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Beginning the CRAZY FJ40 Rebuild
- Thread starter Shes Mad
- Start date
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The dark grey windshield frame appears to be a 64 or earlier. Where to start depends on how much work you want to do. I would look at the frames, pick the with the best one, and start there using the best components from both trucks. Good Luck!
- Thread starter
- #3
Well-started tearing the body down today. Haven't found any rust, but come across a couple of things that I have questions on.
There was nothing mounted to the drivers rear corner, but there must be 15 holes drilled in. Does anything besides the tail light mount there? Looks like I have a bunch of holes to plug, if someone can help me determine which ones I need.
Also, many of the hinges had rubber underneath them. Is that what they came with?
Here are a bunch of pics...Boring take apart stuff, but I wanted everyone to see what I have to start with.
There was nothing mounted to the drivers rear corner, but there must be 15 holes drilled in. Does anything besides the tail light mount there? Looks like I have a bunch of holes to plug, if someone can help me determine which ones I need.
Also, many of the hinges had rubber underneath them. Is that what they came with?
Here are a bunch of pics...Boring take apart stuff, but I wanted everyone to see what I have to start with.
Rear drivers-side qtr panel held a couple of emblems, a Toyota Emblem and a 4WD emblem. That's the source of a few of your body holes. Also there are the holes for the hinges for the rear doors and the large opening is for the reverse light.
You do, however, appear to have several extra holes in the qtr panel.
On my '69 FJ40 many of the hinges still have what appear to be factory rubber pieces beneath
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks Seth--Extremely helpful!!
Hopefully I get the body off the frame in a few days--then the fun part SANDBLASTING!!!
Hopefully I get the body off the frame in a few days--then the fun part SANDBLASTING!!!
The dark grey 65 looks like the doors and window frame are correct. The tub and hard top are later though.
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- #7
Moving right along--Got the body off of the frame and onto a cart. Pretty good shape, but I will have to replace the front floors, and maybe the tunnell. It's been cut up quitea bit.
Also, the Pass side corner has a bunch of holes in it also--Which ones do I need---I know the 4 for the tire carrier, but there are a bunch
Also--Holes along the rin--probably for a soft top at one time, but they are all over. Should I weld them up?
Lastly, where do I get front floors and a trans tunnel for a floor shift. Anybody got any laying around.
I appreciate the help--SANDBLASTING TOMORROW!!!!
Also, the Pass side corner has a bunch of holes in it also--Which ones do I need---I know the 4 for the tire carrier, but there are a bunch
Also--Holes along the rin--probably for a soft top at one time, but they are all over. Should I weld them up?
Lastly, where do I get front floors and a trans tunnel for a floor shift. Anybody got any laying around.
I appreciate the help--SANDBLASTING TOMORROW!!!!
I dig the "rotiserie"! Can you show some pics of how you're supporting it?
- Thread starter
- #9
Sure---Not really a rotissiere, because you can't spin it, but you can get it on it's side, as my earlier post showed. If you just lengthen the upright on the engine stand, you could spin it, but that was too much work.
For the front--a 2X3 tube--welded a 1/2" nut to a plate, then welded the plate inside the tube. Then just bolted through the wire slots. The slots are different height, so you have to angle the front tube. Also, weld with a bolt in the nut to hold it in place, taking care not to weld the bolt TO the nut, to avoid damaging the threads. Take the bolt out right away, when hot, then when done I ran a tap through the nut to clean it up
For the back, a 4" channel bolted to the 4 holes in the back bottom, then weld 2 2" channels upright to attach to.
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When using engine stands, you need to keep the attachment points at the same height from the ground, both front and rear, or it won't turn at all. If they are not the same height, it will try and turn and twist one of the stands. I have both attachment points (where the arms from the stand attach to the braces I put on the body) 37" off the floor
For the front--a 2X3 tube--welded a 1/2" nut to a plate, then welded the plate inside the tube. Then just bolted through the wire slots. The slots are different height, so you have to angle the front tube. Also, weld with a bolt in the nut to hold it in place, taking care not to weld the bolt TO the nut, to avoid damaging the threads. Take the bolt out right away, when hot, then when done I ran a tap through the nut to clean it up
For the back, a 4" channel bolted to the 4 holes in the back bottom, then weld 2 2" channels upright to attach to.
When using engine stands, you need to keep the attachment points at the same height from the ground, both front and rear, or it won't turn at all. If they are not the same height, it will try and turn and twist one of the stands. I have both attachment points (where the arms from the stand attach to the braces I put on the body) 37" off the floor
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- Thread starter
- #10
OK--sandblasting is one of the worse jobs there is. Thought I would never get done.
Didn't find anything I didn't know about--just need to replace both front floors, and the floor tail piece. And weld up about a hundred holes!!! PO must have has a thing for self piercing screws.
Little bondo in the corners, but not covering rust--just some dents.
Holes should be easy to weld up, I think I will Rhino line the interior floor when I get done.
Anybody do that with regrets? Something pretty hard to undo, Thought I would seek out opinions.
Also, where is the best place to get floors, and front fenders. That's the only metal I need, and I may as well get them both from the same place to save freight.
Didn't find anything I didn't know about--just need to replace both front floors, and the floor tail piece. And weld up about a hundred holes!!! PO must have has a thing for self piercing screws.
Little bondo in the corners, but not covering rust--just some dents.
Holes should be easy to weld up, I think I will Rhino line the interior floor when I get done.
Anybody do that with regrets? Something pretty hard to undo, Thought I would seek out opinions.
Also, where is the best place to get floors, and front fenders. That's the only metal I need, and I may as well get them both from the same place to save freight.
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Looking good! You're off and running. I like your set-up for working on the body. -Ed
- Thread starter
- #12
I got a chance to do some work last night. I cut out the back of the tub, and one corner for replacement. I am having a local shop make the rear panel piece, as I saw they were either not cheap, or difficult to get.
Don't know what they will charge, but I will post pics up so everyone can see, and if we like it, and the price is right, I can get him to make more for mud members. He is making it out of 16 Guage. I know he said he could not bend the little angle on the bottom--it would have to be at least 3/4 wide, not the 1/4 like the factory piece, but I'm OK and going with that. Either I will leave it on, or cut it off.
Just thought I would offer it up. I'll post pics when I get it.
Sandblasting this clean tonight
Don't know what they will charge, but I will post pics up so everyone can see, and if we like it, and the price is right, I can get him to make more for mud members. He is making it out of 16 Guage. I know he said he could not bend the little angle on the bottom--it would have to be at least 3/4 wide, not the 1/4 like the factory piece, but I'm OK and going with that. Either I will leave it on, or cut it off.
Just thought I would offer it up. I'll post pics when I get it.
Sandblasting this clean tonight
Nice work. I'll be watching this as I am getting ready to start some of the projects you are getting ready to start.
Also, the Pass side corner has a bunch of holes in it also--Which ones do I need---I know the 4 for the tire carrier, but there are a bunch
Also--Holes along the rin--probably for a soft top at one time, but they are all over. Should I weld them up?
Lastly, where do I get front floors and a trans tunnel for a floor shift. Anybody got any laying around.
I appreciate the help--SANDBLASTING TOMORROW!!!!
One running around the corners were probably for diamond plate.
then the two to the left were for reflectors
then the three were for a cb
and the ones over the wheelwells were for the spare gas tank holders.
Only thing I think that could have been factory are the reflectors.
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- #15
Welding up the holes
Spent the day yesterday sandblasting the rear rail for replacement, and welding up the holes--looks like the pass side tub has the black measles.
By the way--seem to get the question about Bondo--remove it or not--this is why you remove bondo. Below pic shows new rust under the old bondoI heated and scraped off-this would have come through the new paint
Pictures of rear sandblasted, holes welded up and then ground off. I had my grandson hold a copper plate behind the holes to assist in the welding. Still have the drivers side to go!
Spent the day yesterday sandblasting the rear rail for replacement, and welding up the holes--looks like the pass side tub has the black measles.
By the way--seem to get the question about Bondo--remove it or not--this is why you remove bondo. Below pic shows new rust under the old bondoI heated and scraped off-this would have come through the new paint
Pictures of rear sandblasted, holes welded up and then ground off. I had my grandson hold a copper plate behind the holes to assist in the welding. Still have the drivers side to go!
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Looking good wish I had welded the extra holes when I had my body off. I used a roll on bed liner and it was rough texture that holds in alittle dust but if I did it again I would try and find a smoother finishing one
Great Job
Great Job !!!
Nice pictures ....
Great Job !!!
Nice pictures ....
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- #18
Got a little time tonight, so I did a little work on the right rear. I had already cut out the bad part of the corner, but the inner brace was rusty also. It was only in the middle, so I fabbed a piece to go in, marked and drilled the tire carrier holes. Had to make sure all the holes lined up for the tire carrier, so I measured from the top of the tub to the center of the top hole--15 5/8". Then I took a jig saw and cut the center of the brace out.
Now I can weld the piece into the brace. Once that is done, I will mount the tire carrier, make sure it lines up and tack the inner brace to the quarter. Then I can put the piece in for the quarter panel, and drill the holes from the inside out.
Pics are the piece in place, not welded yet. Ran out of time.
Now I can weld the piece into the brace. Once that is done, I will mount the tire carrier, make sure it lines up and tack the inner brace to the quarter. Then I can put the piece in for the quarter panel, and drill the holes from the inside out.
Pics are the piece in place, not welded yet. Ran out of time.
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- Thread starter
- #20
When welding a hole, if you hold copper behind it, your weld won't stick to the copper. Your wire just kind of bounces off. It is much easier to fill holes this way. No wire shooting through, globs falling off, burn through. You CAN stick the weld to the copper if you try hard enough.
I used 1" copper pipe, and pounded it flat
I used 1" copper pipe, and pounded it flat
