Builds An Accidental Frame Off.................. (38 Viewers)

[Wasatch Jay]

Ryan,

I used a different 80 mil sound deadening mat, made by a company called Noico. (IIRC, it was the least expensive material of that thickness available on Amazon at the time.) My friend and I installed in on a snowcat project, and we pretty much lined the inside of the cab with it. Firewall, roof, doors, side walls, floor, kick panels... everything. I was stunned at what a difference it made.

It was money well spent, and I hope your project works out as well. Good luck!

 

[fjdiesel]

I did a ton of sound deadening to my 40 as well.

Just got back from SAS. 2700 mi trip from MN. The most noise was from the wind on the front of the vehicle.

A couple things I did that made the biggest difference was carpet. I had a local shop make custom carpet, and make it easily removable, for the reasons you talk about.
And I put this product under the carpet VB-4 is designed to block road noise! - https://cascadeaudio.com/automotive_audio_enhancement/road_noise_reducer_vb45.html
And I put Dynamat on the side walls of the tub, above the wheel wells. That was probably the second biggest quieting factor, I hated to lose the painted look in the back, but it was crazy how much noise, heat, and cold it took care of. I did this product in the 1/4" DynaPad - https://www.dynamatstore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=129

I have an insulated soft top that I put a sheet of egg crate foam on the inside. That did a huge number on making the soft top way quieter.

Just a few more options for you to add under the carpet if you want more noise suppression. HTH.

 

[ijonesinsp]

The above argument about if the previous owner had done the same thing is valid, however, it seems to me this thing is Ryan’s daily driver and I can’t see him ever getting rid of it.

 

[OlYellr]

Someone has to do it to see if it's worth the effort or not, might as well be me!

I buy first round taking a hit for the team.

 

[1911]

Someone has to do it to see if it's worth the effort or not, might as well be me!

I look forward to your results and review; thinking about doing this to mine in the future.

 

[1MAC]

Whatever works!


View attachment 3405663View attachment 3405664

I'm really curious about the speaker you have there. Did you make that yourself?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I'm really curious about the speaker you have there. Did you make that yourself?

That's an old speaker box I picked up at Wal-Mart a long time ago for something cheap, say $25 or so. It isn't the greatest thing, but it's cheap, it has worked fine, and it's not like anyone would want to steal it. I don't worry if it gets rained on, dusty, or bounced around, fits nicely between the side of the roll bar too.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I look forward to your results and review; thinking about doing this to mine in the future.

Just walking around knocking on panels it's a major difference, every panel I have it installed on sounds heavier and more dense, no "hollow echo" that is usually associated with 40's.


I'm still rehabbing some other things "while I'm in there" so it might be a few weeks before I get some real world feedback.

 

[Jdc1]

Just walking around knocking on panels it's a major difference, every panel I have it installed on sounds heavier and more dense, no "hollow echo" that is usually associated with 40's.


I'm still rehabbing some other things "while I'm in there" so it might be a few weeks before I get some real world feedback.

I have sound deadener in both doors, the rear hatch and the tranny tunnel- huge difference, thunk vs metallic ping. Still get a ton of road and wind noise, plus the annoying rattle from one of the rear heater fins at the top of each gear.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I have sound deadener in both doors, the rear hatch and the tranny tunnel- huge difference, thunk vs metallic ping. Still get a ton of road and wind noise, plus the annoying rattle from one of the rear heater fins at the top of each gear.

Definitely an improvement.


Rattles are one of pet peeves, I do all I can to fix things that rattle.

To the point that I spent 30 minutes trying to find an annoying clicking sound that turned out to be one of the latches on my lunch box being blown back and forth by the wind.

The other big one (with the top off) is the passenger side seat belt, driving south the west wind blows the seat belt just right and causes it to rapidly shake back and forth, creating another annoying sound!

 

[Catching Neutral]

Have you tried bucking in an imaginary passenger to see if that would cure the seatbelt noise?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Have you tried bucking in an imaginary passenger to see if that would cure the seatbelt noise?

I did buckle it up one day, it was better than being unbuckled for sure, but the loose part of the belt from the upped shoulder mount down to the retractor flops back and forth.


I clipped a heavy duty black paper clip to it one day. That seemed to work the best, then my kid got in.

That one isn't a huge deal, I only run with the top off for a few weeks, every 3-4 years or so.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Currently pinning out the rear harness to decipher what goes where on the rear so I can order tje appropriate wires, splices, and connectors.

Should get some solid tech out of this.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Rough draft.

I need to detail some splices in the G and GY wires.

 

[SergP]

Do you have one piece of the rear harness? My 1976 has an connector between the fuel sender and tail lights
I guess you melted the tail lights harness only.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Do you have one piece of the rear harness? My 1976 has an connector between the fuel sender and tail lights
I guess you melted the tail lights harness only.

Yup, one piece harness from the front firewall connector all the way back to the rear lights. I could realistically just crimp an new section on at the rear and run with it for another half-a-hundred years, but I might as well do it right while I'm getting the stuff to do it.


The section between the taillights was the only section that was melted through.

 

[dmaddox]

An additional option to ground proof the ever present "non blinking" turn signal would be to either go with the later oval style (6 pin) or just add a ground to the internal body of unit....for the tail lights and add in a ground from the frame. This is what I just did, I added a ground like this (in addition to the license plate light):

 

[pb4ugo]

On my 75 there are 2 connectors at the firewall. I think the turn and running lights in 1 plug and brakes and something else in the other. At the rear of the 40 near the rt rear tail light there is another connecter for all the wiring in the rear. Brake, turn, backup and marker lights for both sides. When I did my rear I grounded my tail light housings to the frame using 1 of the rock protector bolts.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

City Racer fuel line grommet arrived today.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Question.


Does the hard line go through the grommet, or the flex fuel line?

All logical thoughts suggest the hard line pokes through the floor of the cab, then changes to flex line.

But strange things happen.

Also, routing the hard line through the floor could lead to unnecessary vibration possibly.

I need a nap.