RET2
SILVER Star
My guess is heat and a little more chisel but as long as it came out you won. Would still consider changing to the Lexus style plug.
Any tips to remove front diff drain plug? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jafo9
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bloc
SILVER Star
This.
Yes, it does feel like a "win" 
.
Interestingly, I stumbled across this adapter which claims to feature a slightly oversized 10mm hex to fit snugly. Toyota Hilux Prado FJ Cruiser Diff Drain Plug Removal Tool - https://www.kaon.com.au/diff-drain-plug-removal-tool-to-suit-toyota-hilux
.Interestingly, I stumbled across this adapter which claims to feature a slightly oversized 10mm hex to fit snugly. Toyota Hilux Prado FJ Cruiser Diff Drain Plug Removal Tool - https://www.kaon.com.au/diff-drain-plug-removal-tool-to-suit-toyota-hilux
RET2
SILVER Star
I couldn't see the actual removal tool they are selling just the replacement plug with hex head. Corresponding Lexus part is less than $15.Yes, it does feel like a "win"
Interestingly, I stumbled across this adapter which claims to feature a slightly oversized 10mm hex to fit snugly. Toyota Hilux Prado FJ Cruiser Diff Drain Plug Removal Tool - https://www.kaon.com.au/diff-drain-plug-removal-tool-to-suit-toyota-hilux
front-diff-tool-and-24mm-drain-plug-to-suit-toyota
tool pictured on the left
tool pictured on the left
after reading this whole thread multiple times and watching all the videos, not sure why I was surprised that my drain plug wouldn’t budge after pb on my ‘09 LX570, and ended up getting stripped after using a 10mm allen and a dead low hammer…. Then tried even more pb blaster and a torx bit, still not budging.
I have the external nut plug Lexus PN # 90341-24016 ordered and arriving at Lexus tomorrow for pickup.
I’m nervous to attempt chiseling, so was gonna go down the “just weld a nut on” route, which I’ve never done before.
I have a Lincoln 220v 180amp mig welder and was hoping wiser people than I could help me with a few questions:
1)What size nut would work best?
2)Also I assume I turn up the juice as if it was like 16gauge metal?
3) Should I shoot the wire on the inside of the nut quasi filling up the threaded hole like in the video earlier in this thread? Or do I put two tacks on the outside of the nut?
4) should I disconnect the battery or anything to protect the electronics?
You’d be my hero if anyone has a pic of a plug that they welded a nut on….
Any help appreciated for this nervous diy hobbiest trying to do his own maintenance.
I have the external nut plug Lexus PN # 90341-24016 ordered and arriving at Lexus tomorrow for pickup.
I’m nervous to attempt chiseling, so was gonna go down the “just weld a nut on” route, which I’ve never done before.
I have a Lincoln 220v 180amp mig welder and was hoping wiser people than I could help me with a few questions:
1)What size nut would work best?
2)Also I assume I turn up the juice as if it was like 16gauge metal?
3) Should I shoot the wire on the inside of the nut quasi filling up the threaded hole like in the video earlier in this thread? Or do I put two tacks on the outside of the nut?
4) should I disconnect the battery or anything to protect the electronics?
You’d be my hero if anyone has a pic of a plug that they welded a nut on….
Any help appreciated for this nervous diy hobbiest trying to do his own maintenance.
I had good luck filling a random large metric nut with some weld metal. It came right off after and I put the Lexus part on. Then I had the gears done by a shop. That also seized (for the 500 mile gear oil refresh). So I welded on another nut and am rolling wiht the welded on part now. I have confidence in it, though it is a bit ugly.
I have nearly zero welding experience, so if I can do it, you certainly can. For the first try I didn't even use a welder, just a couple 12v auto batteries. It wouldn't quite drive the arc though, so I bought a very cheap toaster welder.
I think it was 14 or 15mm outside size.
@grinchy thanks for the quick response and the confidence booster! That’s absolutely wild that the new plug froze after only 500 miles.
Pls tell me that the center diff plugs don’t suffer a similar fate…. My “southern” rig is so clean and rust free, so just ignorantly skimmed over the horror stories thinking I’d be in the clear. My rear diff fluid swap was smooth.
The main issue with center diff is people overtightening the many little bolts on the guard and harmonic balancer. The casting is soft and the torque specs are low. Make sure you're tightening to recommended torque only.
That one doesn't have a history of freezing up.
RET2
SILVER Star
IMHO no and be sure to loosen the fill plug first.
Good call on loosening the fill plug first. What would be the downside to the impact?
RET2
SILVER Star
Potentially damaging the housing and quickly stripping out the hex head. Don't know if there is a magic fix but going slow and methodic has yielded better results than a Demo Derby approach. Some form of heat seems to be involved in many successful extractions.
Understood. Thank you!
bloc
SILVER Star
Do you have a new drain plug to replace the old? Bought the Lexus IS part maybe?
If you have a new one I’ve had good luck hammering the head around the edge of the old plug to barely compress the copper gasket.
In my experience the longest braker bar you can find. I use a 40”.
Yes, I do have the Lexus IS bolt head part on order. Hammering around the head is another good tip, thank you.
I think heat is the trick maker, comes for free with welding. I did spend some time blasting the area with a hot air tool on the first freeze and got it 'hot', but that probably wasn't enough deep heat for a large metal object like the diff.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Order of option, I go at this plug.
- Using 10mm hex head socket of perfect fit with good shape edges, is very helpful. I've a few 3/8" drives of different manufactures. My snap-on seems best. It sharps edges grab well, and protrude deep into socket. Using a larger drive socket would allow for large breaker bar, without adapter/reducer. Which the added length of adapters (3/4 to 1/2, 1/2 to 3/8"), is difficult to keep squarly in plug. I'm keeping my eye out for: a JIS 3/4" drive 10MM hex head socket. Using a 3/4" heavy thick breaker bar that will not flex, is supper helpful. If tool(s) flexes, bolt/nut/plug wins. My 3/4" breaker is not that long, but is very stout.
- Shocking the plug with a well placed blow, is helpful. This why a chisel works.
- Heat to expand the dissimilar metals at different rates, is very helpful. This is why welding on a nut works so well. I do not have a welder, so never tried this option. Nor have I heated with my NAP gas (open flame). As I've always gotten off with option 1 or 2. If I did need to add heat. I now have induction heater coil for bolts, I'd use to heat plug. It's a very fast tool to grab and heat bolt, keeping heat very localized. It takes only a few second, once trigger pulled, to get target very hot.
bloc
SILVER Star
This is a really good idea.. would love to see if the real-world impact is as good as the theory.
Also yes to all the above, especially reducing adapters/extensions to keep the plane you pull on the breaker bar as close to the face of the plug as possible. This reduces the bending force on the bit and tendency to walk out.
