Air Lift 1000 Install

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Feb 10, 2002
Canton, Mississippi
After I leveled out my stock suspension with a torsion bar tweak, I found that any load, even the smallest really squatted the ass of my 100 to an unacceptable level. Of course, that is one of the reasons for the factory stinkbug take a load and not squat so badly.

I had two choices, Air Bags or OME rear lift springs.

I chose the air bags over the heavier duty springs because I did not want more lift or to go back to the daily stinkbug look.

Doing an Air Lift install is dead simple. This is a :banana: job and the results for the money are outstanding.

I bought the kit for $85 shipped here:

1991-2006 Toyota Land Cruiser - "Air Lift 1000" Air Helper Springs [REAR] - 60728 | $85.16

Install is a snap. I jacked up the entire rear of the truck until the tires were right about to clear the ground and placed jackstands under the rear class 3 hitch bar.

Next, I jacked up one side of the axle near the tire and pulled the tire, then the bottom shock bolt and finally the sway bar nut/bolt.

Next, Let the axle down completely and pull out spring from the bottom.

Remove and toss the rear bumpstop with 12mm and long extension. Bolt is in the center of the bumpstop.

Now, get a 3/4 step-bit (huge help) and drill out bottom spring perch to 3/4" Make sure the hole is nice and smooth. Some people line the hole to keep from Chafing if you flex your truck out a lot. I have run these before in an 80 and I did not have problems with chafing so I did not line the hole.

Stuff the air bags in the springs from the top and attach the air hose. Feed hose through hole in perch then reinstall the spring.

Rebolt the shock and sway bar and put the tire back on.

Repeat on other side.
Make sure you watch the hose and bag when you put the weight back on the truck so the bags and hoses are seated in the bottom.

You can run the hoses to a T and one fill valve or fill each side separately. I chose to do each separately.

I ran hoses through bottom spring perch, to the sway bar bracket and then through the frame to the back of the bumper. I drilled through the bumper right by class 3 hitch on each side.

Pictured is 20 psi in the bags with no load. The rear is up 1" from normal ride height. I shot it up to 50 psi and it lifted the unloaded truck 2"
I usually tow my RZR-4 or my pop-up camper with the 100 so my loads are pretty light.

As you can see in the first picture, the truck squats pretty bad with only 150-200# of tongue weight. I can modulate it some with the law mower or RZR with where I position it on the trailer, but with the pop-up, it is what it is.

I towed 1 hour one way without the bags and then installed the bags and towed back.

After the load, the bags read 22# and it did not squat at all from unloaded.

I really liked the way the truck handled with the air bags versus without.

I even drove the truck back to the camper 1 hour with 20# in the bags with no load. I did not notice the ride being much different. Maybe a bit stiffer.

Overall, this is a kick ass mod for anyone and it is cheap. You might not need them but once a year, but at $85 it is nice to have them when you need them.
Nice. Any pics of the bottom where the air nozzle comes out of the bag? I'm worried about having something hit it when trail riding. I know the firestone bags have the air nozzle at the top of the bags. I badly need airbags because the LC's stock springs do not like pulling a trialer with my ranger. I can feel the fronts losing traction when driving down dirt roads.

I used 1/4" ID rubber fuel hose and ran the AirLift air hose through that so that the air line was protected right up to the AirLift bag. Cheap insurance.

I have OME 864 springs but still need the extra support when towing. If you're towing and/or significantly changing the rear cargo load then I believe they're the best bang for the buck for variable rear loads regardless if you have OEM, OME or ? springs.
This is a good thread for the FAQ.

Anybody have the airbag part numbers for 2" lifted 100's?
This is a good thread for the FAQ.

Anybody have the airbag part numbers for 2" lifted 100's?

I think mine are Air Lift #60755 but can't seem to find the receipt. Augie posted this Air Lift # up years ago and I'm fairly certain I used the same. AFAIK Christo sells these too.
I bought the generic kit for stock 80's (which is the same as this kit) back when I ran them on my lifted 80. There may be a longer bag, but I know this one would work.

I added 50psi just for giggles and it raised the truck 2". 20 psi was 1" (unloaded)
Nice. Any pics of the bottom where the air nozzle comes out of the bag? I'm worried about having something hit it when trail riding.

The nozzle itself is very protected by the spring perch.

Protecting the hose if you use your truck a lot off road will be a good idea.

Mine is a road king so I will report back any problems I have damaging the hose with just regular use.

My wife took mine to the airport so I can't get shots for a week.
I have run the same bags for several years with great results but I found it necessary to go larger in dia. and elongate the holes to avoid damage to the hose and connection.

^^ This. I am running 2" longer bags with OEM springs, 30mm spacers, and no rubber bumper. Even still, at low pressures, the bag can/will move up and down with the spring as it flexes. The biggest problem is on droop, where the bag can potentially stay at the top of the spring. Hose gets "pulled" up inside the coil to compensate. But when the spring compressess again, the hose needs to easily pass through the hole. I've found the passenger's side to be easy, but the DS is a little more troublesome because the air hose can't exit out the bottom of the spring perch quite vertically, as it can on the PS due to all the track bar mounting crap in the way. So it has to enter the spring perch kinda sideways on the DS. Good reason to make that hole big, long, and smooth on that side. I had some ashphalt wire loom (1/4" ID) that I tried on the DS, but it kept hanging up on the hole in the spring perch and moving back down the line, so I took it off.

BTW, I ordered a Firestone kit, and it showed up with the red Air Lift bags. I first followed the Firestone instructions to run the air lines through the top. That sucked. The holes are not nearly big enough to allow free movement of the air line during any articulation. Also, the 100's exhaust proximity makes you route away from the exhaust as much as possible to avoid melting the air lines. I just put the above-mentioned loom around the air lines on the PS from spring perch to the diff, and actually run my PS line all the way across the axle now and back down the DS frame rail, then across to the PS bumper cross member to where it exits. But no more melted air lines. Maybe I'm the only one?


more reading...
hmm, I might go with the airlift springs through the bottom. i didn't think about heat issues with the exhaust.
I tried the Firestone's first and the air hoses would get bound up in the bolt hole at the top and pull out of the bags. The AirLifts have worked flawlessly. I T'ed mine on the axle to one port and ran it along the brake line, up over the frame and then inside the truck to a spot above the rear A/C unit. Then I know it never gets cruddy and I don't have to bend down to air it up. I also have on board air with a hose in the storage compartment on the same side. It is easy to clear the exhaust with some well placed electrical ties.

If you are concerned about the lifted trucks, leave part of the rubber bump stops in place above the bag. They can be cut down to whatever height you want.
How well does this work with AHC? Seems like the AHC would have trouble compensating for the air bags?

And what compressor are you all running? It's an $85 upgrade but then you have to install a compressor too no?

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