Again: Check your Knuckle-Nuts ;-) (3 Viewers)

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I’d just drop the arm and coax the threaded section out. Unless you need an axle rebuild.
I don't, so I'd definitely rather avoid it, if I can. I've never once succeeded to remove a broken bolt with an easy-out, but something like that sounds a hell of a lot cheaper than a full rebuild just to replace a stud.
 
It’s definitely worth a try to get it out from the bottom.

There no cost in removing the knuckle just the work if everything is in good condition just lay it all on clean cardboard cover it with clean paper towels then reassemble once you get the rest of the stud out.

If that stud snapped that means the rest are probably compromised I would replace all of them.
 
It’s definitely worth a try to get it out from the bottom.

There no cost in removing the knuckle just the work if everything is in good condition just lay it all on clean cardboard cover it with clean paper towels then reassemble once you get the rest of the stud out.

If that stud snapped that means the rest are probably compromised I would replace all of them.
I will try. Thank you both for the advice! Does the arm need to come off completely, or just dropped from the knuckle by the remaining three nuts?

I am going to do all eight studs, since it appears that the other seven should be able to be swapped without further disassembly. @landtank your site says you're out of stock on the cone washers... getting any more in the near future?
 
You should be able to just drop the arm down it will need to come off the knuckle all the way but you can leave it hanging from tie rod / drag link

Cruiser outfitters will have the cone washers if LandTank is out of stock and they ship fast !
Usually same or next day.
 
I’ve had a few of these studs shear like that and the stubs turned right out. Take a really small blade screwdriver and try pushing at the edges.
It's honestly weird how often that will happen with snapped studs and screws. Or as soon as you get a little grip on it with a left-handed drill bit it spins right out. Like, "Well, what was the problem a minute ago?"
 
I succeeded in removing the stub by dropping the arm. I installed new ARPs. Easy outs, as always, were completely worthless. I drilled two small holes in the face to make a slot for a big screwdriver, and turned it out. Thats cliffs notes... it took me 3 hours and half the toolbox.

It was getting late anyway, so I threw in the towel when I couldn't get the steering arm back over the studs. Is there a trick to this, or is it just a "fight it til it loses" kind of thing?

Thanks to all who helped so far. I sincerely appreciate it!
 
Are you lining up the pin on the arm with the bearing on the bottom of the steering ball ? You may need to pull the knuckle to you a little to get the pin to line up.

If that’s not the issue ( I think it is ) then you can tap it in gently with a rubber mallet.

Good job getting the broken stud out.
 
Are you lining up the pin on the arm with the bearing on the bottom of the steering ball ? You may need to pull the knuckle to you a little to get the pin to line up.

If that’s not the issue ( I think it is ) then you can tap it in gently with a rubber mallet.

Good job getting the broken stud out.
Yeah, trying to get that lined up. I haven't managed to get it to line up in my half-hearted first tries. Its like it won't pull out far enough/the rotor splash shield is in the way.
 
Yeah, trying to get that lined up. I haven't managed to get it to line up in my half-hearted first tries. Its like it won't pull out far enough/the rotor splash shield is in the way.
It should all be moving together.

I would remove the wipers on the inside of the knuckle.
Just let the felt hang on the axle housing.

I sure that’s keeping the knuckle from moving freely

Plus with everything on there there’s more weight to deal with.
 
The tie rod and or the drag link may be fighting you as well it you left then attached the steering arm.
 
I'm definitely fighting the tie rods. I'll try some more manhandling first. Are those castle nuts reusable?
Yes.

Remember the bearings are not in a vertical plane the lower one is farther out.

Your local Autozone will have a free tie rod puller with a deposit.

The deposit is equal the cost of the tool so that if you want to keep it they don’t care and it comes in a case that you don’t get if you just buy the tool.
I liked the puller enough that I just kept it.
 

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