Builds Barn Find 1983 FJ45 Troopcarrier

[koxfarm]

Some fantastic attention to details you have there.

I do have some questions for you though. First, I don't think there is a wrong answer to these question, but curiosity is getting the best of me. I see that the ball on the end of the axle housing, and the complete axle and birfield have been painted. I'm used to seeing them left unpainted. Do you have a reason, besides your extreme attention to detail? Also, there is a grease zerk on the outer end of the axle stub, which I've never seen before. Is this to push grease into the inside of the birfield?

Don

Very observant you are, Sir!
Firstly, you can immagine that after loosing every (repeat - every) bolt and screw and nut there must be a good reason I do in every detail how I put them back.
Ok, the knuckle ball.. those balls always pitted and worn off by the seal. I wanted to somehow take it back to original size and surface for better sealing. I wanted to put on a hard chrome coating like its used on the hydraulic rams but they couldn't do it partially only the whole piece of axle so I was looking at other options and ended up powder coating it. The epoxy primer filled the pitting and the top coat black is an extremely wear resistant hard coat. I have used the TG knuckle ball seal which sealed the ball so tight as if it was a submarine hatch.
The zerk at the shaft is a very cool new product. It is the RCV gun-drilled shaft so I can inject grease right to the CV joint without taking the whole assembly apart.
That is why I started with an excuse that I am to only use oem except if there's something is better than the oem.

 

[koxfarm]

Some fantastic attention to details you have there.

I do have some questions for you though. First, I don't think there is a wrong answer to these question, but curiosity is getting the best of me. I see that the ball on the end of the axle housing, and the complete axle and birfield have been painted. I'm used to seeing them left unpainted. Do you have a reason, besides your extreme attention to detail? Also, there is a grease zerk on the outer end of the axle stub, which I've never seen before. Is this to push grease into the inside of the birfield?

Don

And one more thing.. the axle shafts and birf were not painted. (?) the RCV gun-drilled shafts come in black. I must admit, those RCV shafts are so nice it is a pity that the axle house is not transparent

 

[handcannon]

[QUOTE="koxfarm, post: 10838498, member: 115684"
Ok, the knuckle ball.. those balls always pitted and worn off by the seal. I wanted to somehow take it back to original size and surface for better sealing. I wanted to put on a hard chrome coating like its used on the hydraulic rams but they couldn't do it partially only the whole piece of axle so I was looking at other options and ended up powder coating it. The epoxy primer filled the pitting and the top coat black is an extremely wear resistant hard coat. I have used the TG knuckle ball seal which sealed the ball so tight as if it was a submarine hatch.
The zerk at the shaft is a very cool new product. It is the RCV gun-drilled shaft so I can inject grease right to the CV joint without taking the whole assembly apart.
[/QUOTE]

Good reasoning on the knuckle ball! Will be interesting to see how that works over a bit of time.

I have never seen a zerk situated like that, but I really like the idea. Somebody was thinking outside the box.

So the coating on the axle shaft and birf are similar to bluing on a sidearm. Does this help with discoloration/rust when water gets inside the housing? I know that bluing doesn't completely stop rust on sidearms, but it does slow it down some.

Don

 

[2fpower]

For what it is worth, I filled my knuckel balls that were pitting really bad with JBweld, sanded them down, then shot with epoxy primer and john deere blitz black several years ago, and they are holding up great. No concerns of rusting at all now. Great fix and looks awesome.

 

[handcannon]

For what it is worth, I filled my knuckly balls that were pitting really bad with JBweld, sanded them down, then shot with epoxy primer and john deere blitz black several years ago, and they are holding up great. No concerns of rusting at all now. Great fix and looks awesome.

Good evidence there!

Don

 

[koxfarm]

[QUOTE="koxfarm, post: 10838498, member: 115684"
Ok, the knuckle ball.. those balls always pitted and worn off by the seal. I wanted to somehow take it back to original size and surface for better sealing. I wanted to put on a hard chrome coating like its used on the hydraulic rams but they couldn't do it partially only the whole piece of axle so I was looking at other options and ended up powder coating it. The epoxy primer filled the pitting and the top coat black is an extremely wear resistant hard coat. I have used the TG knuckle ball seal which sealed the ball so tight as if it was a submarine hatch.
The zerk at the shaft is a very cool new product. It is the RCV gun-drilled shaft so I can inject grease right to the CV joint without taking the whole assembly apart.

Good reasoning on the knuckle ball! Will be interesting to see how that works over a bit of time.

I have never seen a zerk situated like that, but I really like the idea. Somebody was thinking outside the box.

So the coating on the axle shaft and birf are similar to bluing on a sidearm. Does this help with discoloration/rust when water gets inside the housing? I know that bluing doesn't completely stop rust on sidearms, but it does slow it down some.

Don[/QUOTE]
The RCV axles came with a kind of anodised surface. I am not sure exactly what that could be but is different from the phosphate finish used on gun parts. It is more like a black chrome or a black stainless but definitely looks rust proof to me.

I expect overtime will remain the same as there is no any pressure or extreme friction on the seal side of the ball. All the action is within the ball and at the bearings. The problem originates from the oem seal which is made of felts as it retains water.
Sealing the ball with rubber is the way instead the felts. TG has the solution with a double lip heavy duty nitrile rubber seal and a matching stone guard to keep thicker rubber seal firm in place.
This improvement is the solution to keep water out of the balls. If I could I would've done the balls with hard chrome coating but the people I tried couldn't do it, the paint is a second best solution. Chipping the paint integrity on the ball is a possibility for negative outcome in future. However, circular shape is one of the most resistant shape against impact with increased surface cohesion as opposed to linear surfaces. This is my tuppence and odds to hope when mitigating the risk of that random flying gravel against the painted ball

 

[2fpower]

That was a good discussion.

and Bob's yer uncle.

 

[gmac]

I have set the rr bearings preload and finished the drums. Also done the brake load sensor with the oem kit. Then the swaybars. I had to order new bolts as the steel inserts of the bushings were cold welded to the bolts. This time I use anti sease to avoid the whole thing to freeze with rust. So oem bolts and mackay bushes all three.

View attachment 1399239

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the cable looking thing lying on the ground, that you later on installed. Connected between the axle and the frame.

Beautiful build.
Thanks
Guy

 

[2fpower]

I believe that is a Proportioning valve. LSPV on 80 series. Load sensing proportioning valve.

 

[cult45]

Nice one KF! Just so you're aware, those butyl products do work [ex-insulation industry specialist here]. But for a less permanent option a yoga mat or two can be cut into modular pieces and semi-permanently adhered in place. It does a great job, is cheap as chips, can be hosed down or removed for proper cleaning of the floors. And of course you can drop one of @Racer65's floor mats back on top

 

[waiting for time]

Good reasoning on the knuckle ball! Will be interesting to see how that works over a bit of time.

I have never seen a zerk situated like that, but I really like the idea. Somebody was thinking outside the box.

So the coating on the axle shaft and birf are similar to bluing on a sidearm. Does this help with discoloration/rust when water gets inside the housing? I know that bluing doesn't completely stop rust on sidearms, but it does slow it down some.

Don

The RCV axles came with a kind of anodised surface. I am not sure exactly what that could be but is different from the phosphate finish used on gun parts. It is more like a black chrome or a black stainless but definitely looks rust proof to me.

I expect overtime will remain the same as there is no any pressure or extreme friction on the seal side of the ball. All the action is within the ball and at the bearings. The problem originates from the oem seal which is made of felts as it retains water.
Sealing the ball with rubber is the way instead the felts. TG has the solution with a double lip heavy duty nitrile rubber seal and a matching stone guard to keep thicker rubber seal firm in place.
This improvement is the solution to keep water out of the balls. If I could I would've done the balls with hard chrome coating but the people I tried couldn't do it, the paint is a second best solution. Chipping the paint integrity on the ball is a possibility for negative outcome in future. However, circular shape is one of the most resistant shape against impact with increased surface cohesion as opposed to linear surfaces. This is my tuppence and odds to hope when mitigating the risk of that random flying gravel against the painted ball [/QUOTE]

What about laser cladding, you can apply a variety of materials to a metal surface. It adds material to worn (bearing) surfaces with a chosen hardness and can be machined to fit.

 

[waiting for time]

 

[koxfarm]

That was the load sensing propotional valve LSPV
Toyota was ahead of its time introducing this addition. It is common at trailers and trucks to have a proportional increase of brake force to the load carried by the vehicle. Same apply here.
LSVP topic had been discussed in depths previously on mud.

 

[koxfarm]

Awesome!
This is the reason we must keep all old oem parts that were prone to heavy wear. Soon it will come a time that nothing will be available but new technologies like this laser cladding will allow oem equivalent refurbishment.

 

[koxfarm]

Nice one KF! Just so you're aware, those butyl products do work [ex-insulation industry specialist here]. But for a less permanent option a yoga mat or two can be cut into modular pieces and semi-permanently adhered in place. It does a great job, is cheap as chips, can be hosed down or removed for proper cleaning of the floors. And of course you can drop one of @Racer65's floor mats back on top

That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing. I am a huge fan of @Racer65 especially after the firewall grommet coming out so perfectly. I do have the front mat in immaculately preserved state, but the cargo mat will surely need some extra attention and creativity.

 

[koxfarm]

That was a good discussion.

and Bob's yer uncle.

Yeah Matey,
Bob's your uncle
Btw, do you know where that "byu" comes from?

 

[koxfarm]

Voila'

 

[2fpower]

Yeah Matey,
Bob's your uncle
Btw, do you know where that "byu" comes from?

Do tell…..

 

[Vossie]

Voila'

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xxx rated porn...

love the build

 

[gmac]

That was the load sensing propotional valve LSPV
Toyota was ahead of its time introducing this addition. It is common at trailers and trucks to have a proportional increase of brake force to the load carried by the vehicle. Same apply here.
LSVP topic had been discussed in depths previously on mud.

Thanks for the response. Is this something that came originally with the Troopies, or was it an option? I have an Australian 1982 Troopy, and I see I have provisions for it on the axle, but do not have the LSPV. I'll go and so some research, but do they really work well? Do they really help on an old Troopy? I have had mine pretty loaded on long trips, and will be doing longer trips with heavy loads.
Thanks
Guy