Tjm Air compressor install for Pro Lockers (1 Viewer)

[obe12]

Howdy,

I am working on a project to install TJM air compressor / with OEM locker switch.

Phase 1. Install compressor under hood and wire compressor

Phase 2. Remove diffs and install lockers

Phase 3. Install airlines to each locker


Phase 1, here are some pics of my using existing holes in my fender wheels. Except drill just one… the mission unitized existing holes and create a mounting. Here is my solution.. for the mounting.

 

[obe12]

Howdy,

I am working on a project to install TJM air compressor / with OEM locker switch.

Phase 1. Install compressor under hood and wire compressor

Phase 2. Remove diffs and install lockers

Phase 3. Install airlines to each locker


Phase 1, here are some pics of my using existing holes in my fender wheels. Except drill just one… the mission unitized existing holes and create a mounting. Here is my solution.. for the mounting.

View attachment 3408729

View attachment 3408731

View attachment 3408732

View attachment 3408733

Just an update on the process

Mount completed, side job diverted my attention to new R series Alpine 6 channel amp with S series new style speaker try and use oem sun for now, or disconnect it. Got the amp done, oem sun crossed over just enough to keep vocals out. Measure sub speakers resistance 2.4 ohms. Kewl amp will like that. If the speakers can handle the amp. Started out gain turned down on sub, and eventually made it in the middle as the front and rear . With it crossed over and filters to Vocals out it doesn’t crackle or distort. Yeah for now. Setup front speakers levels and amazingly sounds fantastic full range Jazz / smooth jazz instrumental and old 70-80-90 rock. My Kenwood E…. Series head unit has adjustable listening area, built in x over to each front, rear, and sub channels. 75 rms per channel on front and rear real chose to match speakers.

So after amp install and firewall penetrations for Batt lead and compressor control moves one to compressor working outside and amp lead.

Did heavy lead to 100 amp circuit resettable breaker in firewall and insulated isolated lead to breaker. This needs to not short out between battery and circuit breaker. With y off this lead my choose to have the circuit breaker away from battery and take the risk I can keep the lead isolated.

The compressor has two 40 amp fuses ans needed 8 gauge wire from power source to compressor and keep distance without around 10 feet give or take.

I made my own lengths of wire and crimped each end. Then shrink rapped each end.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Nice, clean install!

 

[obe12]

Just an update on the process

Mount completed, side job diverted my attention to new R series Alpine 6 channel amp with S series new style speaker try and use oem sun for now, or disconnect it. Got the amp done, oem sun crossed over just enough to keep vocals out. Measure sub speakers resistance 2.4 ohms. Kewl amp will like that. If the speakers can handle the amp. Started out gain turned down on sub, and eventually made it in the middle as the front and rear . With it crossed over and filters to Vocals out it doesn’t crackle or distort. Yeah for now. Setup front speakers levels and amazingly sounds fantastic full range Jazz / smooth jazz instrumental and old 70-80-90 rock. My Kenwood E…. Series head unit has adjustable listening area, built in x over to each front, rear, and sub channels. 75 rms per channel on front and rear real chose to match speakers.

So after amp install and firewall penetrations for Batt lead and compressor control moves one to compressor working outside and amp lead.

Did heavy lead to 100 amp circuit resettable breaker in firewall and insulated isolated lead to breaker. This needs to not short out between battery and circuit breaker. With y off this lead my choose to have the circuit breaker away from battery and take the risk I can keep the lead isolated.

The compressor has two 40 amp fuses ans needed 8 gauge wire from power source to compressor and keep distance without around 10 feet give or take.

I made my own lengths of wire and crimped each end. Then shrink rapped each end.

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Inside wiring to go…

I bought Cruisers in Utah electric dif oem control switch. I would imagine it can handle 5 amps continuous load . I measured the load of two solenoids , two relays to power two compressors and all fell below 1.6 amps. The oem switch should be able to handle the control.

I am looking for a OEM plug for this switch unless the LC 99 year is pre wired for this switch. Who knows I cross that bridge soon enough.

If someone knows wheee to get this plug I would appreciate it .

Thanks

Tex

 

[obe12]

Inside wiring to go…

I bought Cruisers in Utah electric dif oem control switch. I would imagine it can handle 5 amps continuous load . I measured the load of two solenoids , two relays to power two compressors and all fell below 1.6 amps. The oem switch should be able to handle the control.

I am looking for a OEM plug for this switch unless the LC 99 year is pre wired for this switch. Who knows I cross that bridge soon enough.

If someone knows wheee to get this plug I would appreciate it .

Thanks

Tex

Well plug is tied up behind ! Yea!

 

[obe12]

Well plug is tied up behind ! Yea!

A follow up,

My harness only needs power to activate the solenoids to run the compressor , red wire
Power to activate Each locker solenoid Green ans Yellow .

Switch power in , first position rear locker and second position powers both rear and front.

So, I cut two factory wires at switch to oem lockers not installed, left the one vehicle power wire to switch, jump rear locker solenoid and compressor on wire together and tied to rear out wire of switch. Connect front locker solenoid wire to front wire from switch.


Turn switch 1st position compressor turns on, and rear locker solenoid is powered , switch in 2nd position both locker solenoids and compressor relays are power , Key on

Simple , effective .. looks OEM.

I may put a override switch to command the compressor on but at this time don’t see the need .

 

[obe12]

Phase 2, I started today. Pulled outer front hubs, tires, knuckles, axles and dropped the front differential. Measured backlash before tear down 4-6 tho and wear pattern looks good.

Being part time now, bearing look fantastic, clean and reuse them. No more than I use actual 4x4 they last a long time. Replace the seal and if needed crush sleeve. Diff oil still clear….

So tokorrow clean and transfer the ring gear over to the locker. Replace the seal and set the pinion drag used bearings. See how it goes together.

 

[obe12]

Phase 2 in the works.

New pinion seal, old bearings, new Pro Locker …

Pro locker provided shims to put between oem shim and housing.

The lockers is maybe a little narrower than the oem carrier therefore these shims will be used.

Ok, ring side had the with thicker shim and thinner in opposite side needs shims to preload the bearings. Instructions say measure this clearance with feeler gauge. That just take up the space but adds no preload.

Back lash to tight .003 no good

So swapped oem shims and shimmed the feeler gauze to start. .040 mm

.003 back lash again.

Remove .003 shim from stack ring side and put other side. 004 like was when I took it apart, to .007 at the most.

Grease shims to stay in case , install oem shims and preload .0015 preload a side

Set the shims in case with grease, grease bearings,
And races, and aligned tap in gently, with block
Of wood and hammer Each side to get the caps installed and hand tightened then to draw the bearings races in position.

Recheck backlash, same good …

Paint ring and create drag on the ring, and turn pinion through and back

Check pattern. Same as the old worn one.

Now, preload in pinion was less then manual used bearings. Impact tight with 3 bond in yoke splines to a drag of 4.5-7 inch pounds. Old crush sleeve worked fine.

Ideal of crush sleeve to keep same torque on nut as it crushes, and adds appropriate drag. If over crush, have to start over new crush sleeve.

 

[obe12]

Drill hole in outer cover, mount actuator,
Route air line through cover. Air leak test and install to go.

 

[bigwavedave25]

This is great, thank you for sharing. Knowing it was bigger than the ARB dual, I was curious how well the TJM compressor would fit in that spot. Thanks for documenting this!

Probably not enough room for a 2nd battery and the TJM, you think?

 

[obe12]

This is great, thank you for sharing. Knowing it was bigger than the ARB dual, I was curious how well the TJM compressor would fit in that spot. Thanks for documenting this!

Probably not enough room for a 2nd battery and the TJM, you think?

Unknown , the battery try size , and size of battery of corse. Next sheet metal guy could fab a tray or maybe mode one. I was looking for OEM holes and drill little as possible to install. Maybe in time a second battery might be the ticket. Just now I don’t see the need yet.

Ok, locker actuator .. now I am using a blower slipped over the metal line to test the actuator, not regulated air pressure and a sealed line, not yet.
Simple and effective easy to service in the future…
Heavy duty built. Kinda built on the Ox locker design, and a little less design in actuator fork.
One basic o ring piston inside to leak. If removal cover do not have to pull axles to service the air system. Unless an entire third member chunk had to be removed.

I see more reliability than its competitors but time will tell.

Name and sells support not what the competition is. They also use freaking heavy reinforced hose to the axle, and mid way convert to air line. This is smart if your axle is moving and brush snags it. Like triple wall push lock hose on barbed fittings.

Some thought went into the design, and from the Aussies. We will see how “they” hold up. My other friends aka 20 years ago now, had air lockers and we meet up 1000 miles from home. They seemed to have trouble. I ran full Detroit in my Yota pickup and didn’t. But no air ! Pick your poison.

Yes I know, I have run —- for YEARs and never had problems! Ok, good for you. I known a group of 40 at our get togethers in Moab that would argue differently. I didn’t want want a seals that rotates as I drove my truck daily, and fail when I desired to use it the 5% of the time I drive it and need it. Because I don’t live near a place needing lockers except on a trip.

The one external actuator mounted on this bracket moves the ring via fork to lock under air pressure and air removed spring pushed back to unlock.

 

[obe12]

Just an update, phase 2.

Drilled hole in cover and tapped British 1/4 parallel thread, 7/16 drill size before tapping. Fitting with two nuts / two washers screwed through the cover with washers and nuts in both sides. I used 3 bond to seal the threads and fitting through the cover. This fitting allows copper tube to be pushed through the fitting and copper piped cut down. Two orings slip over the copper tube and another fitting screws into the fitting in the cover to seal the copper pipe to fittings / air hose.

Connected the hose, to the fitting and installed a regulator with pressure gauge ans valve. Pressurized the line and it held no leaks.

 

[obe12]

Just an update, phase 2.

Drilled hole in cover and tapped British 1/4 parallel thread, 7/16 drill size before tapping. Fitting with two nuts / two washers screwed through the cover with washers and nuts in both sides. I used 3 bond to seal the threads and fitting through the cover. This fitting allows copper tube to be pushed through the fitting and copper piped cut down. Two orings slip over the copper tube and another fitting screws into the fitting in the cover to seal the copper pipe to fittings / air hose.

Connected the hose, to the fitting and installed a regulator with pressure gauge ans valve. Pressurized the line and it held no leaks.

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View attachment 3422807

View attachment 3422808

Update,

This fitting needed to be stewed in all the way and still allow a 5/8 wrench to tighten the jam nut. Thinner the better on thickness of wrench. I am running a differential drop and this fitting with the next fitting directly interfered with main cross member. I took the 90 degree fitting to this and shorten the thread length to keep it tuck up closer to dif. This only allows 3/16 ish clearance. As the dif moves about it bushing pulling forward this clearance would open up, back up under load to front it would close up. Potentially it could break the fitting. So note, if a diff drop move hole center up ! I moved mine down thinking engine oil pan ect clearance issues… I over thought it. I adapted by cutting the 90 degree fitting shorter. This fitting also bottoms against two orings on the tube to seal. This needs to happen ans be clocked the correct position to utilize the hose barbed fitting for a hose instead of line. This is stronger and more reliable than an airline in a tight area. To be clear the 90 degree fitting screws into the base that contains the tube and two orings. This fitting bottom pushes against the orings to seal. So if you need to Reclock the fitting the untire base fitting has to be reclocked.

Can’t just keep tightening or loosen to reclock the 90 fitting. These are 1/8 British parallel fittings not typical us pipe. After cutting the fitting shorter, I has to hand file the threads end to start , and smooth the end to tighten against the orings to seal. The tube will slide inside the 90 center.

I was busy ans didn’t take pics. Trying to work past my self created problem. Without a dif drop mount you have no issues at all. They provide a splash shield to replace the shield that was removed to install this bulkhead fitting. The splash shield is for the vent.

 

[obe12]

Update,

This fitting needed to be stewed in all the way and still allow a 5/8 wrench to tighten the jam nut. Thinner the better on thickness of wrench. I am running a differential drop and this fitting with the next fitting directly interfered with main cross member. I took the 90 degree fitting to this and shorten the thread length to keep it tuck up closer to dif. This only allows 3/16 ish clearance. As the dif moves about it bushing pulling forward this clearance would open up, back up under load to front it would close up. Potentially it could break the fitting. So note, if a diff drop move hole center up ! I moved mine down thinking engine oil pan ect clearance issues… I over thought it. I adapted by cutting the 90 degree fitting shorter. This fitting also bottoms against two orings on the tube to seal. This needs to happen ans be clocked the correct position to utilize the hose barbed fitting for a hose instead of line. This is stronger and more reliable than an airline in a tight area. To be clear the 90 degree fitting screws into the base that contains the tube and two orings. This fitting bottom pushes against the orings to seal. So if you need to Reclock the fitting the untire base fitting has to be reclocked.

Can’t just keep tightening or loosen to reclock the 90 fitting. These are 1/8 British parallel fittings not typical us pipe. After cutting the fitting shorter, I has to hand file the threads end to start , and smooth the end to tighten against the orings to seal. The tube will slide inside the 90 center.

I was busy ans didn’t take pics. Trying to work past my self created problem. Without a dif drop mount you have no issues at all. They provide a splash shield to replace the shield that was removed to install this bulkhead fitting. The splash shield is for the vent.

I did have a pic just can’t see the opening of the 90 degree fitting

Before the changes. By screwing the bulkhead fitting in and shortening the 90 threads I moved it a lot . The space between the jam 5/8 nut to 11/16 bulkhead is wide here. I shorted that plus cut the treaded portion and if the 90 down.