Back in the game
- Thread starter lowtops
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I can't recall the source of this, or verify accuracy, but it's something to compare to. The schematic I mentioned in the earlier post is a 1978 from the link David posted so I won't bother to link it here.
- Thread starter
- #23
John and David, Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. I was able to print off the schematics and track down my headlight issue. Turned out it was the dimmer switch contacts in the steering wheel. Some fine sand paper and several hours of diagnostics are all it took.
It took way too long to for me to pin point the problem but my electrical skills are getting better. At least it's fixed.
On to the next item on the list.
It took way too long to for me to pin point the problem but my electrical skills are getting better. At least it's fixed.On to the next item on the list.
- Thread starter
- #24
More progress. I started base-lining today. I checked the rear diff fluid, it was low and came out like sludge with a few pieces of metal on the drain plug. Nothing too alarming. I had some Mobil 1 synthetic 75w-90 gear oil and decided to use that. I'm wondering if it will leak, the rear diff seal looks suspect. Front diff fluid was good even though its weeping out of the birfs. I did not change the front diff fluid since I plan to rebuild the birfs soon. Birf grease was low as well. Then I greased all the zirc fittings.
I also changed the oil and have a question. Every Toyota I have ever owned the oil filter is upside down or angled and this usually causes some oil dripping down on the front diff leaving me with some clean up to do. I ALWAYS use Toyota filters on everything. When I pulled the oil filter (NAPA GOLD) on the 40 there was very little oil dripping out, it was empty. Is this normal?
It seems I read somewhere that Toyota filters hold some oil in them, presumably to help at start-up. Is this why I have always have a mess to clean up?
I used Rotella 15w-40 and the oil pressure rose from approx. 50 to 60psi. There is an after market oil pressure gauge installed, not sure of the accuracy. What kind of oil pressure are you guys seeing with the 2F?
This is off topic but its my thread so
. One thing I did not expect about owning a 40 is the smell. When I go out to the garage the first thing I notice is the smell of old oil, old grease, and gasoline. It reminds me of my grandfathers old tractor. Brings back good memories. I'm enjoying this 40!
I also changed the oil and have a question. Every Toyota I have ever owned the oil filter is upside down or angled and this usually causes some oil dripping down on the front diff leaving me with some clean up to do. I ALWAYS use Toyota filters on everything. When I pulled the oil filter (NAPA GOLD) on the 40 there was very little oil dripping out, it was empty. Is this normal?
It seems I read somewhere that Toyota filters hold some oil in them, presumably to help at start-up. Is this why I have always have a mess to clean up?
I used Rotella 15w-40 and the oil pressure rose from approx. 50 to 60psi. There is an after market oil pressure gauge installed, not sure of the accuracy. What kind of oil pressure are you guys seeing with the 2F?
This is off topic but its my thread so
. One thing I did not expect about owning a 40 is the smell. When I go out to the garage the first thing I notice is the smell of old oil, old grease, and gasoline. It reminds me of my grandfathers old tractor. Brings back good memories. I'm enjoying this 40!
I *think* that the NAPA Gold filter has an anti-drainback valve that holds oil in where the OEM model does not. The OEM filter that is base up on my 3B was essentially empty when I pulled it 5 minutes after shutting the engine down
Both the gold and the yota filter hold oil for weeks in mine, same filter as the 2F
SOME napa gold (ie Wix) filters have anti drain valves. In most cases wix has a part number for both with and without. Their website has a database to find out.
I don't wish to open another famous oil pressure can of worms but suffice it to say your numbers are good. I CAN get 70 psi in my small block using thick oil but it is important to keep the oil thin enough it can flow! Remember, oil is how heat is removed from bearings. I use 10-30, get 50 psi and prefer that over the higher pressure.
Post more pics!
Rice
I don't wish to open another famous oil pressure can of worms but suffice it to say your numbers are good. I CAN get 70 psi in my small block using thick oil but it is important to keep the oil thin enough it can flow! Remember, oil is how heat is removed from bearings. I use 10-30, get 50 psi and prefer that over the higher pressure.
Post more pics!
Rice
- Thread starter
- #29
Ok, Ok more pics.
Lets call this one the good, the bad, and the ugly
THE GOOD:
I took the rubber mat out because it has a jute backing that holds water. I may put it back in later without the backing or find something else to insulate the mat. I was able to get a good look at the floor pans. All is good except for one small hole behind the drivers side A-pillar, can't see it in the pics. No, not the drain hole. The tranny cover needs some love, it's missing some bolts which is causing a 1/2" gap between the tranny cover and floor pan. This gap is at the back of the cover under the console, so you can't see it in this pic. I'll be addressing this soon.
Here is the passenger floor pan. In this pic you can also see I installed a new T-case shift boot. More on that below.
Next is a pic of the steering column cover. I replaced it as well. When I removed the column cover last week to diagnose the headlight issue I noticed it was being held on by 2 screws. I replaced the column cover and T-case shift boot mainly to try out Cruiser Corps and see how things went on some small parts, plus they were having free shipping on orders over $50. I also bought an OEM key blank from them. BTW, all went well with Cruiser Corps. As you can see the steering wheel is rough looking especially now that the column cover is new. The steering wheel has cracks all over and the horn buttons don't work. I may cover it and try to service the horn buttons but in the meantime I am keeping an eye on a few on ebay.
Now for THE BAD:
The last time I drove it the turn signals quit working as I turned into the neighborhood so today I dove back into the wiring. This pic shows the turn signal wire harness under the dash. This connection was wrapped with electrical tape to hold it together. As you can see most of the connector has broken off. The female end looks similar. I very carefully pulled each wire out of the connector and cleaned the spades. This worked, for now. I need to research Coolermans site and see if he can source the connector housings. Eric has graciously offered to look over my wiring and advise me on what to do next.
Now for THE UGLY:
I brushed against the rear passenger reflector and noticed it was loose. So I tried to tighten up the bolts. Of course they were rusted and snapped off which revealed this...
So someday soon I will be patching this. The good thing is I have a garage so this will not get worse before I can repair it. Right now I don't want to start any projects that will take it off the road for any length of time. I'm still in the shake down phase and having a good time doing it!
Lets call this one the good, the bad, and the ugly
THE GOOD:
I took the rubber mat out because it has a jute backing that holds water. I may put it back in later without the backing or find something else to insulate the mat. I was able to get a good look at the floor pans. All is good except for one small hole behind the drivers side A-pillar, can't see it in the pics. No, not the drain hole. The tranny cover needs some love, it's missing some bolts which is causing a 1/2" gap between the tranny cover and floor pan. This gap is at the back of the cover under the console, so you can't see it in this pic. I'll be addressing this soon.
Here is the passenger floor pan. In this pic you can also see I installed a new T-case shift boot. More on that below.
Next is a pic of the steering column cover. I replaced it as well. When I removed the column cover last week to diagnose the headlight issue I noticed it was being held on by 2 screws. I replaced the column cover and T-case shift boot mainly to try out Cruiser Corps and see how things went on some small parts, plus they were having free shipping on orders over $50. I also bought an OEM key blank from them. BTW, all went well with Cruiser Corps. As you can see the steering wheel is rough looking especially now that the column cover is new. The steering wheel has cracks all over and the horn buttons don't work. I may cover it and try to service the horn buttons but in the meantime I am keeping an eye on a few on ebay.
Now for THE BAD:
The last time I drove it the turn signals quit working as I turned into the neighborhood so today I dove back into the wiring. This pic shows the turn signal wire harness under the dash. This connection was wrapped with electrical tape to hold it together. As you can see most of the connector has broken off. The female end looks similar. I very carefully pulled each wire out of the connector and cleaned the spades. This worked, for now. I need to research Coolermans site and see if he can source the connector housings. Eric has graciously offered to look over my wiring and advise me on what to do next.
Now for THE UGLY:
I brushed against the rear passenger reflector and noticed it was loose. So I tried to tighten up the bolts. Of course they were rusted and snapped off which revealed this...
Check with Shane (coinoperated40) for that turn signal switch. He is parting out an FJ62 and I'd bet that the part is interchangeable with the 40 series.
On the wiring issues....You are working with a rig that is 27 years old and obviously has some electrical issues. You WILL have more. You can get a replacement wiring harness for right around $300.00 Depending on your skill level and condition of the wiring in the rig it will take you a day or so to pull out the old and put back the new.
This is time and money well spent. Electrical gremlins will drive you nuts . Old wires , solenoids, light buckets etc corrode and wires become brittle over time. So you can either chase these gremlins or take a pro active stance and wipe them out in one fell swoop.
This is time and money well spent. Electrical gremlins will drive you nuts . Old wires , solenoids, light buckets etc corrode and wires become brittle over time. So you can either chase these gremlins or take a pro active stance and wipe them out in one fell swoop.
- Thread starter
- #32
So the past couple of weeks I have been collecting parts and researching for future projects. I was able to get some things done though.
At some point a PO removed the door mount mirrors and replaced them with windshield mount. I don't like these mirrors and was able to find some door mount mirrors locally.
Of course the capture nuts inside the door were painted over so I had to chase all of them before install. Better to be painted over than rusted over.
Instead of sourcing and buying gaskets I just made my own.
Now I can see everything behind me.
More to come...
At some point a PO removed the door mount mirrors and replaced them with windshield mount. I don't like these mirrors and was able to find some door mount mirrors locally.
Of course the capture nuts inside the door were painted over so I had to chase all of them before install. Better to be painted over than rusted over.
Now I can see everything behind me.
More to come...
- Thread starter
- #33
The rubber bumper pads on top of the bib were shot and the bib itself was about 1/4" lower than both fenders which means that the hood rested on the fenders which rubbed the paint off and started the rust process. So I took some cushion I had leftover from installing a tonneau cover on my truck and raised the bib to level with the fenders. No more rubbing. I will deal with the rust later.
New v-belt and radiator cap. My alternator mount is bent and not exactly lined up with the other pulleys causing premature belt wear. For now I will just keep an eye on the belt wear and carry a spare.
I found a hens tooth!!
I also picked up one of these...
Last but not least I actually joined the ONSC after over a decade of lurking. @GLTHFJ60 wheres my sticker!
New v-belt and radiator cap. My alternator mount is bent and not exactly lined up with the other pulleys causing premature belt wear. For now I will just keep an eye on the belt wear and carry a spare.
I found a hens tooth!!
I also picked up one of these...
Last but not least I actually joined the ONSC after over a decade of lurking. @GLTHFJ60 wheres my sticker!
Last but not least I actually joined the ONSC after over a decade of lurking. @GLTHFJ60 wheres my sticker!
Working on it!! Welcome to the club!!- Thread starter
- #35
Transmission hump refurb.
So next on the list was to close the gap at the trans hump. The hump was missing a few bolts, a few did not have washers and were useless and a few were broken off completely. Based on a spreadsheet I found here on MUD I knew what size bolts to order for the trans hump. I only needed 16 bolts but I ordered 100 each 6mmX1.0 bolts, washers and lock washers from BoltDepot.com. I have used these in several places on the 40 already. Its nice having new bolts.
The first order of business was to remove the seats and brackets. Then I decided to remove the gas tank. I knew from looking at the drain hole underneath that it was going to be rusty and I wanted to see how bad. Of course there was approx. 10 gallons of gas in the tank to be drained. When I removed the tank someone had installed an inner tube between the tank and pan as a bumper/spacer. No pics of the inner tube but here is what I saw once the tank was removed.
Once I saw this level of rust I moved on to the trans hump so I could marinate on how to move forward with the rust. In the above pic the trans hump has already been fixed. I had to drill and chase 4 nuts and of course the remainder were chased. I also made a gasket for the hump. Sorry no pics my camera died that day, but it came out very well. This will make future trans hump removal much easier.
Now back to the rust remedy. The whole time I was trying to figure out how to move forward, @GLTHFJ60 sig line kept popping up in my mind, "If you don't have time to do it right, then when do you have time to do it over?" With that in mind some of you will probably boo and hiss my decision so I will go ahead a post the finished pic and explain after that.
I decided the best course of action right now was to POR-15 over it and as an added stroke of genius
I added a layer of fiberglass to the POR-15.
This decision was not an easy one. I have the ability to weld in a new pan but there are not many options for pan replacement parts, they are not cheap, and that would add a lot of down time to what started as a trans hump repair. The fiberglass should add some structure and it will be out of sight. I will keep an eye on this and at some point in the future I will weld in a new pan. More to come on this project...
A little work on the drivers side floor pan as well.
At first glance there is not much to look at in this pic, but the three bolts near the top of the pic hold the jack in place. The three near the middle of the pic hold the tool bag. Two of the top three bolts and one of the middle three bolts were broken. I tried a few of those easy outs, those things are junk. I have never been able to make one work. So instead I had to carefully drill each one out so I could save the original threads. Then I just installed bolts to close the holes. Eventually I will pick up a factory jack and tool bag. When I do the bolt holes will be ready.
Finally, I picked up some aftermarket plastic door cards from @Roxx and installed those today. These things are pretty nice. My factory door cards were a little warped. This is one of those things I think Toyota should have done from the factory.
So next on the list was to close the gap at the trans hump. The hump was missing a few bolts, a few did not have washers and were useless and a few were broken off completely. Based on a spreadsheet I found here on MUD I knew what size bolts to order for the trans hump. I only needed 16 bolts but I ordered 100 each 6mmX1.0 bolts, washers and lock washers from BoltDepot.com. I have used these in several places on the 40 already. Its nice having new bolts.
The first order of business was to remove the seats and brackets. Then I decided to remove the gas tank. I knew from looking at the drain hole underneath that it was going to be rusty and I wanted to see how bad. Of course there was approx. 10 gallons of gas in the tank to be drained. When I removed the tank someone had installed an inner tube between the tank and pan as a bumper/spacer. No pics of the inner tube but here is what I saw once the tank was removed.
Once I saw this level of rust I moved on to the trans hump so I could marinate on how to move forward with the rust. In the above pic the trans hump has already been fixed. I had to drill and chase 4 nuts and of course the remainder were chased. I also made a gasket for the hump. Sorry no pics my camera died that day, but it came out very well. This will make future trans hump removal much easier.
Now back to the rust remedy. The whole time I was trying to figure out how to move forward, @GLTHFJ60 sig line kept popping up in my mind, "If you don't have time to do it right, then when do you have time to do it over?" With that in mind some of you will probably boo and hiss my decision so I will go ahead a post the finished pic and explain after that.
I decided the best course of action right now was to POR-15 over it and as an added stroke of genius
I added a layer of fiberglass to the POR-15. This decision was not an easy one. I have the ability to weld in a new pan but there are not many options for pan replacement parts, they are not cheap, and that would add a lot of down time to what started as a trans hump repair. The fiberglass should add some structure and it will be out of sight. I will keep an eye on this and at some point in the future I will weld in a new pan. More to come on this project...A little work on the drivers side floor pan as well.
At first glance there is not much to look at in this pic, but the three bolts near the top of the pic hold the jack in place. The three near the middle of the pic hold the tool bag. Two of the top three bolts and one of the middle three bolts were broken. I tried a few of those easy outs, those things are junk. I have never been able to make one work. So instead I had to carefully drill each one out so I could save the original threads. Then I just installed bolts to close the holes. Eventually I will pick up a factory jack and tool bag. When I do the bolt holes will be ready.
Finally, I picked up some aftermarket plastic door cards from @Roxx and installed those today. These things are pretty nice. My factory door cards were a little warped. This is one of those things I think Toyota should have done from the factory.
Has Rafael got any more of those door cards? Mine are shot.
I dont. Those are part of me selling everything that i have from my 78 that doesnt fit the 79. I bought those the sor.com and didnt even open them. More part for sale to come. I am letting everything go but what fits my cars and i will need in the future.
Can you pls give some background on adding fiberglass to the por15?
I haven't heard of that before and sounds interesting. Does it strengthen it? My pan under my tank was and is a mess, makes yours look new. I wire-wheeled and painted the Swiss cheese to be addressed properly at a future date... That todo list for that future date grows by he day.
Your rig looks great! As does the upgrades and fixes etc.
I haven't heard of that before and sounds interesting. Does it strengthen it? My pan under my tank was and is a mess, makes yours look new. I wire-wheeled and painted the Swiss cheese to be addressed properly at a future date... That todo list for that future date grows by he day.
Your rig looks great! As does the upgrades and fixes etc.
- Thread starter
- #40
@joyRidaz
Honestly, I would not consider this to be an option if I were you. You have already been in there and know how bad it is. If you go back in there be prepared to replace the pan. I took this approach because I already had the POR-15 and a guy at the local auto paint supply recommended the fiberglass. Also I could finish this in a day and keep moving. Now that I know how bad it is I will keep an eye on it and if it gets worse I will have a new pan ready when I go back in there. This is not a proper floor pan repair.
To answer your questions, after fully cured it did add some structure. Over the drain hole I could still flex the fiberglass a little but I cut a new drain hole. The smaller rust holes did not flex with moderate pressure. In a swiss cheese situation I would not expect much structure. You would be better off installing the fiber glass correctly than what I did. All I did was brush on the POR-15 and, while wet, lay in the fiberglass. Then immediately brush POR-15 over the fiberglass. I let this cure and then brushed a final coat over it all.
HTH
Honestly, I would not consider this to be an option if I were you. You have already been in there and know how bad it is. If you go back in there be prepared to replace the pan. I took this approach because I already had the POR-15 and a guy at the local auto paint supply recommended the fiberglass. Also I could finish this in a day and keep moving. Now that I know how bad it is I will keep an eye on it and if it gets worse I will have a new pan ready when I go back in there. This is not a proper floor pan repair.
To answer your questions, after fully cured it did add some structure. Over the drain hole I could still flex the fiberglass a little but I cut a new drain hole. The smaller rust holes did not flex with moderate pressure. In a swiss cheese situation I would not expect much structure. You would be better off installing the fiber glass correctly than what I did. All I did was brush on the POR-15 and, while wet, lay in the fiberglass. Then immediately brush POR-15 over the fiberglass. I let this cure and then brushed a final coat over it all.
HTH