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- #341
Hey Roger,
Cant resist your recommendation
Payment sent to SouthBostonFJ40
Cant resist your recommendation
Payment sent to SouthBostonFJ40
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- Thread starter
- #342
Finally ready with the heater.. I used MetricTLC foam/screws kit but ended up cleaning and using the original screws and bushes.
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- #343
Except for the ones at rare axle all other brake lines installed. All the tubes/flare nuts got replaced to stainless. The clips rebuild were shown in one if my earlier posts. They got plastidipped etc.
The frame is now ready to receive the engine, which I'm hoping to receive next week sometimes. I'm not sure if I should install the fuel pipes now, located on the inside of the frame at RH, or when
the engine is already dropped in.
Those are not so fitling as the brake pipes and less stuff in the way is better.. what do you think?
The frame is now ready to receive the engine, which I'm hoping to receive next week sometimes. I'm not sure if I should install the fuel pipes now, located on the inside of the frame at RH, or when
the engine is already dropped in.
Those are not so fitling as the brake pipes and less stuff in the way is better.. what do you think?
Incredible attention to detail! Great thread!
Kerosene is the original dry cleaning fluid
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- #346
Yeah.. we livin the ol'school dream
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- #347
..prefer doing it right or not do it entirely, your compliment is appreciated
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- #348
Heater blower rebuilt.. MetricTLC seal kit, CityRacer resistor hardware, the rest is me.. ah and no paint on the housing! Only 1200 grit sand paper under running water to get back original bakelite grayish colour.. don't ask about the water bill
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- #349
I have got the famous Cygnus White (012) mixed for my roof and headlights frame. This is quite common knowledge but I will soon share the formula for the "troubled colors" of the rims' gray and the dash/bumper/etc. metallic/gray. Those colours are despite the original toyota code no longer available. My painter had the color chips from the olden days and managed to find them.. soon will show and share so you can get it mixed at your respective local paint shop.
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- #350
Finally .. engine is done and ready to be mounted. I've been thinking of how to carry the newly painted engine home and finally decided to take the frame for a ride and give it some fresh air.
Lee his son Dan and myself had it in in 5minutes.. Lee is highly recommended for WA 40' users who want their mechanical jobs done at oldschool ways. The gearbox overhaul has been mentioned earlier. There is a chaos and inconsistency of how this resto evolves with various parts of rhe vehicle being worked. Its not in order of how cars would generally built, but that tells you that I'm not a pro only an enthusiast.
Anyway this 2F is done and shining like a gem.
Lee his son Dan and myself had it in in 5minutes.. Lee is highly recommended for WA 40' users who want their mechanical jobs done at oldschool ways. The gearbox overhaul has been mentioned earlier. There is a chaos and inconsistency of how this resto evolves with various parts of rhe vehicle being worked. Its not in order of how cars would generally built, but that tells you that I'm not a pro only an enthusiast.
Anyway this 2F is done and shining like a gem.
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Seeing the steering box reminded of me of one the things that I loved about the troopy. When I was living in Sydney, I scouted out a former NSW bush vehicle - 1984 troopy with 19ks on the clock (this was 1996) for a Japanese friend who was at Uni NSW with me. Pristine. He was a grad student going to live in the Kimberley at an Aboriginal settlement for a year and needed a vehicle. He had only had his license for a couple of months and had never driven off road, so he asked if I would drive with him from Sydney to Darwin and show him how to drive along the way. Of course I said yes. Anyway, the steering box is great because it's adjustable - tighten up the steering for on-road driving and loosen it for going over the rough stuff. Simple and brilliant. Driving that vehicle is why I own an FJ40 today. Sadly, my friend died of cancer at the age of 35.
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- #352
Nice story..
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- #353
Both prop. shafts baLanced, stripped/painted, fitted new oem spiders and finally installed with oem bolts sets.
What a great find.. and your work on it is insprireing. Its been a bit slow going for me, ( on my 77 fj40 )but I want to do the job right (or as right as my skills and budget will allow). I'm about ready to powder coat my first batch of parts from under the hood. Hopefully before the end of the Month I will make the first attempt at getting it to fire up in over 25years.
Keep the porn coming!
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- #357
Thanks Venz,
I love powdercoating, its very solid and gives you the everlasting feel of whatever part you coat.
These old girls almost always have surface rust and after sand blasting your steel surface is often pitted. The question is what you do with those uneven surfaces.. only paint or use bog and paint? I love powdercoating as it creates a covering film to absorb these unevenness. Some parts I have nos and powdercoated old and I prefer the old with powdercoaring. Some voices will tell you that it can chip or cant be repaired.. bull dust!! First I can hardly take it off with an angle grinder and I need to tap all threads as bolts wouldn't go in otherwise. Lastly if you need to repair it well just ask your painter what base paint will match and its easy as.
I'm fortunate that I work with a couple of great guys who are also car freaks. Our shop at work has slowly been acquiring tools that I can use. (plasma cutter, powder coating equip etc). Your praise for the powdercoat is great to read. I have a question, I've been media blasting parts to get them ready for a batch of powder coating, and I have noticed that many of the pieces seen to quickly show some orange hazing (I've heard it referred to as flash rust) is there a good method to prevent this that will not interfere with the coating process?
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- #359
Well that is a slight problem to me.. you should not allow that to happen. When you blast your steel you should blow off any excess media and prime and coat immediately. Alternatively if you unable to do so and you have some subsequent time prior to coating you should oil the raw blasted surfaces to avoid oxidation caused by air humidity or touched by hands.
If I can't straight away get my parts powder coated I often spray those parts with any oil spray. However you need to note that those parts will need to be degreased before starting the powdercoating process.
Now, if you already have some rust developing on your parts the only way to do is to sandblast them again. It won't be as thorough as for the first time but you should get rid of every rust trace before having it powdercoated.
If you powdercoat on top of your rusted surface the adhesion of the coat will be negatively altered in other words your coat may peel or flake off over time.
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- #360
Keep an eye out next week's peep show continues with engine accessory parts..
