As I start to work and clean up my 1976 FJ40, I'm going to want to do some interior engine compartment painting of structural parts as I go along. What are folks using for primer and black paint to touch up brackets, mounts, etc as they go along?
Automotive Primer Options & Frame Black Paint Options
- Thread starter FJ40newmechanic
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Eastwood has some matte black frame paint
I've always used John Deere Blitz Black for my satin black restoration applications. It's very affordable, doesn't want to fade, laughs at weather and lays down like it came out of a Sata paint gun. It's available in a rattle can, quarts and gallons.
I'm getting ready to start my first FJ40 restoration project and will absolutely use it on parts I need in a black satin finish. I'll sandblast the part to bare metal, spray it with black PPG epoxy primer and after it cures, finish it with John Deere Blitz Black.
If you want to try it on a test basis, you can get a rattle can for less than $10.00. As long as your surface is clean and smooth, within the proper temperature range, even the rattle can will lay paint down perfectly flat with no orange peel. Just my opinion but it is the perfect satin finish. I'll bet if you try it one time, you probably won't ever change to another satin black paint product.
I darn sure wouldn't lie to any forum members because I'm scared. All kidding aside, I believe you'll be extremely satisfied.
John
I'm getting ready to start my first FJ40 restoration project and will absolutely use it on parts I need in a black satin finish. I'll sandblast the part to bare metal, spray it with black PPG epoxy primer and after it cures, finish it with John Deere Blitz Black.
If you want to try it on a test basis, you can get a rattle can for less than $10.00. As long as your surface is clean and smooth, within the proper temperature range, even the rattle can will lay paint down perfectly flat with no orange peel. Just my opinion but it is the perfect satin finish. I'll bet if you try it one time, you probably won't ever change to another satin black paint product.
I darn sure wouldn't lie to any forum members because I'm scared. All kidding aside, I believe you'll be extremely satisfied.
John
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I second Eastwood. They have an entire array of really good products. Their chassis black paints are either satin or glossy, and are offered in three different grades. The top one having ceramic mixed in. I, myself, used their Extreme Chassis Black - Satin, on my own chassis & hardware - and it looks super-fantastic. It's indeed durable.
~Skydog
~Skydog
spi epoxy primer black
bwalker16527
1974 FJ40 SBC V8 350 TH400
Masterseries primer works great. Professional enamel paint.
Not for restoration purposes, but rather for DD applications - I'll use a spray bomb rust converter if there is minor rust. If no rust I use Acid #8 self etching primer by U-pol. If I can't get that I'll use the green self-etching primer O'Riley's sells (SEM). I've been using Rust-oleum High Performance spray bombs recently for top coating.
C6H12O6
SILVER Star
It's not super high-quality paint, I'm sure, but I have been using the Dupli-Color Perfect Match paint and Engine Enamel high-temp primer to refinish the heater boxes. The Toyota Antique Sage Pearl is a damn good match. Since I already had lots of the engine primer, I used their Engine Enamel Semi-Gloss black for a bunch of engine compartment brackets, side cover, valve cover, air cleaner, etc. Pretty happy with it, but I'm not going for a showroom restoration. Seems pretty durable once it cures for a while, but it was a little soft for a couple weeks. Seems better now and has held up to being bolted and unbolted a few times on various parts.
Avoid it. Their chassis black paint is awful. It has very poor chemical and UV resistance. It also takes forever to dry for some reason.
Use a good quality acrylic urethane over a quality epoxy primer over a properly blasted or sanded surface.
Or if it’s not a restoration, just rattlecan over the rust like others have suggested. You’ll need to do it over again in a year. Using a rust converter will buy you some more time, but is not a long term solution. This all depends on exposure, of course. Any coating will last longer if the surface never sees sun or rain.
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4Cruisers
SILVER Star
My '86 FJ60 build is not a restoration, but I used VHT Satin Black Roll Bar & Chassis paint to paint the axle housings/differentials, sway bars, tie rod/relay rod, etc. Hasn't been on the road yet so don't know how it'll hold up.
I do not know why you had an Eastwood issue ? I just used their Chassis Black and it is superb. Love it. Maybe because I am in Arizona where things actually dry ?
GA Architect
SILVER Star
Used this on my frame:
Masterchem Industries 43140 Hammered Paint, Black
Masterchem Industries 43140 Hammered Paint, Black
The humidity of your climate has nothing to do with the two characteristics I mentioned above:
Poor UV resistance
Poor solvent resistance
Leave some brake fluid on the chassis black paint for a little while and then do the same test with an acrylic urethane and you’ll see a huge difference. You can leave brake fluid on an AU for days or even months without an issue. You’ll see similar trends with other automotive solvents when comparing the two.
Also compare the UV resistance of CB paint compared an an AU and the results are equally as dramatic. The CB paint fades rapidly and even chalks a little. And yes this matters on a truck like this because of all the exposed frame portions.
Both of these are very poor characteristics of an automotive paint.
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I painted my vehicle with AU and when my master leaked into the cab, my floor paint wrinkled from fluid. I suppose some paint formulas are better than others, but brake fluid is harsh. My paint store did say some PPG products will stand up, but you need a hazmat suit to apply it.
We will see if Eastwood holds up to UV, because there is a lot of it out here.
jim land
SILVER Star
Ppg delfleet or dupont Imron industrial 2 parts urethane are super resistant to chemical and uv , use with a good 2k epoxy primer after sandblasting for best resuts
You get what you pay for. I can’t thibk of any PPG or DuPont AU’s that would react that way.
Sage advice. Both are excellent single stage polyurethanes for the budget-minded resto. I’m not a big fan of how they lay down, but that doesn’t matter much on chassis parts. These are commercial/industrial grade paints that hold a wet-edge longer and are intended for large structures like commercial fleet vehicles. Like most polyurethanes, They have excellent UV, solvent, abrasion and chipping resistance, just don’t get carried away with the film thickness or the chipping resistance may decrease.
DOT 3 brake fluid will damage all finishes if left on long enough. It also may depend on length of curing. I do believe in the 30 day test. If your fluid is left on the paint for more than this , chemical reaction is beginning.
You do get what you pay for , but, DOT 3 fluid will eventually hurt all finishes. Now, DOT 5 , silicone , different story.
I agree that brake fluid may eventually “hurt” all finishes, but you can leave dot 3 brake fluid on a low-grade single stage AU like PPG Omni MTK for several months without experiencing peeling. I had a leaky wheel cylinder that left no ill effects in this scenario while the vehicle sat in storage for months and isn’t unusual for his type of coating. That was two years ago and the paint still looks as good as it did when I laid it down. This isn’t an exception. This is the expected performance of this paint and that’s why it was chosen (I didn’t expect the bad wheel cylinder, but I did choose paintfbat could tolerate it).
Eastwood’s chassis black paint would cause peeling within minutes.
The price of a quart of PPG Omni MTK (or better) is comparable to that of the eastwood product and will resist fading and chemicals better. Why not apply thesuperior coating for a similar price (maybe a few bucks more)?
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