Builds Another 1HZ Into a 77 FJ40 (17 Viewers)

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I've got an owners manual - but it's in Japanese. I'll dig it up sometime and see if I can figure out the maintenance schedules
 
generic schedule

not exactly still looking but somewhat useful

in readable size here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/184462-online-manuals.html
genericmaint.jpg
 
I have been working on the power steering detail of having a one 1HZ sit in a forty.

I have a rebuilt FJ60 box from West Texas Off road, along with that I need to get a Borgeson universal joint so I can connect my column into a new intermediate shaft that comes from a FJ60 column. (Didn't want to use a 55 column because it adds an extra 1.5" to the column and I don't want the wheel in my chest.) That then connects to the box. From there I run all FJ60 tie rod ends because I picked up FJ62, which makes life much easier. I will however have to get two custom rods made up from Front Range Off Road. One will be 25 inches and the other will be the same length as a FJ40s tie road.

Couple questions.
1. Are FJ60 tie rod ends 23MM?
2. By getting custom rods jam nuts work as the clamps on the OEM ones?
3. Is the FJ60 cooler enough?
4. Anyone running a column bearing?
5. Steering damper mount to the frame do I use the 40s or a 60s?
 
70 sereis cross link is perfect fit ... 40 series end at tire and 70 series link at box. nothing custom.
 
70 sereis cross link is perfect fit ... 40 series end at tire and 70 series link at box. nothing custom.

Will those work with 60 tie ends? I have FJ62 knuckles going on, otherwise I will order up the 70 series.
 
i "think" the 60 and the 70 and the late 40/42 series share the same ends ... you might want to confirm.
 
Will do thanks.
 
Paul, I have some replies in red below:

I have been working on the power steering detail of having a one 1HZ sit in a forty.

I have a rebuilt FJ60 box from West Texas Off road, along with that I need to get a Borgeson universal joint so I can connect my column into a new intermediate shaft that comes from a FJ60 column. (Didn't want to use a 55 column because it adds an extra 1.5" to the column and I don't want the wheel in my chest.) What are you doing about the rag joint at the bottom of the FJ40 steering column? That then connects to the box. From there I run all FJ60 tie rod ends because I picked up FJ62, which makes life much easier. I will however have to get two custom rods made up from Front Range Off Road. One will be 25 inches and the other will be the same length as a FJ40s tie road.

Couple questions.
1. Are FJ60 tie rod ends 23MM? I believe so, Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters knows for sure. I'm pretty sure crushers is right, we talked about a lot of this in this thread:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/co-wy-hors...conversion-fj40-while-keeping-air-pump-8.html


2. By getting custom rods jam nuts work as the clamps on the OEM ones? I'm not sure what you're asking. Either buy a 70 series drag link tube (part numbers in above thread) or get a custom one made where the stock 60 series clamps will work and the 60 series tie rod ends will thread in to the ends

3. Is the FJ60 cooler enough? I just added an FJ60 cooler to mine:
Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion - Page 8 - Rising Sun Member Forums but haven't driven it yet so I don't know how it works. I suppose it will work fine if it works on FJ60s.


4. Anyone running a column bearing? Are you talking about a new bearing at the base of your steering column to replace the bushing that a stock FJ40 column uses, or a bearing down by the steering box? I'm using an FJ55 column which I think had a bearing in it, I can't remember now

5. Steering damper mount to the frame do I use the 40s or a 60s? This will depend on what tie rod you use at the pitman arm side of your drag link. In the end, you will probably have to take a custom measurement and go buy one at a parts store. But I know of several folks with FJ60 power steering conversions that are not running a steering damper. Mine seems to do fine without one, though I still would like to add one some day to complete my system. I think it will have to be custom length.

EDIT: Here's the post where we talked about steering rod sizes...which says that the FJ60 TRE is 21mm...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/co-wy-hors...j40-while-keeping-air-pump-4.html#post3748441
 
Last edited:
1. Sounds good on the TRE. I will double check with Kurt.
2. I believe the jam nut works as a replacement to the clamp this issue maybe avoided by getting the stock tubes. If the TRE are the same between a 40 and a 60 than I am set.
3. Makes sense. My pump sets right next to the box, so it is a short run and don't want to have to worry about it once it is in.
4.I am talking about the column bearing that replaces the bushing. I saw that Kurt sells one.
5. I have a new OME damper waiting to go on. I was just seeing if I needed to move the bracket that mounts to the frame or not.

Thanks for all the help.


On a different note. Best place to order up a set engine isolators? My engine didn't come with any. I am thinking give Radd Cruisers a call?
 
John is good to deal with ...
if you want new what about CruiserDan in the states?

CDan and Cbeno are awesome to deal with. No doubt about that (and Bad Mojo knows it, he could walk to American Toyota if he wanted). I personally liked the 555 TREs I got from Kurt better than the Toyota ones, because the preservative wax Toyota used on the threads was more in the way for threading it into the rods than anything else. It made adjusting the rods a lot more work than the 555 ends did. I might try some solvent to get rid of the preservative first, if I buy new Toyota ends again...

For the engine isolators I'd give John at Radd a call. But you might be able to get some from CDan if you have the part numbers.

On an unrelated note, the engine cart is easy to make. I have maybe 4 hours in mine (see my 45 thread). Also, I've got some suggestions for "improvements" that could be made to the design. We'll chat one of these days.

Dan
 
CDan and Cbeno are awesome to deal with. No doubt about that (and Bad Mojo knows it, he could walk to American Toyota if he wanted). I personally liked the 555 TREs I got from Kurt better than the Toyota ones, because the preservative wax Toyota used on the threads was more in the way for threading it into the rods than anything else. It made adjusting the rods a lot more work than the 555 ends did. I might try some solvent to get rid of the preservative first, if I buy new Toyota ends again...

For the engine isolators I'd give John at Radd a call. But you might be able to get some from CDan if you have the part numbers.

On an unrelated note, the engine cart is easy to make. I have maybe 4 hours in mine (see my 45 thread). Also, I've got some suggestions for "improvements" that could be made to the design. We'll chat one of these days.

Dan

About to run over and see them.

We shall see about the TRE because I wouldn't mind getting new new tubes with my rods, so I may get OEM TREs just have to see.

Sounds good on the chart. I checked it out. Time for me to put those CAD skills to use.
 
Talked to Onur yesterday and looks like I can get the mounts that will be confirmed on Monday though. Plus the price wasn't bad. Better than shipping in from OZ. I also learned that 1FZ mounts are very similar and I might be able to use those as well.

On the power steering note I don't know if it is possible, but I am thinking about looking at using an 80 series steering shaft perhaps it will be a more direct swap instead of pulling out the shaft from a 60 column. I will have to measure the next time I am around an 80.

I have an idea about my cart when I am get it down to build it. It will require a trip to the junkyard for a part.
 
Fuel Filters

I have been thinking about about what kind of filters should be run with the 1HZ. I have read about some people running between 1-3 filters. I can run a stock one, or a Racor or a combination of the two. I am also putting in an auxiliary tank and don't know if I should run each tank with a filter and then run one more in the engine bay.

I am thinking about bio diesel or vegetable oil at some point and would like to be prepared at the beginning. I know I would need a heater for vegetable oil, but should one be installed for normal diesel?
 
normal diesel heater, no. not needed.
filters, the factory 1HZ filter is good, very good filter. i have seen a couple mine truck 1HZ that ran 2 filters in series but never understood why? if a filter works then that is all you need. the 1HZ is a tough engine, the inline pump doesn't like water.
there would be no problem with running a water seperator down on the frame like the old 60 and 40 series diesels did. the factory 1HZ filter is also a water seperator. run a warnign light from each seperator so you know which is the culprit if something goes sideways.

just my opinion.
 
Easy enough. I also read about primers on some of the pumps. Does the stock one not use one or is it else where or do I bleed another way? Sorry for all the questions also learning as much as I can about the 1HZ.

Thanks.
 
the factory filter housing has the primer on the top of it and it works amazingly well.

Seems like the filter discussion has been put to bed. Thanks for the input.

Here is what I mocked up in CAD real quick of what I want to do for a engine cradle. There would be a control panel at one end where I might stick my stock cluster to test it's gauges along with other gauges that will be run. Underneath there a battery and a small tank. Gas tank will come from a portable generator or something similar. The other end will hold a radiator. The other two parts are mounts and a cross member that can be moved along the rail. Those bolt up. I did this because I don't plan on this 1HZ being the only swap I do and I want them to move. Also big swivel casters on all corners.

EngineCart.jpg


Insulators are on their way from Japan.
 
the factory filter housing has the primer on the top of it and it works amazingly well.

Wayne:

Do you know of a good source to find the filter assemblies used? Or new if not too much coin....

I really like the Toyota filter setup (and it would match my other truck, so common filters are always nice...), but I haven't seen any easy place to find more than the filter element itself. The BJ and HJ trucks all use just the engine mounted filter, yes?

I'd say hijack over, but I'm sure this question will be asked by Mr. Mojo too...

Dan
 

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