicker core radiator)

Knowing what I know now, if I ever have to replace these again, I would go for the Orange shafted hub, and the Red dot blades, which are slightly larger, but still fit the 80 shroud, and they apparently move more air, so possibly more aggressive pitch.

Or, the other solution is the Qikazz hub & blade set, which uses a larger hub and Mitsubishi blades.

QIKAZZ Fan Cooling Upgrade Kit for Toyota LandCruiser 75 / 78 / 79 / 80 / 100 / 105 1hz

!!! FREE FREIGHT !!! 1hz owners your day has come, you can put your mind at rest as we have released a 1hz Fan Setup that will out perform any fan setup you have used before. Finally a LandCruiser 75 / 78 / 79 / 80 / 100 / 105 1hz cooling fan solution. This IS the ultimate in keeping your 1hz...

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Is the longer shaft on the Dark Blue one, which is Aisin FCT004, a problem on the 1HDT? Looks like there is lots of extra room between my fan and the rad. The FCT004 is significantly cheaper and easier to find than the one for the 1HDT.

 

[landtank]

Is the longer shaft on the Dark Blue one, which is Aisin FCT004, a problem on the 1HDT? Looks like there is lots of extra room between my fan and the rad. The FCT004 is significantly cheaper and easier to find than the one for the 1HDT.

People have used them but they also had to shim them. The problem with that is the water pumps are made with a round dowel on the tip that interfaces with the clutch as well as a lip at the clutches base. The hole on the blue clutch is for a larger diameter dowel and with the added spacer there is no centering of the clutch on the pump other than the studs. This could create a wobble and lead to premature failure of the pump, clutch or both.

 

[Ptrott]

Sorry I can't help you with Aisin numbers, but possibly if you use the fan blade set that goes with that hub it will work.
If you get to work on Google you can find the drawings with dimensions for hubs and fans.

 

[downunder 80]

Question.
I have a HDFT that is doing opposite to the problem you guys are having.
Whilst I'm driving up the highway my engine watch dog which in fitted to the water outlet bolt on the head sits on 76-78deg as soon as the watch dog gets to 79c the fan cuts in and brings the temp down to 75-76c before cutting back out.
I have adjusted the clutch so it is all the way closed to get it to this point, before I adjusted the clutch would cut in earlier still. Before I adjusted th clutch it would come in at a set of lights and not come out for some time regardless of the watchdog temp (this problem has been solved with the adjustment)
I can't tell you how much oil is in it as I only just found this thread now.
Any ideas on my next step?
Could the early engagement be caused by too much oil? I dont know what the previous owner done to it before I bought the motor. Motor is a Jap import if this helps
Thanks

 

[Desert Dino]

Question.
I have a HDFT that is doing opposite to the problem you guys are having.
Whilst I'm driving up the highway my engine watch dog which in fitted to the water outlet bolt on the head sits on 76-78deg as soon as the watch dog gets to 79c the fan cuts in and brings the temp down to 75-76c before cutting back out.
I have adjusted the clutch so it is all the way closed to get it to this point, before I adjusted the clutch would cut in earlier still. Before I adjusted th clutch it would come in at a set of lights and not come out for some time regardless of the watchdog temp (this problem has been solved with the adjustment)
I can't tell you how much oil is in it as I only just found this thread now.
Any ideas on my next step?
Could the early engagement be caused by too much oil? I dont know what the previous owner done to it before I bought the motor. Motor is a Jap import if this helps
Thanks

@downunder 80 its not your FC that is kicking in what you see is the thermostat work

FC depends on ambient temp

just get OEM termostat

 

[downunder 80]

It has an OEM thermostat. From memory 76 it starts to open 90 its full open, I checked this in a pot before fitment.
Definitely the fan cutting in you can hear the fan running with the window down. I can hear the fan cut in and out and also a slight raise on exhaust temps when it does.
Thanks

 

[SegFault]

Just bought a new fan clutch for my 1HDT (light blue hub, part number FCT-034, 16210-17010) also bought some 15000 CST oil for it, have these been pretty empty like the gasser versions? Any benefit to modifying them?

 

[Haspin FJ]

On my 97 80 series I got a new aisin blue clutch and tried the 10k fluid. Using the torque app, It still ran hot running up over 200F on a 90+ humid day on relatively flat midwest highway at 70mph. I changed it to 15k (47.5ml) and now stays I the low to mid 180's and into the mid 190's when pushing it and got tested wheeling in the TN mountains over labor day and stayed cool with a small range from min to max the whole time. Great mod.

 

[SegFault]

Doing the mod now, it for sure wasn’t under-filled. Have it in the oven now to help it drain. Doing this on a brand new fan clutch is really easy.

Draining whatever was in it and replacing it with 15000 CST. Hopefully that’s good enough, if not off it’ll come off for heavier oil.

I’ve seen some videos of people just putting in 30 some odd ml, or what they took out but I’ve seen it mentioned here people put close to 50ml. So do I only put in what came out or top it off with 50ml?

 

[flintknapper]

Doing the mod now, it for sure wasn’t under-filled. Have it in the oven now to help it drain. Doing this on a brand new fan clutch is really easy.

Draining whatever was in it and replacing it with 15000 CST. Hopefully that’s good enough, if not off it’ll come off for heavier oil.

I’ve seen some videos of people just putting in 30 some odd ml, or what they took out but I’ve seen it mentioned here people put close to 50ml. So do I only put in what came out or top it off with 50ml?

I'm confident I got nearly all the original fluid out of mine. Mine took right at 48ml to fill.

Pretty hot where I live (Deep East Texas) so I used 20K fluid. Has worked well.

 

[SegFault]

I almost went with 20k but I live here in the PNW (but I do travel down your way and other desert areas where it gets to 110-120 plus easily).

Doing a turbo install this weekend on the truck and swapping to a 3 row aluminum manual transmission radiator, so I’m just getting the fan clutch ready. Looking forward to seeing how it all works together.

I'm confident I got nearly all the original fluid out of mine. Mine took right at 48ml to fill.

Pretty hot where I live (Deep East Texas) so I used 20K fluid. Has worked well.

 

[Cruzerman]

I just modded a new one with 30K oil. Going to take me a little while to get it all put back together with the alternator upgrade, new radiator, A/C repair, etc. all happening at the same time. Will report back when done. Am somewhat concerned that it may be too much for me in the PNW. The mod is done and I haven't installed it yet, but already seems hard to turn.

 

[SegFault]

Ok, so I installed the new clutch with the new fluid. Put it on and it was hard to spin cold. Now that it’s ‘hot’ (20 minute drive) it spins freely by hand. Is that normal? The old one didn’t spin free really no matter what, so just trying to make sure it’s all good. Thanks!

 

[lowenbrau]

There are several hubs used over different models, but they all have the same bolt patterns for mounting to the pump, and for mounting blades:

DARK BLUE SHAFT: FZJ-75/8/9/80 #16210-66020 (longer shaft)

ORANGE SHAFT: HZJ-78/79/105 & HDJ-78/79 #16210-17070 (4mm thicker body)

BLACK SHAFT: HZJ-75/80 #16210-17021

SILVER SHAFT: HDFTE-100 #16210-17050

PALE BLUE SHAFT: HDT-80 and HDFT-80 #16210-17010


There are several different blade sets also, all have the same mounting pattern
:
80 Series: 445mm O.D. 190mm Hub I.D. 62.4mm stud hole space #16361-17010 & 17020

105 Series and 79 RED DOT (51mm thick at hub) #16361-17030

105 Series and 78, 79, 100, BLUE DOT (47mm thick at hub) #16361-17040

YELLOW DOT fan gives more “Setback” for 1HZ-100, HDJ-100, but is std. setback for FZJ-75/8/9, VDJ-78/9. (Great if you do water crossings, or fit thicker core radiator)

Knowing what I know now, if I ever have to replace these again, I would go for the Orange shafted hub, and the Red dot blades, which are slightly larger, but still fit the 80 shroud, and they apparently move more air, so possibly more aggressive pitch.

Or, the other solution is the Qikazz hub & blade set, which uses a larger hub and Mitsubishi blades.

QIKAZZ Fan Cooling Upgrade Kit for Toyota LandCruiser 75 / 78 / 79 / 80 / 100 / 105 1hz

!!! FREE FREIGHT !!! 1hz owners your day has come, you can put your mind at rest as we have released a 1hz Fan Setup that will out perform any fan setup you have used before. Finally a LandCruiser 75 / 78 / 79 / 80 / 100 / 105 1hz cooling fan solution. This IS the ultimate in keeping your 1hz...

www.4x4andcamping.com.au

I

 

[lowenbrau]

I can help if anyone chooses a blue dot or yellow dot fan. I have one of each that are surplus to my needs

 

[jaymar]

I can help if anyone chooses a blue dot or yellow dot fan. I have one of each that are surplus to my needs

View attachment 2135831

I was unaware there were different fans. What's the difference?

 

[landtank]

Ok, so I installed the new clutch with the new fluid. Put it on and it was hard to spin cold. Now that it’s ‘hot’ (20 minute drive) it spins freely by hand. Is that normal? The old one didn’t spin free really no matter what, so just trying to make sure it’s all good. Thanks!

all you did is a drain and fill, this can happen.

 

[MidMan]

Ok, so I installed the new clutch with the new fluid. Put it on and it was hard to spin cold. Now that it’s ‘hot’ (20 minute drive) it spins freely by hand. Is that normal? The old one didn’t spin free really no matter what, so just trying to make sure it’s all good. Thanks!

At cold, the fan should be hard to spin and it sounds perfect.
Either you drove the jeep for 20 min. or 1 hour, whenever you turn off the engine, then you try to move it again with your finger and it should offer the same resistance like cold. But if it moves freely, then its not good.

As far as I know, this fan clutch only moves freely when rpms goes 4K or over.

 

[landtank]

At cold, the fan should be hard to spin and it sounds perfect.
Either you drove the jeep for 20 min. or 1 hour, whenever you turn off the engine, then you try to move it again with your finger and it should offer the same resistance like cold. But if it moves freely, then its not good.

As far as I know, this fan clutch only moves freely when rpms goes 4K or over.

Negative. The resistance of moving the fan after initial startup is relative to the temperature of the air passing over it from the radiator and it’s influence of the temp spring of the clutch. In very cold weather you can expect the clutch to have very little resistance.

 

[flintknapper]

Negative. The resistance of moving the fan after initial startup is relative to the temperature of the air passing over it from the radiator and it’s influence of the temp spring of the clutch. In very cold weather you can expect the clutch to have very little resistance.

^^^^^

Right.

I think quite a few folks don't understand what 'regulates' the opening and closing of the ports and to what degree it is adjustable.