Axle seal - Question (1 Viewer)
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To check whether it rides on the CV axle surface, draw a few sharpie lines on the CV axle and slide it in to the seal. Spin the CV axle few rounds and remove and inspect where the oil seal is riding. If it is on the surface, you are good, if it is too far to the edge, then the lip might not seal properly.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks - I just checked with my local Toyota parts shop, and they have one in stock, so I'm going to remove and replace it properly for the $20 cost rather than take the chance and have to pull the CV again. I did find that an old small stain can fit perfectly over the seal and was useful to set it in, but I will use the stick method on the second install. I used the stick method on the passenger side and was able to set it correctly.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yep. Cheapest seal drivers on the planet. I'd be careful about resuing them too many times, but they work.
When driving seals in, I found once the seal is placed symmtrically all around, just a good tap by a heavy hammer, is all it need. Lighter hammers need constant striking to get it in and can damage the seal (A/M seals will twist/deform).
When I did mine I remember I pushed it all the way in until it stopped on the tapered part (or whatever you call it):
Hammered it in using this tool:
Hammered it in using this tool:
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Yes, but he did get the size in the photo!
- Thread starter
- #11
Put the new seal in correctly this time! New lower BJ's and CV's are back in. I found a belt that came in handy! Now, as I'm waiting for parts, I might as well do the wheel bearings.
The DS diff tube axle seal, can be easily pried back out to set depth and level (square). It has a metal back plate, that can be gently pushed on, using the inner axle female axle socket to lever off.
Even more important than depth in or out ~1mm. Is that in be squared. If cocked at and angle (not squared) it will leak.
Trick for setting the seal depth and square. Is using the inner lip, as a stop.
I using Joey's (Witsend) IFS seal tool, which works great. But before I used it, I used a 3/4" x 1" oak stick. Which works great, just slower.
Below picture, is of PS side. Which has wider lip. The lip on DS side not near as wide. But still OAK stick catches it. A 3/4" steel rod should also work. Which Wit'send also sells a 3/4" rod, as aid to the IFS seal tool. But, I've found IFS seal tool alone, is all I need. Provided the lip area, is scraped clean. Cleaning lip is key!
Even more important than depth in or out ~1mm. Is that in be squared. If cocked at and angle (not squared) it will leak.
Trick for setting the seal depth and square. Is using the inner lip, as a stop.
I using Joey's (Witsend) IFS seal tool, which works great. But before I used it, I used a 3/4" x 1" oak stick. Which works great, just slower.
Below picture, is of PS side. Which has wider lip. The lip on DS side not near as wide. But still OAK stick catches it. A 3/4" steel rod should also work. Which Wit'send also sells a 3/4" rod, as aid to the IFS seal tool. But, I've found IFS seal tool alone, is all I need. Provided the lip area, is scraped clean. Cleaning lip is key!
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