Like the JB weld 
Mangled rear diff drain plug. Best way to fix?
- Thread starter kcjaz
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
This is the best way to fix this. Radical, but you'll never have to worry about bunging up the drain plug again.
Remove the axle housing from the truck. Plasma out the drain plug entirely.
Mount an empty diff housing to the axle. Plasma out the rest of the bottom of the axle.
Weld a plate over the opening. Test for leaks with brake clean. Paint and re-install.
Use the bottom diff studs to drain the axle in the future.
(did both axles in my mini in 2003)
Remove the axle housing from the truck. Plasma out the drain plug entirely.
Mount an empty diff housing to the axle. Plasma out the rest of the bottom of the axle.
Weld a plate over the opening. Test for leaks with brake clean. Paint and re-install.
Use the bottom diff studs to drain the axle in the future.
(did both axles in my mini in 2003)
@KLF assume you went this route after severely damaging the factory drain plug and or using your 200 on serious Offroad tracks all the time?
I just saw the thread started with KLF having a leak from the diff plug during a MOAB trip. I see can see his motivation now.
I personally want to keep replacing the TC and Diffs oils relative easy every 30 to 50k miles so once I mod my 200 for more serious off-roading (which would include larger diameter tires…) I think I get the metal ring and use probably a combination of set screws and JB weld to mount the same.
I personally want to keep replacing the TC and Diffs oils relative easy every 30 to 50k miles so once I mod my 200 for more serious off-roading (which would include larger diameter tires…) I think I get the metal ring and use probably a combination of set screws and JB weld to mount the same.
This was on my '87 Xtra cab pickup that I was gradually building up as a crawler in the early 2000's. I eventually did a frame-off on it, this truck lives somewhere in southern AZ now.
Not yet.Did you weld it on yet?
Any learnings?
Any pictures?
Thanks in advance
If you're going to get a welder to help you repair/replace the ground down ring you might as well have him use a hard face rod and give you something that will last longer than another mild steel ring.
- Thread starter
- #29
Hey Paul, has it been yet yet? I think I am going to put mine on before Moab. Just need to find a welder. Rather than grinding the existing, protection ring down, I beveled the ring.
I have not installed yet. Need to find a welder. What did you use to bevel the ring?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #31
- Thread starter
- #32
Got the ring welded on at the shop that replaced my pinion bearings. Good time to do it as they had the 3rd ember out to do the bearings.
Protects the drain plug but is likely going to be a rock catcher. It does not improve clearance. I’m considering grinding the front edge to a bevel that might make sliding over rocks easier.
Grinding a bevel while leaving say 2/3rd of the material in place for strength seems a good idea. Looking very good otherwise
- Thread starter
- #34
Ground it down a bit (it will likely self bevel with use) the painted it for looks. I probably lost near a half inch of ground clearance and I’m gonna smack the snot out of that thing. I think some sort of metal plate that covers it would be better but figuring out how to attach that is kind of where I’m stuck, I get the plasma cut the whole thing out and forget the drain plug idea for a rock crawler but I don’t think I’m ready to do that 200 yet.
1/8” Steel plate bent and attached to the bottom diff studs. There’s enough thread to slip that over and add a second nut
- Thread starter
- #36
Yes, I thought of that or more likely you’ve told me that in the past, but I’d be a little afraid of transferring forces into those diff studs.
Yep that’s the reason I haven’t tried it.
I got tired of mine getting ground down and even the lower studs getting damage. I didn't want to eliminate the drain plug and try to drain through studs either.
So I added some 1/4" plate. It's not technically reducing ground clearance since it's slightly lower than the ring around the plug. It is a nice skid plate in a way. It even takes the hit for the lower studs. This is on my mini truck but basically the same as your Cruiser.
Just another idea for those who are tired of ripping off the ring and plug.
So I added some 1/4" plate. It's not technically reducing ground clearance since it's slightly lower than the ring around the plug. It is a nice skid plate in a way. It even takes the hit for the lower studs. This is on my mini truck but basically the same as your Cruiser.
Just another idea for those who are tired of ripping off the ring and plug.
Wet rag heat sink. Short welds and time to cool.
Did you use factory torque specs for the drain plug?