Any tips to remove front diff drain plug? (11 Viewers)

[2001LC]

This is a really good idea.. would love to see if the real-world impact is as good as the theory.

Also yes to all the above, especially reducing adapters/extensions to keep the plane you pull on the breaker bar as close to the face of the plug as possible. This reduces the bending force on the bit and tendency to walk out.

I've not used induction coil heater on this drain plug, yet!

But did just have opportunity to try on a 100 series busted stabilizer bracket bolt. I first tried without use of heat, no movement. Then after just 5 seconds of heat, bolt turned easily.

 

[RET2]

Please kind Sir what is the name of this miracle tool and who makes it?

 

[grinchy]

Amazon product ASIN B0851C6Q22
?

 

[RET2]

Amazon product ASIN B0851C6Q22
?

Now that's a bit pricey, till you need one then it's priceless.

 

[KLF]

I haven't used one, but have heard they are miracles when working on rusty stuff. Pricey now, but you know eventually Harbor Freight will have one for $20.

 

[RET2]

I haven't used one, but have heard they are miracles when working on rusty stuff. Pricey now, but you know eventually Harbor Freight will have one for $20.

Wellll, put me on the list for a $20 model. Even if it only works once it's priceless.

 

[2001LC]

The sub $200 induction coils are the cheap knock off.

Here's mid price at $599.

MINI-DUCTOR® VENOM® MINIDUCV | Matco Tools

www.matcotools.com

 

[99toylc]

I have owned the Mini Ductor Venom for the last 5 years and it is an amazing induction tool that saved my bacon many times while working on my own vehicles (including 3 rusty plow trucks) as well as my friends vehicles. A must have for rust belt area repairs, but I think it would be useful in any enthusiast's garage period.

I have this one and it's currently on sale on Flea-bay if you go to check out at $496.09

Mini Ductor Venom Handheld Induction Heater ICT-MDV-777 Brand New! | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mini Ductor Venom Handheld Induction Heater ICT-MDV-777 Brand New! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[2001LC]

I do like the look of the "pistol" handle configuration of the Venom. Seem it would be easier to get into tight spots..

So what would you say is benefit to buying the Venom or other higher price coils vs low cost units?

My low price units, does get target hotter than recommended if I want it to. As they recommended only a few second of heating time, and to not get target red hot. But I've held on longer, and they do get target glowing red hot very fast.

 

[pvchaitanya]

I used a long breaker bar and it did the trick.
It can be a bit difficult to get angle with the long breaker bar due to the low space and clearance, but once you figure our the angle to get it fit. It will loosen easily.
Another trick is use compressed air can which we get to clean computers and keyboards. Invert it so it squirts out frozen liquid. With this I freeze the bolt and then put pbblaster and freeze it couple of time so the cold freezed and creeps down a bit.

Then pbblast again, try again , pbblast again. with all that wiggling, it should loosen up.

Like someone mentioned, give it multiple tries slowly over a period of hours rather than going all in quickly.

 

[RET2]

Another potentially helpful trick is to find a 10mm hex that has a flat bottom. Many have a relief ground to bottom shoulder to aid in insertion. Some have just ground it flat.

 

[bloc]

It will loosen easily.

Not so fast. Some very competent people on here have had them stick in a major way. Between the diameter of the gasket and threads, the tendency for past mechanics to crank on these things due to the size of those threads, and the puny 10mm Allen interface a bunch have been very, very stuck. In those it wasn’t a matter of breaker bar orientation.

Someone even had the new IS plug get stuck on them and strip out the head, though their mechanic did the previous fluid change so they can’t say for sure it wasn’t over tightened.

 

[RET2]

Not so fast. Some very competent people on here have had them stick in a major way. Between the diameter of the gasket and threads, the tendency for past mechanics to crank on these things due to the size of those threads, and the puny 10mm Allen interface a bunch have been very, very stuck. In those it wasn’t a matter of breaker bar orientation.

Someone even had the new IS plug get stuck on them and strip out the head, though their mechanic did the previous fluid change so they can’t say for sure it wasn’t over tightened.

Perhaps making sure whoever is actually doing the work is well aware of the factory torque spec?

 

[grinchy]

That was me that had the Lexus IS part strip, and the differential service (it was a ratio change) was done by a very reputable shop. I'm no professional mechanic, but I tried to be careful and treat that nut head with respect. It twisted very easily . . .

Maybe I should start a cottage business of drain plugs with welded on 15mm nuts. They work good and are very price competitive to create.

 

[KLF]

Maybe I should start a cottage business of drain plugs with welded on 15mm nuts. They work good and are very price competitive to create.

The problem with that is welding on the plug generally ruins the magnet.

 

[bloc]

That was me that had the Lexus IS part strip, and the differential service (it was a ratio change) was done by a very reputable shop. I'm no professional mechanic, but I tried to be careful and treat that nut head with respect. It twisted very easily . . .

Maybe I should start a cottage business of drain plugs with welded on 15mm nuts. They work good and are very price competitive to create.

I doubt the base material is very high strength steel. One concern for me with using a welded plug would be that pretty thin sealing flange warping. And yes the magnet.

I approached Joey of wit’s end about a custom drain plug for us but he had too much stuff going on. It would be pretty easy to develop, and could use low strength steel but something like a 22mm hex on it like all the rest of our drivetrain drains, and shouldn’t twist off easily in that case.

Edit: or is it 24? I must be getting old. Don’t usually forget stuff like that.

 

[pvchaitanya]

I doubt the base material is very high strength steel. One concern for me with using a welded plug would be that pretty thin sealing flange warping. And yes the magnet.

I approached Joey of wit’s end about a custom drain plug for us but he had too much stuff going on. It would be pretty easy to develop, and could use low strength steel but something like a 22mm hex on it like all the rest of our drivetrain drains, and shouldn’t twist off easily in that case.

Edit: or is it 24? I must be getting old. Don’t usually forget stuff like that.

its 24mm.
I had to buy a low profile 24mm socket to get a good hold on the plug.
Deep socket kept sliding off and all the force is rounding off (or eventually round off).
Of all the plugs, front was the toughest because of the amount of space and angle under there. (for me).

 

[pvchaitanya]

one more observation. My front differential fluid seems to be more dirtier than rear or the transfer case. (Assuming all are changed at same time previously by previous owner).
Since front differential liquid is smaller capacity, will it wear quicker than others, or the amount of work front differential needs to engage is lesser hence smaller quality fluid makes sense?
I almost felt like I may need to change front differential fluid half way through as much as the rear and transfer case fluid would last.

 

[bloc]

one more observation. My front differential fluid seems to be more dirtier than rear or the transfer case. (Assuming all are changed at same time previously by previous owner).
Since front differential liquid is smaller capacity, will it wear quicker than others, or the amount of work front differential needs to engage is lesser hence smaller quality fluid makes sense?
I almost felt like I may need to change front differential fluid half way through as much as the rear and transfer case fluid would last.

More likely it just got skipped. Mine usually comes out the same color as the rear axle.

For what it’s worth when I got my cruiser at 105k it seemed as though the (edit) front driveshaft had never been lubed. Barely any dirty grease came out before the clean stuff, almost nothing under the truck from previous lubes, unlike the rear shaft, which clearly had been maintained. This with documents of religious dealer maintenance every 5k until I got it.

If it were a design issue we’d be seeing front diffs failing. We aren’t.

 

[coleAK]

An update. After having the stripped front diff plug issue mentioned above I’ve done the front diff fluid 2 more times at 75k and now 90k. I’ve had no other issues. I make sure the 10mm bit is seated all the way in and use a 36” breaker bar then torque back to 29 ft-lbs when reinstalling.

In my original case the dealer stripped it out when they re-installed it at 45k. But I think a lot of these issues are due to dealers over torquing the plug during re-install.