Builds Bean! The Adventure Continues (1987 FJ60) (1 Viewer)

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Had some time to work on the exhaust again yesterday. Finished the y-pipe to muffler section and added some v-bands to the muffler.

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I also put new O2 sensors in the down pipe and gave it some new gaskets. The O2semsors had 160k on them so I figured I’d replace them while I had it all out and apart.

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Will work on hanging the muffler today. I’m a little worried because I bought the biggest walker quiet flow muffler I could find and it is HUGE! I really want a super quiet muffler, but I’m not sure I’ll be able to tuck this up as high as the other one. I’ll figure that out today. At least with the v-band clamps I can easily take it out and replace it if needed.
 
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Had some time to work on the exhaust again yesterday. Finished the y-pipe to muffler section and added some v-bands to the muffler.

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I also put new O2 sensors in the down pipe and gave it some new gaskets. The O2semsors had 160k on them so I figured I’d replace them while I had it all out and apart.

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Will work on hanging the muffler today. I’m a little worried because I bought the biggest walker quiet flow muffler I could find and it is HUGE! I really want a super quiet muffler, but I’m not sure I’ll be able to tuck this up as high as the other one. I’ll figure that out today. At least with the v-band clamps I can easily take it out and replace it if needed.

Nice! I was thinking it was an OEM muffler.
 
Nice! I was thinking it was an OEM muffler.
Those things are pricey!
This was 90 bucks on Amazon and will hopefully do the trick 🤞I think it was meant for some big Dodge truck.

The good news is that I am able to tuck it up as high as the other one. It’s a lot closer to the OEM Aluminum heat shield, but I think it will be okay.
The bad news is the power went out last night and I wasn’t able to finish mounting it.
 
I plumbed in an ‘H’ into the heater circuit today. It’s been something I have been going back and forth on, but ultimately decided I’d do it while I had great access with the fender off.

With the LS family of engines there should be some flow through the heater circuit at all times. This allows the engine to run a little cooler. From what I understand, it’s because the thermostat uses some of this coolant to know how much to open…I could be wrong on that though. With the nature of the Toyota heater valve, if the heater is off, there is no flow through the circuit.

This should drop my temps a little (not that they were very high) but I’m curious to see if this makes a difference. I already had the ‘H’ since I had been planning on doing this a few years ago and never got around to it.

The only downside will be a very slight decrease in heater function and a few more possible leak points. I’ll be sure to update in the future with the performance difference (if any).

I used some of these hose pliers to prevent all the coolant from leaking out. Worked pretty well - I think I only lost a few cups total.
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Here is the ‘H’ pipe I used from Vintage Air:

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Any trend data using the H pipe? I installed mine last summer, saw the vintage air but looked like both pipes were same size?
 
Any trend data using the H pipe? I installed mine last summer, saw the vintage air but looked like both pipes were same size?
No actual trend data, but the engine temps have been great and I haven’t noticed any difference in the function of the heater.

Yes both pipes are 5/8”. I found a molded elbow hose that starts as 3/4” for the water pump connection and necks down to 5/8”.

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It’s the one towards the front of the car in the picture above.
 
No actual trend data, but the engine temps have been great and I haven’t noticed any difference in the function of the heater.

Yes both pipes are 5/8”. I found a molded elbow hose that starts as 3/4” for the water pump connection and necks down to 5/8”.

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It’s the one towards the front of the car in the picture above.
I have read way to much about this... There should be a spot in the water pump that does the same thing already. I was having heat-soaking problems with my LS, so I tried everything, I am running one for redundancy. But the mechanical fan and large aluminum radiator did the trick for me.
 
I have read way to much about this... There should be a spot in the water pump that does the same thing already. I was having heat-soaking problems with my LS, so I tried everything, I am running one for redundancy. But the mechanical fan and large aluminum radiator did the trick for me.

Yea I read a lot about it as well and there were a number of people for and against it. At the end of the day, I decided it couldn’t hurt.

Keep in mind that my engine ran without one in the Bean for 150k miles before I put the H-pipe in…and it never exploded 😉.
I think your right in that the mechanical fan and large AL radiator are the important things.
 
Muffler is hung!
I used the stock mounting brackets and made my an adapter for the rear one. It worked out well. Now all I need to do is build the tail pipe section.

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I modified the front stock hanger by grinding out a small radius. This helps with pipe clearance.
Then I made an adapter for the hanger at the rear of the muffler.
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I’m using these hangers I got on Amazon by Pypes. They are stainless and almost match the size of the OEM ones. One of my OEM hangers on the front mounting location was completely gone so I replaced it with one of these. I had to drill one new hole for it to fit.
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The rear mount and adapter plate.
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Hopefully I can wrap this project up soon!
 
Last year at SAS, I was hearing a clunking in the rear of the truck on Imogene Pass. I went under the truck to find out the rear-most exhaust hanger had snapped where it was bolted to the frame. Luckily @Kleatus was prepared with some baling wire. I’ve been running that wire until I removed it last week!

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I welded it back together and added some reinforcing.
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Now I’m just waiting for it to dry so I can do the tail-pipe section of the exhaust.

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Exhaust complete!!
I only had a minute to start it up and listen, but it sounded really quiet. Will know more when I can take it for a spin. Am out of town this weekend. 😫

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I mad a small heat shield for the section near the airbag. It’s probably not necessary, but why not?
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The tail pipe sticks out a half inch under the bumper…will it get crushed? Time will tell.
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Here is some more info on the pypes exhaust isolaters.
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The pypes are 10mm longer than the OEM.
OEM = 70mm
Pypes = 80mm

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Overall this was a super fun and rewarding project. I’m not going to pretend that my welds are great or anything like that, but I did see a lot of improvement as I went. It was a great project for learning how to weld thin-wall tubing. I have quite a bit of material left, so I’m going to keep practicing!
 
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Looks great. Nice work. I like your routing. I did the same with the intention of moving to the bigger fuel tank like yours in the future. Also digging your heat shield. Thinking I should probably copy that while I still have my welder set up for SS.
 
Finally got the modified sway bar links installed and I think they are going to work out well.
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Also finished up redoing the electrical mounts that I was changing from plastic to metal.

Before:
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The new mounts:
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Had to modify them a bit with some washers for spacers and few welded in studs.

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The final product:
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Finally had a chance to test the exhaust last week after a week long bout of the COVID :rolleyes:

The good news is the exhaust is basically silent - even when you step on it…which is exactly what I wanted!


I also put a set of ALBs (Adaptive Light Brackets) on my knuckles for some better fog lighting. The ALBs allow the lighting to turn when you turn. This was a set of brackets I had left over from when I helped @Cruiser Cult with the design. I paired them with a set of Baja Designs S1 pods in amber. Somehow I picked them up for an absolute steal since they were an open box!
Check out the brackets (for sale) on the Cruiser Cult Website!

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The other small project I tackled was a new take on underhood lighting. I didn’t want to spend any money and had an old KC Cyclone light that I bought years ago and never used. These things are super bright.
I put a strong magnet on the back and covered it in heat shrink. I then put a wire up to the top of the hood with a connector and I put a connector in series at the driver side fender. I then made an ‘extension cord’ of sorts that I could plug the light into. So I can either magnet the light to the top of the hood like you typically see people do or I can plug it into the ‘extension cord’ at the fender and use the light anywhere in the engine bay. I can even take it under the truck.
The extension cord coils and tucks into the spot where the old carb fan used to sit.

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It’s nothing earth shattering, but it will be nice if I need to diagnose or fix something in low light.

We leave on Thursday for a trip to Death Valley. We will be spending Easter with some family in Ventura, Ca and then will head to Death Valley on Monday through Thursday for some camping and trails. It should be a fun time!
 
Got back last week from a week long trip to Death Valley and it was amazing.
Bean did great - no issues with the new exhaust or anything else.

PHOTO DUMP:

The trip down took 2 days and we’re were not prepared for the nightly low of 25F at our first camp spot in south-eastern Oregon on BLM land! We woke up with frost in the RTT!

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Endless roads of Nevada.
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Our second night outside of Death Valley. The stars were crazy!
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The road into the valley with a ‘super bloom’.
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The next night we camped above the Rhyolite ghost town.
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We went to the Racetrack Playa which was a crazy long drive on a super bumpy 27mi long road (each way). I was so thankful for the @torfab coil suspension. It was amazing…very close to the comfort level of my dad’s TRD Pro Tacoma. Although his Tacoma has a few less rattles!

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