Air Lift 1000 Install (1 Viewer)

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Thanks to this thread, added bags under mine and it handled some extra weight just fine.

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Very interesting thread. My LX has just over 130k miles and the AHC has been fine, but I’m starting to build it up and I don’t know if it will be able to support the extra weight for much longer.

I think the AHC system is wonderful and I want to do everything I can to maintain it. It seems like people are getting some good results by using OEM 80 rear springs and non-AHC torsion bars. I’ve been thinking of doing that and a shock absorber refresh. The alternative is to add these airbags in the rear. Any other AHC-equipped owners go through something similar?
 
I like how my cruiser sits around town, but when loaded with 2 adults,3 kids, cooler, recovery gear and dog its dekar'd. I have entertained the 30 mm spacers in the rear but then won't be able to fit in the garage. If I go this route and keep them at 0 pressure and when doing a weekender etc. put some air in them, or do you just keep a low volume in them all of the time, then increase with load?

You can see how it sits mostly loaded (no extra water/fuel or spare parts).


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Thanks,

is the 60744 still the correct one?

I see the following being advertised for cruisers on eBay.

 
As far as I know, the 60728 is the correct set for an unlifted 100. That's what I have.

The manufacturer recommends leaving 5 psi in the bags at all times. I think it keeps the bags stationary in the spring to avoid damage and to act as a bump stop.

Chris
 
I may have looked over this in the thread, but worth asking:

Anyone running these in a set of Tough Dog gold coil springs (or any wider upgraded springs)? What size is recommended? Running 22.5-23" hub to fender in the rear.
 
I did the install and replaced the OEM rear shocks at the same time. 22mm ratcheting wrench is crucial. With little to no air in the bags the rig is sitting about an inch higher. Would the new shocks do that or do the springs need to settle again?

I did some different routing and placement for the valves.

P/O had jammed into something and put a big hole in the rear bumper, and the cover is broken in several lower mounting places. I had previously somewhat smoothed it out with the heat gun. I thought I would just cover it with a homemade brushed SS plate and put the valves through the rear bumper. Not for everyone I know but it fixed an eyesore for me and the valves are super easy to get to with the OBA.

I miss-drilled one of the holes so I will probably make a 2nd plate, but you get the idea. Maybe a matching one on the other side with an air chuck quick connect.

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Routing through the frame

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This is what it looked like before.

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I thought the same and I am pretty sure that everything is seated well. Do the coils need to be rotated a specific way in the buckets? Didn't seem like it to me. For comparison here is the old shocks and the new.


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A little lunch time shakedown and everything seems to be working great. Took on the highway for 5-10 miles then the dirt for another 5-10.

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True level stance. Although it doesn't look like it. The driveway curves but it makes it look like it goes up.

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Could be you just needed some time for the (coil) springs to settle in again? I am always a slight bit taller just after putting load back on the suspension.

I'll be installing my bags this weekend. A brand new step-bit just arrived in the mail today and we're ready to roll. Still debating where I want to stick the valves at.
 
Thanks kind of thinking so. Tagged the trim on the garage last night but not today. Good luck, articulating the suspension is pretty simple if you do it right. Step bit made quick work of increasing the hole size. A right hand drill helped as well. If you have not gotten some yet 6 ton jack stands are well worth the investment.

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Thanks kind of thinking so. Tagged the trim on the garage last night but not today. Good luck, articulating the suspension is pretty simple if you do it right. Step bit made quick work of increasing the hole size. A right hand drill helped as well. If you have not gotten some yet 6 ton jack stands are well worth the investment.

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How big did you end up going on the hole size? I'm on my third go round to get the hole big enough to keep from pinching the bag nipple. Currently hole size is 1" but I need to either go bigger or take a die grinder to a section to make it oblong.
 
How big did you end up going on the hole size? I'm on my third go round to get the hole big enough to keep from pinching the bag nipple. Currently hole size is 1" but I need to either go bigger or take a die grinder to a section to make it oblong.

I went to 1 1/4".
 
How big did you end up going on the hole size? I'm on my third go round to get the hole big enough to keep from pinching the bag nipple. Currently hole size is 1" but I need to either go bigger or take a die grinder to a section to make it oblong.

If you're worried about the hole pinching the bag nipple you could probably install a rubber grommet in the hole as additional protection. Not this exact one, but you get the idea: Amazon product ASIN B000BO9DSA
 
I am looking at lengthening the air hose for one rear air bag. What specific hose is required? Is there a type pf hose that would work that can be bought by the foot or must it specifically be air pressure hose? Thanks
 
I've had my bags in the back for over two years now. Zero maintenance issues so far and very little or no leakage. Initially, I checked the pressure every month but now I do so every third month. I rarely have to top up with air. Day to day I have them at ~10 psi and air up to about 25 when the RTT and all the camping gear is in the back. My air line is run up next to my fuel filler behind the fuel door.
 

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