rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,041
100% currently staring down the entrance of the rabbit hole.
Builds An Accidental Frame Off.................. (4 Viewers)
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,042
This will either be a massive improvement on noise reduction and insulation in the cab, or it will be the worst idea I've had yet, there's probably no middle ground in that.
Siless 80 mil sound deadening mat cut to fit in most of the cab, I'm still finishing up the rear.
I'm doing all I can to weatherproof every bolt hole and leak prone area I can find, and leaving some extra room around the holes that are in the sheet metal already. All of the unused holes are going to get rubber plugs with some sort of sealer dope to help ensure they're as weatherproof as I can get.
The sound deadening mat is going to get a layer of Siless 157 mil heat insulation over that, then a rubber mat of some sort to cover and protect all of that.
Again, I'm either going to create a complete disaster, or not. Time will tell, and Fluid Film will get sprayed liberally every fall.
I haven't officially stuck it to the body and rolled it on yet, I may need to knock back a couple shots of something strong before I get the courage.
Siless 80 mil sound deadening mat cut to fit in most of the cab, I'm still finishing up the rear.
I'm doing all I can to weatherproof every bolt hole and leak prone area I can find, and leaving some extra room around the holes that are in the sheet metal already. All of the unused holes are going to get rubber plugs with some sort of sealer dope to help ensure they're as weatherproof as I can get.
The sound deadening mat is going to get a layer of Siless 157 mil heat insulation over that, then a rubber mat of some sort to cover and protect all of that.
Again, I'm either going to create a complete disaster, or not. Time will tell, and Fluid Film will get sprayed liberally every fall.
I haven't officially stuck it to the body and rolled it on yet, I may need to knock back a couple shots of something strong before I get the courage.
Or you could pull the top and completely give up the concept of noise reduction. Just saying….
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,044
Ski days would suck!
I guess the question is, what would you do if the PO of your rig did this? Is the juice worth the squeeze? Haha I’ve toyed with doing this too, but I never commit when I think about the potential for rust to grow without any way to see if there’s an issue without scrapping it off.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,046
All this has been thought about.
I'm installing it with (hopefully) enough space around the rust prone areas that I can see what's going on, a little space around all the holes, flanges, and seams. May even spray some Fluid Film on some of the worrisome areas in the fall. Hopefully the large flat areas that are clean and free of rust will be fine, it's just the areas around bolt holes and such that I worry about.
Winter is the only time that moisture is much of a concern, the rest of the year isn't bad, and things dry out pretty quickly.
It's definitely something that I am going to need to monitor for a few years.
Is there a way to do this with a removable membrane? Maybe mimic the vinyl/rubber floor mats and adhere the sound deadening and insulation to that?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,048
I thought of that for a while, but it would be a waste for the sound deadening mat.
Just trying to justify a dumb decision.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,049
My original plan was to apply the insulation to the backside of a mat that can be removed to allow everything to air out and dry.
I spent a lot of time and money to make my 40 quiet. I think its doable below about 50mph. Above 50, there is so much wind noise that it really negates any sound deadening on the floors from the drivetrain/road noise. I think above 50mph, about 80% of the noise is the wind hitting the front hard top cap overhang. The air hits it and has nowhere to go....
Good luck with your project!
Good luck with your project!
We had a guy in town for couple years. He drove a convertible Sebring through the winter. He kept his skis sticking out of the back seat with the top down. Of course the Chrysler likely had better HVAC system than a 40.
***You may return to the sound deadening discussion now***
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Are you putting this inside the doors too? I will be watching this too - wanting to do the same in the near future
Why not a mat with it on the bottom? That would suck to peel off if it doesnt end up doing much. A mat is removable at least.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,054
Possibly, I have one sheet left at the moment, hoping to save it for the doors.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,055
With it stuck to the bottom of a mat it wouldn't dampen the sound as designed, at that point it wouldn't be anything more than an insulator of sorts, and probably not a very efficient one.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,056
Someone has to do it to see if it's worth the effort or not, might as well be me!
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,057
I'm not covering any seams, joints, or holes.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
- Thread starter
- #3,058
Also, none of that is attached yet.
brettk
SILVER Star
I can vouch for Siless in the 80 and the pickup, I’d definitely put down vinyl or carpet overtop though, I don’t think it would hold up to normal floorboard traffic well on its own.
There was a couple of spots in the 80 where I remember having fitment issues bolting the seat brackets to the floors. I had to go back and cut out the foam/butyl for the bolt holes to line up.
There was a couple of spots in the 80 where I remember having fitment issues bolting the seat brackets to the floors. I had to go back and cut out the foam/butyl for the bolt holes to line up.
