Draining Fuel from gas tank? (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

I like to drain most all the fuel (~10 gallons) from my 07 LC fuel tank, anyone know a good trick?

I've a cheap fuel transfer hose, made from clear surgical hose, but can't get hose down into tank. I must have hit the flexible hose near tank (Fuel inlet hose), but can get passed it to fuel in tank with some effort. Getting to bottom of fuel tank is hit and miss.

FSM states we should not run fuel pump more than 10 seconds. I did disconnect fuel line quick connect at filter (fuel rail side). Then let auto crank function of starter determine time pump would run. But quickly realized this could damage starter, as it would need ~100 long auto cranks to get just ~10 gallons.
07 FSM

00 FSM does not show a relay under the hood.

The 05 & 07 LC FSM does not show a drain plug.

The 00 LX & 01 LC FSM shows a fuel tank drain plug.

 

[Deflagrate]

If the newer ones don't have a drain plug, just take out the fuel pump, and siphon it from there. It's pretty easy to access, just need to take out the second row, and roll up the carpet covering it.

 

[2001LC]

That is certain one way, thank you. Although I'd rather avoid that as time consuming and new gasket required.

Interesting too, is my parts guys said no Toyota had a fuel drain plug. But yet the FSM from 98-02 show it.

 

[camino70]

I'm curious why the fsm says not to run for longer than 10 seconds?

Doesn't the fuel pump energize with the key on, not in the starting position? I'd also imagine a jumper somewhere easy to turn the pump on without starter engagement.

 

[2001LC]

FSM states to keep from burning out coil. I was going to jump pump, until I read this.

No, Key ON does not start fuel pump. Pump starts when key turned to start and engine cranking begins.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Have you looked to see if there's a drain plug on yours? My 80 had one, haven't looked on the 100. If it does have one, be ready for a fire sprinkler of gas on that last thread before you pull the plug out.

 

[2001LC]

I did, but with fuel tank cover on. In the older FSM above it looks as if drain can be accessed through or with cover on. As I look at the 07 cover, it has an opening at same point, but no drain plug that I could see on tank. I also called my Toyota parts guy for the drain plug washer/gasket. Which he informed me there is not a one (no drain).

 

[TXLX100]

Easiest way is to access it from the top of the tank. Does it have bad gas in it? If it does, you might try using filling it about 3/4 full and using a couple cans of seafoam, I have had luck with that in the past with cars / boats that have sat too long and have bad gas.

 

[Julian Stead]

Normally you link out the fuel pump relay, make a small fly lead with 2 spade connectors. Done hundreds of cars like this due to wrong fuel being put in. Modern Cars with plastic fuel tanks can distort when you remove the pump, and the tanks are fitted with a anti cyphon fuel neck so this is the easiest way. If the vehicle was fitted without a primer pump in the tank then a new tank would be quoted just incase the tank opening distorted.

 

[2001LC]

Time got away from me, and gas in tank has been sitting since June possible longer IDK. I dumped some sta-bil 360 this week. I don't think it matters, but I carelessly add bit more than recommended. Sta-bil recommends adding to fresh fuel, not old. So only benefit is it won't get worse I suppose. Plus the 360 gives off a gas to protect the parts not submerged.

After bouncing the rig by standing on the rear bumper, to mix. I tapped into quick disconnect engine side to catch some fuel in my can, and to pump some of the Sta-bil through fuel lines.

@Julian Stead I was going to try getting my cyphon hose down the neck again. Are you sure we have the anti cyphon neck here in USA?
It did feel as if I ran into a stop. But after looking at picture above, I may have hung up in ribs of bend of fuel inlet hose.

My plan was to run pump. But my concern (as stated) is the FSM warning not to run pump more than 10 seconds. Up until now that seemed best way to go, but don't need a pump to repair or replace needlessly. Have you done this on the 100 series?

 

[Julian Stead]

I haven't done it on the 100, but the pump runs constant when the engine is running so I cant see why there would be a issue. I would give it a rest at intervals just to be safe, I would be more concerned about fuel storage and the fumes, but I am sure you have planned that out.

Not sure about the US version, but cars in the UK have been fitted with anti cyphon devices for a long time due to fuel theft, this was a major problem in the 80's.

 

[2001LC]

I haven't done it on the 100, but the pump runs constant when the engine is running so I cant see why there would be a issue. I would give it a rest at intervals just to be safe, I would be more concerned about fuel storage and the fumes, but I am sure you have planned that out.

Rather than store, I was just planned on burning off. I've a creek out-back and box of matches Should look cool as match hits fumes, fire following down river. Trees could be issue with all the dead leaves.. Just kidding. I'll pull off a few gallons at a time and burn in other vehicle.

Until this week I thought pump ran once key ON, I now know differently. I also thought pump ran constant during operation. But based on "10 second" statement in FSM, wondering about this now. I suppose FSM concern (burning coil) could have to do with jumping directly at pump. Could it be powering during normal operation through/with the resister connected, protect this so called "coil"?

I've been wonder what this was, now I at least I know what it's called.
07 FSM show relay under the hood.

You say jump at relay; where are you speaking about and which leads?
Generic layout shows relay in back. I know this one is time consuming to get at.

I was thinking I'd jump at disconnect under DS rear door, but not sure which leads here to jumping.
Picture of The Rebaron's fuel disconnect:

Can we jump at fuse box, if so which leads?

 

[Julian Stead]

There is a relay saying F pump, you just bypass this. The relay is just a switch, you just link the switch side and not the coil side. So pull the relay and add a fly(link) lead. You might need to put the ignition on, the wiring diagram will show you what to link out or where if prefered to add a feed.

 

[Julian Stead]

Wiring diagram shows to link pins 3 and 5.

 

[Julian Stead]

Check how many pins are on the relay, the test procedure shows a 4 pin, but the wiring diagram shows a 5 pin.

 

[Skidoo]

I think that 10 second run time is for pump out of the tank. When in the tank the fuel running through it cools it. The page before the one shown with the test, may show removing it.

 

[2001LC]

I think that 10 second run time is for pump out of the tank. When in the tank the fuel running through it cools it. The page before the one shown with the test, may show removing it.

Thanks, make sense "cooling".

Although the test is for sure ON-VEHICEL INSPECTION with pump still in tank, where they give warning about coil. It does not say anything about fuel level in tank. Nor have I found any procedure for removing fuel. You'd think they make some statement, at least in fuel tank removal procedure.

But regardless, if we assume cooling/heat is the issue. Then running for under 10 seconds should be safe as @Julian Stead suggested.
I really was not sure what they meant by "coil" they refer to. I assume it"s the magnet coil like shown in this generic fuel pump.

Wiring diagram shows to link pins 3 and 5.

Check how many pins are on the relay, the test procedure shows a 4 pin, but the wiring diagram shows a 5 pin.

It's too cold out to be working on today, so I'm just going off FSM and pictures on file. Which I've none with f/pump relay out of fuse box.

But, I found the easiest and fastest place to tap into fuel line is at the fuel filter. This is next to fuse box, so jumping near fuel fumes where I tap may be to risky.

If I can jump at fuel "Disconnect" (under DS rear door) I'd have less risk. As I'd be ~8 feet away from engine bay

I found this picture from Snowy that shows the disconnect wire housing block has 8 slots, but only 5 leads.

It's only a guess, but I'd say the top two are my +-. With outside left being +. You see anything in wiring diagram to indicate whats correct?

Edited: 11/29/17 My guess was wrong!

 

[2001LC]

BTW: I did find our USA series 100's don't have anti cyphon block in fuel neck. I was just not getting pass the ribbed fuel inlet hose or in final hole. Once I did, getting my hose into fuel in bottom 1/3 of tank became issue I could not overcome.

 

[Spike555]

Unhook the fuel line from the fuel filter, put a hose on it and run it into a container on the ground outside the truck.
Remove air cleaner cover.
Using starting fluid spray into the intake.
Have a friend start the engine.
Keep engine running with starting fluid until gas tank is empty.
Fuel pump will continue to run until the engine quits.
No running the engine on starting fluid will not hurt anything.

Why are you needing to empty the tank?

 

[2001LC]

Unhook the fuel line from the fuel filter, put a hose on it and run it into a container on the ground outside the truck.
Remove air cleaner cover.
Using starting fluid spray into the intake.
Have a friend start the engine.
Keep engine running with starting fluid until gas tank is empty.
Fuel pump will continue to run until the engine quits.
No running the engine on starting fluid will not hurt anything.

Why are you needing to empty the tank?

Have you ever tried running a 2UZ-fe in this manner?

Fuel is from unknown source, and has been sitting in tank ~6 months or more. I'd like to remove a few gallons at a time until empty, to get all water out of tank. This is to prepare for engine swap, where I don't want to deal with bad gas on start-up in used engine of unknown condition.

@Julian Stead brought up the point of storage. By pulling off only a few gallons at a time I can safely & quickly burn-off in other vehicle.