Beginning the CRAZY FJ40 Rebuild

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I got some time to do some welding tonight

Welded the repair piece in, ground it down, seam sealed the back, and primed it. Good progress tonight. Everything went smooth. 16GA steel is really easy to weld!

I like to post a lot of pics. I think it helps members understand the process, as well as helps me remember what I did!

WELDED IN
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Ground down the welds



Seam Sealed the inside

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Primed--ready to put on the outside piece

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Finished the Corner

Had a little time today, so I fabbed in the corner repair

Welded in

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Ground down welds

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Then I fabbed in the back panel.

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Ran out of time, so next will be to weld in the back panel, clean up and seal/prime the corner brace.
 
Made some progress today, even though it was 65 here in Minnesota today! Took the top off the rusty cruiser, and went for a drive. Thought I would put some gas in first, as I was not sure the gas gauge worked, because it read E. Well it does--made it about 1/4 mile-ran out of gas!!! Hoofed it back, got a gas can, and filled er up at the station. Gauge reads Full now!

Anyway, all 4 of the seat bracket mounts were rusty, so I cut them out to replace. I really don't need the support underneath, as I am putting a roll bar in, so I will be putting in short seats. I will weld the brackets back up underneath when I am finished welding in the repairs. Also a rust spot on each side where something, maybe a gas can mount used to be. I got 4 of the 6 pieces tacked in--other 2 cut and sized, but not tacked in. That will wait for tomorrow!



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Cool thread. I'm trying to do the same thing. I actually think your PO drilled more holes in your rig than mine did. I forget how many I had but it was over 100. Luckily most were small. I had over 20 just in the windshield frame. That copper trick works good. My grandson is only 2 1/2 so I have to figure a different way to hold it in place.

Rod
 
Well I have been putting off tearing into the front floors, but I decided I would work on it today. The PO had put plates down on the floor, which made the underneath rotten.

I pulled the plates, and had this
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I drilled out about a million spot welde, got the tool box loose and off without damage
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Getting the floor out was another story..Drill/grind/cut/hammer/drill some more. I thought I would never get it loose, but it finally came out in pieces.

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Then I fabbed the new piece in. I have to make another piece for the front of the CCOT piece, which I was not that happy with---they could have made it a little bigger-wider mostly.

Before I finished the drivers side, and started cutting out the pass side, I bolted the tranny hump back in for alignment




I had enough of the pass side piece to make the little front for the drivers side, but not I will need some more 16 GA for the rest of the pass side. Since I got 16GA, I don't like 18 GA any more.

Same for the pass side--cut it out and fabbed the replacement piece. Welding will come later. I need to get more steel for the pass side.

I am going to sandblast out the support channels, and the little floor hump on the pass side, and underneath the outside channel before I weld the repair in. The hump looks bad, but it will be salvagable.
 
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More Progress

Got some time this weekend, so I decided to get the floors in. Last post I had cut out the old rusted area's, and started to fab up the new parts.

Got the toe board part installed first. That had to go in before the main floor



Then I tacked and welded the drivers floor
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Then I welded the tool box back in--sorry, lost the pic for that--then I tacked in and welded the passenger toe board.

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MURPHY'S LAW--You only run out of welding gas on the weekend--couldn't finish the floor.

So I looked around for something I could do that didn't require welding---spotted the roll bar I got from Poser--I can mock that in!

Because this is a 70 FJ40, there were no roll bar supports under the rear wheel wells, so I had to make them. I had some 1/8 steel bent for the brackets underneath, drilled the holes and bolted them up. I still need to put some braces on them for support--but that needs WELDING. So I am done for the day.

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I have this whole week off, not going anywhere, so I plan to get a lot done--Finish welding the pass floor, finish the roll bar install, weld the rest of the holes up in the quarters, some body work, prime the whole tub, and undercoat the bottom.

Agressive plans! Wonder what will go wrong this week to derail me
 
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Finally got the floor finished, and I got the roll bar all mocked up. Since it was not an original roll bar vehicle, I fabbed some 1/8" plated under the fender, and welded braces in the form of a diamond for extra support. Pics are of the braces tacked in. I will be pulling them out tomorrow, finish welding and grind down the welds. Then finish welding up the holes, and I expect to be priming and undercoating the bottom on Friday.

I even went and picked up a bit of paint--Judson Green to shoot a couple of panels, and see if I like it

Last of the floor install--pass side


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Roll bar braces

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Judson Green?

I got the body all primed--post pictures when the fog clears. However, I had the paint store mix up somd 453 judson green. I shot the quarter of the rusty FJ I have to see what it looks like.

Not what I expected. Any comments?


This was listed in the color thread as Rustic Green

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This was listed as Judson Green.

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I think they got them backwards!!!

Comments?
 
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I think your shop got them backwards instead of the color thread. Do a google search. You'll find lots of "land cruiser rustic green" and not much for judson green, but there's this chart:

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I hope your roll bar braces don't take away any tire/articulation clearance.
 
I don't know how they could mess it up. We looked it up on the computer as Judson Green, and it came up as toyota code 453. No other formula was listed.

It is PPG Omni single stage. 43706-Judson Green.

The roll bar braces only stick out 7/8 inch, similar to the factory ones
 
Well--I got where I had planned for the weekend.

Epoxy primed, undercoated, off the stand-still have exterior body work to do, but I will do that after it is on the chassis-On to the chassis!

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Judson Green vs Rustic Green

Well, I went back to the paint store to talk about Greens. I brought up the post with the T453 Judson Green that I had purchased, and showed them the pictures from the site of what is supposed to be T453 Judson Green, what is supposed to be T621 Rustic Green, from the color thread, and the quarter panel I painted with the T453 Jusdon Green they had mixed. They looked at the 3 pics, and said the lighter green from the color thread was a pretty close match to the color they mixed.--T453 Judson Green. Color thread says it is Rustic Green. So he pulled out the books, and looked up T621 Rustic Green, and sure enough, the PPG paint book chip shows it to be darker green. So I told them to mix me up a sample of the PPG Omni Rustic green, and I will paint half the quarter with it to compare. This is what I got

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I don't want to start an arguement, but the picture tells the story--Rustic green is what I painted the front of the quarter, Judson Green is the back.

You be the judge--are the pictures reversed in the color thread. Look like it to me! What about the color chart in the thread--Rustic looks lighter than Judson, but the paint is the other way around
Give me your feedback

Rustic Green from the color thread
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Judson Green from the color thread
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This is my Rustic Green
Mixed according to the Toyota colour code 621

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OK--that I can believe is the darker green I painted. NIce Rig---Is that single stage or 2 stage paint

Jusdon Green is the elusive one. The pic in the color thread for Jusdon Green cannot be correct. Problem is that is the green I want.

I'm off to the paint store again--getting some more green of a different color Range Rover Green
 
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I think I found the green I want. I am going to shoot the quarter panel, and post pics for everyone to see
 
Green I'm going with

Here is the green I found I am going with. Compare it to Jeremy Clarks 40 above. Pic of the cruiser is in the shop--pick of the sample is in the sun--yes there is sun today! but 12 degrees!

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I think you should go with the 70. It will be nicer to have a cruiser with all parts of a similar vintage. Plus our 60 era cruiser's could use the parts! ;)
 
The Range Rover Green looks awesome. I saw it on a 40 that was for sale on Ebay a number of months back. It was my favorite color and it was simliar to a friends rig. Have you looked at the new FJcruiser Army green color? I think the green you chose is better.
 
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