***All fixed*** real time help - should I replace Cam seal and Crank seal? Doing timing belt now (1 Viewer)

[Jczajka]

Resistance came to mind seeing low range of spec on multimeter and when new battery seemd to solve the issue. Fresh battery maybe temporarily masking the issue. Time will tell. I think pressure testing the FP would show its health more effectively.

I hadn't any FP issues, but did have intermittent fuel sender issue giving faulty gauge readings. I pulled and replaced the sender and preventatively changed the fuel pump while I was in there (@195k miles).

Thats stock wiring wrap- its not been repaired as far as I can tell. It has foam under the tape to insulate/protect the wires going into each side of the connector.

I dont see any reason to disconnect that plug to work on the fuel pump. You can remove negative batt cable if your concerned. If you still wish to remove it read on. I just did this a few days ago.

Ok the connector on mine was a Mo-Fo to get apart; you're not alone. Between dirt and sand falling into my eyes and mouth and trying not to break a wire or the mounting tab, I fiddled with it for 10min. Spray it off liberally with some maf or electrical cleaner because small debris or pebbles get lodged under the release tab. Push down the tab and try to walk the connector off, also there are two small nubs on either side of the connector towards the end, these lock the connector into place. You can gently use a pick too to release the connector off the nub and maybe walk the other side off. Just be gentle- its 15+years old and brittle- you dont want to create a new problem.

May the force be with you

HAHA!

I was told, and read in the history that there was a wire repair somewhere, so I thought this may be it. The wire repair may have been at the rear window defroster though, because that was also mentioned.

Not sure what fuel pump was installed, but since it was at a Toyota dealer I assume it was OE.

 

[2001LC]

FSM has us disconnect the fuel pump power at that point under DS rear door, when necessary to shut down fuel pressure. You may want to check resistance of wire in both direction from that point. You may find help info here: Draining Fuel from gas tank?

PS fender under hood

Jumping the fuel pump with 12V battery

Fuel pump disconnect. Clean and spray DW40 or electric contract cleaner. These are a bear to unplug when dirty.

Fuel pump control

 

[abuck99]

FSM has us disconnect the fuel pump power at that point under DS rear door, when necessary to shut down fuel pressure.
Fuel pump disconnect.
View attachment 1976818

I read that in the FSM but I dont see how separating that connector reduces fuel line pressure. In key off condition the circuit should not be energized. What am I missing?

 

[Jczajka]

FSM has us disconnect the fuel pump power at that point under DS rear door, when necessary to shut down fuel pressure. You may want to check resistance of wire in both direction from that point. You may find help info here: Draining Fuel from gas tank?


View attachment 1976816
PS fender under hood
View attachment 1976821

Jumping the fuel pump with 12V battery
View attachment 1976817
Fuel pump disconnect. Clean and spray DW40 or electric contract cleaner. These a are bear to unplug when dirty.
View attachment 1976818

Fuel pump control
View attachment 1976822

I thought the foam and tape on my cable was sign of a repair,until I was corrected that it is OE.

Mine concern is the mention of the resolder and wire repair from the Lexus history and the comment from @abuck99 mentioning that my pump's resistance tested on the low side. I thought the wiring to the pump might be damaged and repaired somewhere.

CORROSION IN REAR HATCH CONNECTOR SHORT TO GROUND OF FUEL PUMP DURING REAR DEFROSTER OPERATION CAUSED STUMBLED. EXCESSIVE/CONSTANT SHORT TO GROUND CAUSED FUEL PUMP TO MALFUNCTION. CLEAN HARNESS AND CONNECTORS OF CORROSION AND APPLY DI-ELECTRIC GREASE

I'm not sure what they repaired. I check the connectors at the defroster and they look good. I need to pull the trim and check the stuff by the jack still.

 

[2001LC]

I read that in the FSM but I dont see how separating that connector reduces fuel line pressure. In key off condition the circuit should not be energized. What am I missing?

Operation like checking for spark with one coil & spark plug out or compression check. The fuel system will not pressurize if no current to it. In my 01 I would just pull the EFI. In newer models like 07, I disconnect where FSM suggest us too. Also, in operating where I'm R&R fuel pump, pulling fuel rail, FPR, etc. Pulling any fuel line I like to crank for a moment. This includes pulling lines off fuel pump. I'll crank engine for a moment to make sure no pressure in line after I cut power to it.

I thought the foam and tape on my cable was sign of a repair,until I was corrected that it is OE.

Mine concern is the mention of the resolder and wire repair from the Lexus history and the comment from @abuck99 mentioning that my pump's resistance tested on the low side. I thought the wiring to the pump might be damaged and repaired somewhere.

CORROSION IN REAR HATCH CONNECTOR SHORT TO GROUND OF FUEL PUMP DURING REAR DEFROSTER OPERATION CAUSED STUMBLED. EXCESSIVE/CONSTANT SHORT TO GROUND CAUSED FUEL PUMP TO MALFUNCTION. CLEAN HARNESS AND CONNECTORS OF CORROSION AND APPLY DI-ELECTRIC GREASE

I'm not sure what they repaired. I check the connectors at the defroster and they look good. I need to pull the trim and check the stuff by the jack still.

Look to see if fuel pump share a common ground. But that's a new one on me.

 

[sean2202]

I've yet to replace crank or cam seal. I've just not seen one leak. If I did see cam seal leak while doing a T-belt job, then I'd replace all 3 seals.

If no leak, I'd not replace any. If I did get a leak between belt jobs. I'd first make sure PCV system and all vacuum hoses in good order. This includes, that air box sealing as it should. It's issue with PCV that builds up pressure in crank , which causes most engines to leak. Using good oil and filter with regular 5K change interval, is also key to avoiding leaks. And never use High Mileage oil, it will damage the seals. If I knew and engine used HM oil, I would replace seals, and pray rear main didn't leak.

If all is in tip top shape, and I did get a leak. I'd add AT-205 re-seal (no other) to the oil, and see if that stop the leak. I any case, it's likely a leak would be very minor and hard to even see if it did develop.

If still noticeably leaking, I may go in and reseal and do early T-belt job. But likely so small I'd just wait until 90K mile or 7 yrs. up.

Always good advice from @2001LC.
Could you enlighten me a little more with your thinking of high mileage oil and extended oil changes damaging the seals? Not intending to get off track on oil analysis of which is better but from my reading and my own research I have found the 2UZ to be very easy on oil. I use Schaeffer 701 supreme and have done oil analysis with Schaeffer and Blackstone labs for about 40k miles now. The recent analysis stated I could go to 12k from 10k which I am hesitant to do just because of what I was brought up on doing 3k religiously. 286k on my 2000 LC with original seals.

On another note of seals, I deal with alot of hydraulic motors and pistons at my work. What I have seen as far as seals leaking is heat, age, possibly fluids as well. The seals seem to get dried out and hardened. The hydraulic motors are usually running around 2500RPM and seals start leaking around 3-4k hours. Thats quite different than what a 100 is running at. Sometimes there is a groove in the shaft where seals ride. Moving the new seal slightly off that can help seal that back up.

Interesting info on the AT-205 re seal. Usually I am not a fan of fix in the bottle but good in an emergency.

 

[2001LC]

HM oil is a petroleum based seal modifier. Which swells rubber seals. This damages the seal. It's actually intended for leaky old engine. Which the 2UZ is not one. Other than our head cover gasket that re-torque correct most times, and oil dipstick O-ring R&R correct, 98-02 PCV grommet R&R corrects. The 2UZ rarely leaks, unless HM oil used. .

More explanation than that you can google, ask Mobil 1 or find chemical engineer to explain.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: I first learned about the pitfalls of using HM form mud. I did call Mobil 1, they confirmed. I also called AT-205, they explained the difference.

 

[04UZJ100]

BTW: I first learned about the pitfalls of using HM form mud. I did call Mobil 1, they confirmed. I also called AT-205, they explained the difference.

how about switching from regular M1 synthetic to another brand? That ok?

 

[2001LC]

how about switching from regular M1 synthetic to another brand? That ok?

Any non HM oil switching should be fine. It should not matter switch form one to another. You con go back and forth synthetic / conventional also.

They issue of oil leaks after switching to any synthetic from conventional. Provided HM oil has not been used. Has to do with gunk build-up on seal, from conventional oil. The gunk leaches out the plasticize. The synthetic oil cleans the seal and only exposes the leaks gunk was clogging. Some AT-205 (plasticize) added second or third oil change, which gives synthetic time to clean the engine/seals. Will soak in better than, and usually recondition seal enough to stop them from leaking.

We are trying to stop or slow leaks in 4.7L, that had used HM oil form more than 2 changes. It's leaking everywhere. We're using Mobil 1 and At-205. We think it's slowed the leaks, but hard to say for sure. As oil is everywhere. We need to clean and watch, before we'll know.

Mobil 1 is top shelf. Mobil 1, Mobil (one shelf below Mobil 1), are division of Exxon Mobil. Most all Toyota lubes if not all, are Exxon Mobil. It's also in most all parts stores, Walmart, etc.. So very easy to get.