Alternative to OEM hand throttle ? (1 Viewer)

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Outside the box, and probably would take more work than worth, but would be neat to use an older Toyota pull parking brake.
This would be the heavy duty version for sure.
 
@LandCruiserPhil has a write up using a Toro unit that is more durable than the OEM unit. Here is a link to one of the posts:


Broken a couple OEM units POS IMO
My Toro has seen a ton of use without any issues
 
Broken a couple OEM units POS IMO
My Toro has seen a ton of use without any issues
The link is no longer valid. I agree, the oem unit leave a bit to be desired.
 
Lots of super long cable out there. Finding one that is 2’ long or less is proving very difficult. I called to inquire about one from a classic jeep parts site and got voicemail. It appears to work like the in-dash parking brake control found in mini trucks. It’s too bad the oem unit that fits an 80 isn’t built better.
 
I use the hand throttle for my underhood air compressor...gotta keep the R's up for compressor to work properly underload..;)
 
Lots of super long cable out there. Finding one that is 2’ long or less is proving very difficult. I called to inquire about one from a classic jeep parts site and got voicemail. It appears to work like the in-dash parking brake control found in mini trucks. It’s too bad the oem unit that fits an 80 isn’t built better.


I wonder if you could cut it down to size?
 
Yes but it would require absolute precision to cut the cable housing without damaging the cable. Maybe a tubing cutter would be the ticket.
 
Lots of super long cable out there. Finding one that is 2’ long or less is proving very difficult. I called to inquire about one from a classic jeep parts site and got voicemail. It appears to work like the in-dash parking brake control found in mini trucks. It’s too bad the oem unit that fits an 80 isn’t built better.
Sorry I thought you had Fab skills. Pm I can make you one.
 
Sorry I thought you had Fab skills. Pm I can make you one.
Haha, funny. A future stock item?

Meanwhile...yessir, housing is cut-to-fit after sliding the inner wire out of the housing. Housing length needs to be close, but precision is not required.

Use a bicycle barrel adjuster to fine-tune the effective outer housing length. Barrel adjusters are cheap (or free from the old parts bin) from any bike shop, but they only come with one lock nut...get two adjuster assemblies so you end up with two of knurled nuts that will let you double-nut the thing on the factory throttle pedal bracket.

After the housing is sorted out, re-insert the cable and install the cable stop. Adjust cable stop such that it is not quite snug against the slotted fork on the throttle pedal.

Second and third pics below show throttle pedal in closed position, and manual throttle lock in the "do nothing" position (all the way in and not at high idle).

Fourth pic shows how the throttle pedal can be at 100% without interference from the throttle lock. The throttle pedal bracket just slides away from the throttle lock's cable stop as if it weren't there.

01 20201003_191606.jpg
02 20201003_191700.jpg
03 20201003_191945.jpg
04 20201003_192213.jpg
 
Haha, funny. A future stock item?

Meanwhile...yessir, housing is cut-to-fit after sliding the inner wire out of the housing. Housing length needs to be close, but precision is not required.

Use a bicycle barrel adjuster to fine-tune the effective outer housing length. Barrel adjusters are cheap (or free from the old parts bin) from any bike shop, but they only come with one lock nut...get two adjuster assemblies so you end up with two of knurled nuts that will let you double-nut the thing on the factory throttle pedal bracket.

After the housing is sorted out, re-insert the cable and install the cable stop. Adjust cable stop such that it is not quite snug against the slotted fork on the throttle pedal.

Second and third pics below show throttle pedal in closed position, and manual throttle lock in the "do nothing" position (all the way in and not at high idle).

Fourth pic shows how the throttle pedal can be at 100% without interference from the throttle lock. The throttle pedal bracket just slides away from the throttle lock's cable stop as if it weren't there.

View attachment 2455030View attachment 2455031View attachment 2455032View attachment 2455033
Good info
Adjustable barrel is not needed, just make the outer cable longer and it will work fine. It does make for cleaner install underneath the dash though.
 
Not on my 80 but in my old 40 I used a shimano locking hand brake on shifter. Worked beautifully till I sold the 40.
 
Lots of super long cable out there. Finding one that is 2’ long or less is proving very difficult. I called to inquire about one from a classic jeep parts site and got voicemail. It appears to work like the in-dash parking brake control found in mini trucks. It’s too bad the oem unit that fits an 80 isn’t built better.
I wonder if you could cut it down to size?
Another suggestion, go to a boat shop that deals with outboard motors. They have the tools and cable in stock to fab up a cable any lenght you want, (they make up replacement throttle cables for outboard motors) along with an assortment of knobs and cable ends.
 
Grill mount jump start port...how bout a pic of that?
It was April...2018.

A fallen cedar with a stubborn limb shot through the grill as I drove over it's rotting trunk, opening a perfectly sized gap.

It is in this gap the port is nestled. The port consists of an SB175 Andi' plug (red, of course) and an inadequate Chinese cover.
There are many like this arrangement. Mine is just one.
A vendor might say, "That needs a source-side enviro-boot!". And they'd be right.
IMG_20201011_165141249.jpg

It is not fused. (MUD explodes with pierced-brow consternation)






IMG_20201011_165153950.jpg

A dash-switched PAC-PAC 200 handles the energizing duties.
 
It was April...2018.

A fallen cedar with a stubborn limb shot through the grill as I drove over it's rotting trunk, opening a perfectly sized gap.

It is in this gap the port is nestled. The port consists of an SB175 Andi' plug (red, of course) and an inadequate Chinese cover.
There are many like this arrangement. Mine is just one.
A vendor might say, "That needs a source-side enviro-boot!". And they'd be right.
View attachment 2465852
It is not fused. (MUD explodes with pierced-brow consternation)






View attachment 2465856
A dash-switched PAC-PAC 200 handles the energizing duties.
Oh my....
 
I've had my OEM unit for over 15 years and I must have removed the knob on mine enough times to where the barbed feature became useless. Meaning, the knob just slides on/off easily. To combat this issue, I drilled a hole on the flat portion of the cable head (the piece that goes inside the knob) using a Dremmel tiny grinding bit. Once this hole was created, I re-inserted this end back into knob, then using a 1/16" drill bit, drilled a hole through the knob. After this, a simple pin can be used to go through the knob and the cable end. i didn't have a pin this skinny on hand so I used a short piece of mechanical wire and it's been working out fine.

Hope this helps others!
 
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@LandLocked93y my OCD is absolutely RAGING
IMG_20201105_120115428.jpg

It's been there a minute. Just had a break in the schedule to circle back around.
Thank you for everthing you and other vendors do for us sycophants. It goes far beyond just the 'parts' imo. 🙏
 

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