Builds Benjamin’s 3D Prints Build (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter BenCC
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yup... later this year I plan on picking up a Scangauge II which will be installed in one of Ben's overhead adapters with the two button openings.
I've posted a couple earlier in the thread. Still happy with them.
Maybe a disco ball or chandelier? I mean, that would be totally baller. Or maybe a Twizzler dispenser ala Wayne's World.
BenCC
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #967
For the M2V2, I and @suprarx7nut are taking individual orders. If you want one, please PM me.
aaronrules
Coolest person you know!
Oh man...I was trying to be practical, but a Twizzler dispenser would be so friggin awesome!!!
Any luck? As you said, this is the real issue. The stock method caps are fine for the rears.
Anything is possible, but I doubt it. They dont fit on my truck, and I've never seen them fit anyone else's that didnt drill them.
Mine are plastic inserted into an aluminum shroud.
Member @re_guderian is running Method Race Wheels with caps front and rear. These look like regular 305 NV. I see some members running caps on the front and some who don't
This is the metal center cap part from a 305 NV.
This is the center cap I am using for the front 305NV Method wheels. Covers the hub without issue
Yes it is a 306 center cap. Taller than the standard cap.
Yes it is a 306 center cap. Taller than the standard cap.
I want a flux capacitor that gets 30 mpg on old banana peels.
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
I'll see if I can find/fit a LC console, if I can't find one or it doesn't fit, I might take you up on your offer, thanks!
Thanks for the info. The 306 looks to use a cap that is different from the 302, 304, 305, 307, and 309. Here's the long version below.
The flush version below. I don't see how these would work on a 100 series front.
They ( lower profile version) only work when you use a hole saw to mod the cap and let the grease cap poke through. FYI the push through cap also doubles as a centering ring (of sorts) on the hub- not totally necessary but it does help to use it.
Hey,
I found a trailer brake ashtray mode for a LX on another site but I had to break out my dremel to make it work for a 100. Any chance on making an ashtray trailer brake holder for a 100? I got this one to work but would rather have one that is more stable.
I found a trailer brake ashtray mode for a LX on another site but I had to break out my dremel to make it work for a 100. Any chance on making an ashtray trailer brake holder for a 100? I got this one to work but would rather have one that is more stable.
BenCC
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #980
Make 25 Door Step (Developing)
Requirement from @jlm43
"Maybe 6 inches long. It would act as a step to get onto the roof rack. The bottom should be some what soft and not slippery. The top can be hard but also no slippery. It’s something to protect the door trim and window seals when I don’t want to set up a ladder. And it would be a lot smaller and easy to store in the truck."
Tested the prototype. The liner(yellow) is printed with the same material used to make the facemask tensioners. The soft material is used to protect the door trim and paint. But it is not too soft so the white hard plastic part will not be in contact with door panel under load. The mainbody(white) of the prototype is printed with PLA. On the final product, the material would be ABS (stiffer, tougher but hard to print) or PETG (stiffer, tougher, and better impact resistant).
I am planning to print the final product in the TRD three-color scheme.
The mainbody is glued from three parts. This makes the assembly much tougher than a single print. The liner is also glued to the inside of the mainbody.
Requirement from @jlm43
"Maybe 6 inches long. It would act as a step to get onto the roof rack. The bottom should be some what soft and not slippery. The top can be hard but also no slippery. It’s something to protect the door trim and window seals when I don’t want to set up a ladder. And it would be a lot smaller and easy to store in the truck."
Tested the prototype. The liner(yellow) is printed with the same material used to make the facemask tensioners. The soft material is used to protect the door trim and paint. But it is not too soft so the white hard plastic part will not be in contact with door panel under load. The mainbody(white) of the prototype is printed with PLA. On the final product, the material would be ABS (stiffer, tougher but hard to print) or PETG (stiffer, tougher, and better impact resistant).
I am planning to print the final product in the TRD three-color scheme.
The mainbody is glued from three parts. This makes the assembly much tougher than a single print. The liner is also glued to the inside of the mainbody.
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