Back in the game

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I was wondering how you got the fiberglass to stick to the POR. That stuff is like Teflon when it dries. So you basically used POR as a resin substitute. Interesting. Who knows, it may work better than you think. I agree though that it is not a proper repair. It is, however, a buyer of time.
 
I got everything buttoned up today and did a 45 minute shake down run. The trans hump fix made a noticeable decrease in sound, heat, and fumes. I also hooked up the evaporator system to the gas tank and charcoal canister. The inside of the gas tank looks very clean, no rust. I spaced the tank with foam strips so that the tank does not touch the bottom of the pan. That will keep the tank off of the weakest part of the pan and I assume that's how the factory did it. I really want to replace some of the rubber fuel lines with hard lines and install a quality fuel filter but I will wait until I swap carbs to do that.

Now I need to stop some leaks. Oil pan gasket, birfs, trans/TC, and rear pinion seal all leak. So basically the entire drivetrain needs new seals. I think I'll start with a birf rebuild. I've done this twice before and feel comfortable doing it.

Question:
My Holley carb only has a gas supply line, no return line. My fuel pump only has supply in and out to the carb, no return to the tank. I want to swap out a carb from an '83 2F. This carb does not have a return line either, only supply. So will my fuel pump work? Why does my system work now without a return line?

Thanks,
 
lowtops said:
Now I need to stop some leaks. Oil pan gasket, birfs, trans/TC, and rear pinion seal all leak. So basically the entire drivetrain needs new seals. I think I'll start with a birf rebuild. I've done this twice before and feel comfortable doing it.
Click to expand...

I have most of the same leaks but have been too lazy and cheap to fix them. Let me know when you plan to rebuild the knuckles. I'll volunteer to be the DPW again.
 
The fiberglass in the POR is an interesting idea. The cloth will only be as rigid as the POR so I would not count on much more that a little strength from it. I had a 78 CJ7 when I lived in the Keys and I glassed the entire inside of the tub with good results. It cleaned up the tub on the inside for sure but even with proper matt and resin it only adds a moderate amount of structural strength.
 
lowtops said:
I'm up for a HAMOM. If working on my junk, I'd rather host. That way if something goes wrong I'm already home.
Click to expand...

Go ahead and announce it! Read some of the past hamom threads to get an idea as to what the format is, and that's about it!
 
So the HAMOM went very well yesterday.

The completed list of items:
Front birfs rebuilt
Rear pinion seal replaced
Fuel lines replaced

The rear pinion yoke(?) was grooved pretty bad that left us with a choice of a speedy sleeve or replacement. I decided to replace it. So if anyone has a rear pinion yoke in their stash they want to sell let me know. SOR has them and I will check with Toyota.
Rear pinion yoke.webp


I also want to show off the fuel lines Jason and David installed. These lines are beautiful. You guys did a great job. These lines came from Rainman. Evidently they are the correct length and have flares on them but the bending is left to the end user. Which makes sense due to variations in cruisers but I did not know. That left Jason with the task of correctly bending these lines. He also added a rubber fuel line wrap as a bumper against the frame.
brake lines.webp


At the end of the HAMOM I had Johnny and Jason look over my oil leaks and advise. Johnny pulled the inspection cover from the bell housing and showed me where indeed the trans is leaking from the front gasket but the RMS is not leaking. So we did not pull the trans. I will need to pull at some point in the future, maybe next winter. I want to running this spring and summer, so I will deal with the leaks for awhile. I still need to replace the oil pan gasket, I will think this over and decide later.
My next step is to replace the yoke and put the driveshafts back in and run it for awhile.
 
lowtops said:
I also want to show off the fuel lines Jason and David installed. These lines are beautiful. You guys did a great job. These lines came from Rainman. Evidently they are the correct length and have flares on them but the bending is left to the end user. Which makes sense due to variations in cruisers but I did not know. That left Jason with the task of correctly bending these lines. He also added a rubber fuel line wrap as a bumper against the frame.
Click to expand...
I was happy to assist @jfz80 with the install and get something else off your to-do list. Jason paid the price for his efforts by having fuel mysteriously leak onto him (more than once) and getting some 90W gear oil in his hair. Big thanks also goes to @GLTHFJ60 for bringing the (counterintuitive) tool Jason used to bend the fuel line so nicely.
 
Last edited:
To clarify the above, the RMS (rear main seal) may be leaking, but you have other leaks that may present symptoms similar to a RMS leak. Tackle the oil pan gasket and valve cover/side cover (whatever is putting oil on the back of the block/top of bellhousing) then thoroughly clean so that you can identify the source of any remaining leaks.

Had a blast out there, thanks for having us Brad :D
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
To clarify the above, the RMS (rear main seal) may be leaking, but you have other leaks that may present symptoms similar to a RMS leak. Tackle the oil pan gasket and valve cover/side cover (whatever is putting oil on the back of the block/top of bellhousing) then thoroughly clean so that you can identify the source of any remaining leaks.

Had a blast out there, thanks for having us Brad :D
Click to expand...

Do this before you start working and you will thank yourself. If you do not have one, buy a pressure washer. Great all around the house too. The first thing I do to any rig that rolls into my shop is identify any leaks etc and then pressure wash everything I will be dealing with. Working clean makes a HUGE difference in how you feel about the job. In the engine compartment I spray everything down with simple green first. I spray it down with the motor running and avoid things like coil, dist, electrical connections etc.
 
NCFJ said:
Do this before you start working and you will thank yourself. If you do not have one, buy a pressure washer. Great all around the house too. The first thing I do to any rig that rolls into my shop is identify any leaks etc and then pressure wash everything I will be dealing with. Working clean makes a HUGE difference in how you feel about the job. In the engine compartment I spray everything down with simple green first. I spray it down with the motor running and avoid things like coil, dist, electrical connections etc.
Click to expand...

I pressure washed the engine bay (with engine running) and undercarriage with Simple Green and engine degreaser before the HAMOM. I did not hit the engine bay hard as I have electrical concerns. Read on, feedback welcomed.


Since the HAMOM I ordered the pinion flange and valve cover gasket from SOR and some bolts/hardware for the driveshafts and upcoming projects. I replaced the front diff fluid. I drained the trans from the fill plug, it drained about half a qt. Filled the TC, took about half a qt.
Two days later I find this leak from the parking brake drum.
tc case leak.webp

There are significant leaks from the input side of trans and rear out put side of TC. Not to mention the oil pan gasket.

So what would you do? I'm this far into it, still on jack stands and no interior. I'm leaning towards pulling it now with this new leak and just being done with it. I already have the seals. These types of leaks will drive me crazy if I just maintain them.

In the meantime, I went to install a new battery tray and the battery pedestal was rusty. So I put it and several other parts in the blast cabinet.
IMG_0328.webp

I'll paint these tomorrow.

:beer:
 
The only way to fix the trans input leak is to drop the transmission. If that leak is going to bug you, then drop it now and replace it, along with the rear main and inspect the clutch for wear.

This is now one of those "while you're in there" type projects.
 
Time for an update.
I'll call this one Slowly but Slowly.
Lets jump right in...

TC has been in the parts washer and bead blasted with crushed walnut shells
TC sandblasted.webp


I painted the TC with Duplicolor Aluminum engine enamel. This stuff sprays like liquid aluminum. Very light and smooth, dries quickly. If you are going to spray bomb I recommend Duplicolor. Their nozzle is better than others I have used.
TC painted.webp


The trans still looks like this...
Trans still looks like this.webp


I'm going to pan for gold when I clean the parts washer out this time. I think this metal is from the mud/oil mixture that was baked on to every part I have taken off. I have not cleaned a lot of brass parts yet and the ones I did clean were not that worn.
GOLD.webp


Here is a pic of my completed parts pile. Everything has been either cleaned, bead blasted, painted, or polished (except for the crusty exhaust brackets). The flywheel and parking brake drum have been resurfaced. I have a new clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing.
Completed parts.webp


I still have a long way to go and a few more parts to buy but I can see some light at the end of the tunnel. I'm sure some of you are asking why go to the trouble, especially rebuilding the H42. For me its simple, this is why i bought it. To take something old and make it new again. This 40 will probably never see a URE trail, maybe a forest service road or some beach action but its a Land CRUISER. So I will cruise it, once I put it back together that is. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom