Amateur Overlander (1 Viewer)

[texdoc77]

I totally agree that 35" tires look cool but for me it would be either 33" and a low lift or 37" and a bigger lift. It's kind of the decision between a full on super capable 4x4 vs more of the typical lets explore 95% of everything but skip the super hard stuff kind of vehicle.

This is ridiculously logical. And yet... I think I still may split the difference and go with a 2.5" with 35's. Will I need new brake lines and longer drive shaft? I have seen the Caster plate mod, will I need that as well. Still much research left to do.

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

2.5” lift and 35’s needs essentially nothing else done. That set up does well with stock differentials, but even better with 4.56 or more commonly 4.88’s…

 

[greentruck]

Icing on the cake = without a rack it'll still fit into the garage.

Sometimes it'll fit in the garage WITH a rack...

 

[fjbj40]

I need to renovate my garage, the 6’6” door height is cramping my style

 

[texdoc77]

2.5” lift and 35’s needs essentially nothing else done. That set up does well with stock differentials, but even better with 4.56 or more commonly 4.88’s…

As I built up my Samurai changing the gears was essential, not just for bigger tires, but to help that little engine out. I need to look and see what stock axle and tcase gearing is for the Cruiser. On the samurai with the way the tcase was set up just switching tcase gears was enough. My suspicion is that on the Cruiser I would want to regear at the axles if anything. Will the 4.88 affect hwy driving much?

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

As I built up my Samurai changing the gears was essential, not just for bigger tires, but to help that little engine out. I need to look and see what stock axle and tcase gearing is for the Cruiser. On the samurai with the way the tcase was set up just switching tcase gears was enough. My suspicion is that on the Cruiser I would want to regear at the axles if anything. Will the 4.88 affect hwy driving much?

My 4.88 regear on 35’s really helped pep it up. Felt considerably better on and off road (especially going downhill in the San Juans!). Going 75mph on asphalt, the regear probably added 200-300rpm. About 2800 rpm at 74-75 mph. And can run that way all day.

T-case regear can accomplish similar and I considered that. It wasn’t going to be much cost savings. I decided to wait to regear Tcase if ever decide to convert to part time 4wd and/or 5 speed.

 

[texdoc77]

My 4.88 regear on 35’s really helped pep it up. Felt considerably better on and off road (especially going downhill in the San Juans!). Going 75mph on asphalt, the regear probably added 200-300rpm. About 2800 rpm at 74-75 mph. And can run that way all day.

this sounds like a good plan, what suspension do you run?

 

[SoTexCruiserDoc]

Done by PO. Old Man Emu with heavy springs front and rear. I’m very happy with it and wouldn’t change. When things wear out I might consider a Dobison system as a more “modern” alternative.

Nitro 4.88 regear was done by Cruiser Outfitters (@cruiseroutfit) in SLC btw

 

[texdoc77]

Looks like a moderate lift with 35" tires along with regearing front and rear diff to 4.88 and ARB locker in the rear is my current plan. Will probably have the work done by my local guy, but will get the parts from @cruiseroutfit if possible.

Well enough of dreaming of those things for a while. Will be doing PM this weekend, oil, ATF, diffs etc, then will take stock of hoses and the like. Part 1 of baselining the vehicle. Will report back on how it goes!

 

[gofast]

179k is just getting broke in for a 1FZ. And that engine is HEAVY, so you'd need a substantial engine hoist, etc. I'd do the important hoses, drain the cooling system and flush well, and leave it at that for now: radiator hoses, the PHH, the heater valve hoses and whatever looks suspect. Check for good sealing around the radiator and fill with foam and/or Gorilla tape as doing so will lower water temps several degrees. Consider getting some sort of ScanGauge to closely monitor water temps unless you really enjoy doing head gaskets. Inspect the lines to the rear heater for corrosion. There is also a mod for the instrument panel's water temp gauge that does a much better job of keeping track of water temp that can be done.

A new set of plug wires is a good idea if still original. The front pads wear much faster than the rear and that's OK but make sure you still have good ones and the rotors are running true. The brake system will need a flush unless the service records indicate this has been done. The air filter can be cleaned and reused, but might be wise to just R&R unless the records/inspection suggest otherwise.

The OEM Tokico shocks perform well at a reasonable cost, so easy to do. If the ride is suspect a new set of stock height Old Man Emu coils is useful (likrly cheaper than OEM) and with new shocks will greatly improve the ride unless you plan on lots of extra weight soon. Be sure and juice the mounting bolts, especially on the rear, for a few days prior to working on that to save a lot of grief.

If the power antenna is not working, you can replace just the mast to save a bunch of money. If still not working, check the head unit wiring for correct hookup to make it work.

For the seat not working, Gamaviti offers a solution, just be sure to get the drive screws to run in parallel when fixing those gears.


EDIT: Assess the looks of the balls holding the Birfields on the front axle. Nice and greasy is good, but sloppy drippy greasy is a sign you need to service the whole shebang. In any case, still a good idea to pull and grease the front wheel bearings unless you have service records indicating this was done within the last 30k. And check those knuckle nuts are tight.

Hey Green truck,

Thanks for your comments. Searched but I did not find the mod for the temp gauge improvement. New one for me....do you have a link?

 

[LandLocked93]

I thought only 94 and older had the TOYOTA grills

A close look at the hood, ds front corner...appears to be some 'damage multiplier' damage. This probably led to grill replacement.

OP, what we call a 'damage multiplier' is those cheap bolt-on bull bars that reach above the headlights. In a frontal collision, the entire bar moves back and into other body panels. From the looks of it, perhaps a ds corner collision at some point.

 

[LandLocked93]

Is that wrap covering the fender flare holes? Thought 95+ came with flares regardless?

+1 on the moderate lift with the 35s. If you go OME lift you'll get probably 3"+. But overland weight will bring that back down to 2.5" or so, depending.
W/o axle locks you are probably running 3.74 ratio.
If the engine runs well, you may not need a re-gear immediately.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Again I am not into rock crawling, but clearance is key on some of the trails we run. and I want it to drive well on the hwy too. So I think I will go with 35" tires, now just to figure out the lift, gearing and driveline mods...

The more you modify, the more issues you're likely to encounter.
If you're not into rock crawling, anything over 35s is totally unnecessary.

2" lift and 35s is kind of the sweet spot for these. Once you're into trails that you can't get through with 35s and 2" lift, you're well into rock crawling territory IMO.

You might be surprised where an 80 will go with this sort of build.

2" lift, you'll probably need extended brake lines from frame to diff. Sway bar extensions. Caster correction highly recommended, though lots will tell you it's unnecessary. Maybe need bumpstop extensions, depending on your lift.

Beyond 2" lift, you're more likely to get driveline vibrations. Above 3" of lift, people get vibrations that there no solution to beyond converting to part-time 4x4

 

[texdoc77]

A close look at the hood, ds front corner...appears to be some 'damage multiplier' damage. This probably led to grill replacement.

OP, what we call a 'damage multiplier' is those cheap bolt-on bull bars that reach above the headlights. In a frontal collision, the entire bar moves back and into other body panels. From the looks of it, perhaps a ds corner collision at some point.

Ha! Yes, not sure what the cause of that ding was, perhaps it is as you say. It's funny about the grill, I really like the look of the "retro" Toyota grill and would likely have gone with one if had come with the "T" logo.

 

[texdoc77]

Is that wrap covering the fender flare holes? Thought 95+ came with flares regardless?

It is indeed. There was some "body work" done to smooth out underneath the wrap, but it is still visible. I have not decided entirely what to do with the exterior. The wrap in in decent shape and for now will protect the body. PO says there is some clear coat breakdown on one area of the rear side panel, but the only way to know for sure now is removal of the wrap. If that was the case and the rest of the paint was in good shape I would remove the wrap and add some heritage stripes after getting that panel repainted. White with stripes and black and chrome accents would be a pretty sweet setup and aesthetics are important to me.

+1 on the moderate lift with the 35s. If you go OME lift you'll get probably 3"+. But overland weight will bring that back down to 2.5" or so, depending.

Is there a particular kit you would go with, the BP51's look sweet!

W/o axle locks you are probably running 3.74 ratio.

Thought the diffs were 4.10 factory?

If the engine runs well, you may not need a re-gear immediately.

Good point, possibly would get one before the other.

 

[texdoc77]

Beyond 2" lift, you're more likely to get driveline vibrations. Above 3" of lift, people get vibrations that there no solution to beyond converting to part-time 4x4

I have seen the part time 4-wheel kit and wondered what might be the reason for them. I like the idea of full time 4WD so was curious.

2" lift, you'll probably need extended brake lines from frame to diff. Sway bar extensions. Caster correction highly recommended, though lots will tell you it's unnecessary. Maybe need bumpstop extensions, depending on your lift.

Do you have recommendations for those drive line mods?

You might be surprised where an 80 will go with this sort of build.

I dunno, my son took his F-250 all along the alpine loop and did a great job. That 80 ought to be a billy goat!

2" lift and 35s is kind of the sweet spot for these. Once you're into trails that you can't get through with 35s and 2" lift, you're well into rock crawling territory IMO.

Yes, but there are trails that I would not consider "rock crawling trails" that might have an obstacle or two that would be much easier with a larger tire, but I get your point.

The more you modify, the more issues you're likely to encounter.
If you're not into rock crawling, anything over 35s is totally unnecessary.

Well, maybe but see the point above. Just because your main type of wheeling is not rock crawling doesn't mean you may not come across obstacles where a larger tire wouldn't be more help. Of course this gets a little nuanced and incremental. A 33" tire is really not that much bigger than a 31". A 35" is really not the much bigger than a 33" and so on and so forth. It is also true that larger tires will absorb more obstacles better, but if that is not what you are going for then a one off obstacle may not strain your set up too much. And the positive trade offs are well documented. This may sound like I am being argumentative but really I'm not arguing with your points, but my own mind. Just out loud. On a forum. Anyway I actually agree, but I won't lie the idea of a huge 37 or even 40" tire rolling over all in its wake has a primal appeal to me. Buuuuut I really am too pragmatic and realize that those moments are far and few between. I appreciate the comments, will likely stay with the 35" tire.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yes, but there are trails that I would not consider "rock crawling trails" that might have an obstacle or two that would be much easier with a larger tire, but I get your point.

True, but get familiar with your vehicle's capability before you open a huge can of worms with a 6" lift, 37s

Tires, lift, sliders, winch, lockers in that order.

my daily driver 105 series, 2" lift, 35s, lockers, slders.

Mostly stock with a few inconspicuous mods.

Photos taken on a trip with a buddy in a much more modified cruiser on 37s.
he winched at the same points I did on this trail

 

[mudgudgeon]

I have seen the part time 4-wheel kit and wondered what might be the reason for them. I like the idea of full time 4WD so was curious.

Mostly used to eliminate front drive line vibrations.

Some people will swear it improves fuel economy, because less friction, less mass being rotated etc
but I'm yet to see anyone share good data on before and after fuel consumption

 

[mudgudgeon]

Just because your main type of wheeling is not rock crawling doesn't mean you may not come across obstacles where a larger tire wouldn't be more help

Fit sliders and a winch. You can skull drag a vehicle through/over all sorts of shìt

 

[mudgudgeon]

This may sound like I am being argumentative but really I'm not arguing with your points, but my own mind

Hey, many of us go through the same thoughts.
I'd love to put 37sv on my 80. I don't need them. But hey, why not??

I put big AT tires on my station wagon work shìt box when it needed tires. Makes no sense really, and caused a few problems.
It raises eyebrows all the time